LED H7 vs Halogen H7
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My Ride: 2008 550i 6-spd; 2007 530i Sport
Model Year: 2008
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I recently swapped out the small bulb at the bottom of the light assembly on my 2007 530i that lights up the angel eye rings with white LED bulbs. Everything appeared normal after that.
Then since the halogen H7 bulbs were looking very yellow and dim, I swapped them out for a pair of bright white LED H7 bulbs. However I now have the blinking green light at the "auto" position on my light switch telling me my adaptive headlights are not functioning properly.
Is this likely the result of the H7 LED bulb swap? Do I need to go back to halogen bulbs? If I need to go with the halogen bulbs, can anyone recommend a brighter, whiter H7 bulb?
Can I use Xenon H7 bulbs?
Thanks
Then since the halogen H7 bulbs were looking very yellow and dim, I swapped them out for a pair of bright white LED H7 bulbs. However I now have the blinking green light at the "auto" position on my light switch telling me my adaptive headlights are not functioning properly.
Is this likely the result of the H7 LED bulb swap? Do I need to go back to halogen bulbs? If I need to go with the halogen bulbs, can anyone recommend a brighter, whiter H7 bulb?
Can I use Xenon H7 bulbs?
Thanks
Last edited by ZeroDfx; 09-20-2023 at 12:32 PM.
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My Ride: 2008 550i 6-spd; 2007 530i Sport
Model Year: 2008
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Well, it doesn't seem to be bulb related. I put the halogen bulbs back in and I still have the flashing green light telling me the adaptive headlight function is not working. I'm beginning to think IO may have disturbed something while I was wrestling the light assemblies out and back into the car. If anyone has any experience with this, I'd very much appreciate your insights.
Thank you
Thank you
#3
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These headlights are notorious for having degraded insulation, and it is quite possible that the mech disturbed the delicate balance inside the headlight and caused a short / disconnect. I'd just pull 'em out and open up the back and see if that's the case (or maybe spot anything else obvious). Pulling the headlights isn't at all difficult - a lot easier than trying to contort and look in the back, though you could try using a smartphone to at least try to get a peek inside without resorting to tools...
Generally replacing a (high current) halogen headlight bulb with a (low current) LED bulb will cause a "burnt out light" warning (the ones I used in my current car had an included resistor that makes the current draw similar to the original halogen bulbs).
Generally replacing a (high current) halogen headlight bulb with a (low current) LED bulb will cause a "burnt out light" warning (the ones I used in my current car had an included resistor that makes the current draw similar to the original halogen bulbs).
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Thanks habbyguy for your thoughts on this.
The insulation definitely degraded and flaked to the point where I believed it was shorting and not allowing the replacement bulb on the passenger side to light for a bit. I had to take it back out and coat the bare wires with some silicone caulk to insulate it, then reinstall the bulb; after that it came back on.
Are you thinking there is wiring within the lights that could be shorting the adaptive headlight feature also? If so, would one side cause the whole system to malfunction? Or would it have to be both? Not a lot of working space in that opening to be messing with wiring.
The insulation definitely degraded and flaked to the point where I believed it was shorting and not allowing the replacement bulb on the passenger side to light for a bit. I had to take it back out and coat the bare wires with some silicone caulk to insulate it, then reinstall the bulb; after that it came back on.
Are you thinking there is wiring within the lights that could be shorting the adaptive headlight feature also? If so, would one side cause the whole system to malfunction? Or would it have to be both? Not a lot of working space in that opening to be messing with wiring.
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#6
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Yes, I do think that some shorted wires inside would prevent the adaptive feature(s) from working properly, and I have no problem believing a problem on one side could affect both.
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OK i guess I'll have to pull both light assemblies for the tenth time and go over all the wiring in both DRL/H7 bulb housings. I'm a little worried that the more I get in there, the greater the potential I will create more flaking insulation issues, but I have no choice if I want to get the adaptive feature working again.
Can I assume that the wiring problem would have to be in the wires going to and coming from the control motor unit on the bottom of the assembly, and not just bulb wiring? I didn't think I was touching any wiring other than the bulb connectors; but perhaps I disturbed AHC wiring in the process. At no time did I open the large door where the HID bulb is located, but isn't that the unit that turns? If so, do I now need to go into that compartment?
Thanks again
Thanks
Can I assume that the wiring problem would have to be in the wires going to and coming from the control motor unit on the bottom of the assembly, and not just bulb wiring? I didn't think I was touching any wiring other than the bulb connectors; but perhaps I disturbed AHC wiring in the process. At no time did I open the large door where the HID bulb is located, but isn't that the unit that turns? If so, do I now need to go into that compartment?
Thanks again
Thanks
Last edited by ZeroDfx; 09-20-2023 at 04:50 PM.
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Don, thank you for the photos which make it quite clear that I am looking at a potential nightmare; a nightmare you obviously survived and prevailed. I'm curious, what particular problem were you trying to solve when you came upon all the flaked insulation issue?
I am interested in the 1/16" spiral wrap you used: how does it work and where do I get it?
Are you working inside the opening for the Xenon D2S bulb, or the circular opening for the angel eye bulb with the H7 bulb above it? I was simply trying to change these bulbs when I encountered the AHC malfunction, so I've been assuming the problem I created with a shorted wire is in that area. Does that sound correct to you? If so, any particular wires you would aim me at to investigate first?
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Nick
I am interested in the 1/16" spiral wrap you used: how does it work and where do I get it?
Are you working inside the opening for the Xenon D2S bulb, or the circular opening for the angel eye bulb with the H7 bulb above it? I was simply trying to change these bulbs when I encountered the AHC malfunction, so I've been assuming the problem I created with a shorted wire is in that area. Does that sound correct to you? If so, any particular wires you would aim me at to investigate first?
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Nick
Last edited by ZeroDfx; 09-21-2023 at 09:29 AM.
#10
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Too late for you, but for anyone stumbling on this thread later this is why I advise to do as LITTLE as possible inside a working headlight. Every movement of the wires, even changing a bulb, is a potential problem.