The control arms are only fully tightened with the car lowered on the ground. I'm sure there is also a specification for X pounds in the driver set and a full tank of gas. If you tighten the control arms with the wheels off the ground, you have now tightened it all in a geometry that isn't "normal". And, it will fail quickly by damaging the bushing.

 

you placed a jack under the rotor??
best way is to install the control arms and leave the fasteners slightly loose, then drive front wheels onto ramps, and then tighten the control arm bushings.

 

Are you sure you didn't scratch/dent/damage the rotor with the jack?
If you did, it will bang/clank/scrap/thump as that spot on the rotor rotates and hits the brake pads...

I know it is too late now, but it's best to lift the suspension by the underside of the outer control arms and hub. I can't think of any other reason why there would be clanking.

Ooops! Yes I can! Check to make sure you didn't bend the rotors splash shield while jacking. It is easily pushed into contact with the rotor. You'll have to check both driver and passenger sides to see which is touching the rotor (or maybe its both).
This is probably the clanking sound, as the rotors should be tough enough to withstand minor jacking (still not recommended though).

Let me brainstorm a bit further on what that thumping could be...

 

For me the bushing vs Control Arm issue boils to the fact that it's easier to just
remove and replace the whole arm. Control Arms are relatively inexpensive so I don't go through the hassle and renting tools to press the old bushings out and the new ones in.

I just replace the whole arm and be done with it.

However, if you prefer the savings of just doing bushings only, there's no problem with that. Just be certain that your current control arms are straight and true, not bent.

 

Good advice!