Idrive went black!!!help!!!
#21
Members
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: 535i M Sport
Model Year: 2010
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Worst case is your CCC is bad but it could simply be a bad LVDS cable as well. Unfortunately it doesn't sound like your local indy has the tools nor expertise to diagnosis the problem, let alone repair it. Any other shops around you could try? I quick google search turned up "Accurate Automotive" but I have no idea if they're any good or can handle something like this but they claim to be able to work on BMWs.
Honestly, I'm not sure I'd buy a BMW if the nearest dealership was 160+ miles away. They're just too complex, especially the electronics.
BTW, when you tried the reboot sequences, did you hold the buttons down for at least 30 seconds?
Honestly, I'm not sure I'd buy a BMW if the nearest dealership was 160+ miles away. They're just too complex, especially the electronics.
BTW, when you tried the reboot sequences, did you hold the buttons down for at least 30 seconds?
#22
Contributors
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 10,496
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
My Ride: 2008 550I LOADED, all options except HUD and NV
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When mine died it started out by going black on occasion, for seemingly no reason, then one day, nothing, nada, zippo, zilch. I tried the hard reset, didn't work. BTW, my TCU (Bluetooth module) was bad ass well, got that replaced when I got the CCC replaced. It's located in the trunk, under the carpet panel on the driver's (left) side. There are 2 brick shaped objects there, the one with the fins or ribs is the stereo amp, the other one is the TCU - Telematics Control Unit. I got a replacement one on eBay for $98, the dealer quoted me $1400 to replace.
I would probably replace the CCC and TCU at the same time,especially since the TCU is so cheap.
I would probably replace the CCC and TCU at the same time,especially since the TCU is so cheap.
#23
Members
Senior Members
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
First you must determine whether the battery and alternator are working properly. Attempting to trouble shoot components and modules in the system before knowing you have a solid voltage source can be an exercise in futility.
Once you are sure the battery and alternator are good then the next thing you can try is to reset the CCC. Push and hold both the CD and DVD eject buttons at the same time, while holding the eject buttons push the volume/on/off button. The CCC should then reset and the display may come back on.
If the iDrive does not come alive then try a battery reset:
Access the battery behind the right side trunk trim panel.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Then disconnect the positive battery terminal and insulate it (maybe wrap a rag around it so it can’t touch anything else).
Allow the car to sit for 20-30 minutes. This allows all of the capacitors in the modules to discharge their power and lets the modules reset.
Reconnect the battery (positive cable first then negative cable) and see if it fixes your issue.
CAUTION: The battery cables contain some very sensitive electronics. Make sure the bolts on the cable clamps are fully loosened before attempting to remove the cables. Do not attempt to pry the cable off the battery terminal or handle it roughly. The negative cable (IBS) contains a microprocessor that can easily be damaged with rough treatment. The positive cable contains a miniature explosive charge that disconnects the positive battery cable in the event of an accident and can also be damaged with rough treatment.
Please report back your progress and we can move on as needed to fuses relays and modules.
Once you are sure the battery and alternator are good then the next thing you can try is to reset the CCC. Push and hold both the CD and DVD eject buttons at the same time, while holding the eject buttons push the volume/on/off button. The CCC should then reset and the display may come back on.
If the iDrive does not come alive then try a battery reset:
Access the battery behind the right side trunk trim panel.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Then disconnect the positive battery terminal and insulate it (maybe wrap a rag around it so it can’t touch anything else).
Allow the car to sit for 20-30 minutes. This allows all of the capacitors in the modules to discharge their power and lets the modules reset.
Reconnect the battery (positive cable first then negative cable) and see if it fixes your issue.
CAUTION: The battery cables contain some very sensitive electronics. Make sure the bolts on the cable clamps are fully loosened before attempting to remove the cables. Do not attempt to pry the cable off the battery terminal or handle it roughly. The negative cable (IBS) contains a microprocessor that can easily be damaged with rough treatment. The positive cable contains a miniature explosive charge that disconnects the positive battery cable in the event of an accident and can also be damaged with rough treatment.
Please report back your progress and we can move on as needed to fuses relays and modules.
#25
New Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
First you must determine whether the battery and alternator are working properly. Attempting to trouble shoot components and modules in the system before knowing you have a solid voltage source can be an exercise in futility.
Once you are sure the battery and alternator are good then the next thing you can try is to reset the CCC. Push and hold both the CD and DVD eject buttons at the same time, while holding the eject buttons push the volume/on/off button. The CCC should then reset and the display may come back on.
If the iDrive does not come alive then try a battery reset:
Access the battery behind the right side trunk trim panel.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Then disconnect the positive battery terminal and insulate it (maybe wrap a rag around it so it can’t touch anything else).
Allow the car to sit for 20-30 minutes. This allows all of the capacitors in the modules to discharge their power and lets the modules reset.
Reconnect the battery (positive cable first then negative cable) and see if it fixes your issue.
CAUTION: The battery cables contain some very sensitive electronics. Make sure the bolts on the cable clamps are fully loosened before attempting to remove the cables. Do not attempt to pry the cable off the battery terminal or handle it roughly. The negative cable (IBS) contains a microprocessor that can easily be damaged with rough treatment. The positive cable contains a miniature explosive charge that disconnects the positive battery cable in the event of an accident and can also be damaged with rough treatment.
Please report back your progress and we can move on as needed to fuses relays and modules.
Once you are sure the battery and alternator are good then the next thing you can try is to reset the CCC. Push and hold both the CD and DVD eject buttons at the same time, while holding the eject buttons push the volume/on/off button. The CCC should then reset and the display may come back on.
If the iDrive does not come alive then try a battery reset:
Access the battery behind the right side trunk trim panel.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Then disconnect the positive battery terminal and insulate it (maybe wrap a rag around it so it can’t touch anything else).
Allow the car to sit for 20-30 minutes. This allows all of the capacitors in the modules to discharge their power and lets the modules reset.
Reconnect the battery (positive cable first then negative cable) and see if it fixes your issue.
CAUTION: The battery cables contain some very sensitive electronics. Make sure the bolts on the cable clamps are fully loosened before attempting to remove the cables. Do not attempt to pry the cable off the battery terminal or handle it roughly. The negative cable (IBS) contains a microprocessor that can easily be damaged with rough treatment. The positive cable contains a miniature explosive charge that disconnects the positive battery cable in the event of an accident and can also be damaged with rough treatment.
Please report back your progress and we can move on as needed to fuses relays and modules.
Hey thanks I will look into it today, works been crazy cuz of these past holidays. I think the only thing left to do is the disconnection and re-connection of the battery like you said. I just hadnt done it because it looks complex, too many cables just there, but like you said just take them off the terminal with caution, i guess i was kinda afraid of reseting the battery itself because ive heard these batterys are actually programmed to the vehicle itself so i guess i was kinda holding back on that, another thing I do not have a dvd eject button because my e60 is not equipped with a navi system, do you know which would probably be the third button to press? thank you guys, you are awesome for helping out, really
#26
New Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well bro, I guess the only other thing to do is what Bimmerman said about the battery thing, Ill do it today and keep you guys posted, if it doesnt work, i guess Ill have to go ahead and buy another ccc, ive seen them on ebay go for around 600-700, I know can do all the installation myself, I just want to know if it will need some sort of re-programming to sync with the car and how much would it be.
#27
New Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
guys quick question i found a ccc module for my car, mine is not equipped with navigation or anything, so im only tryna to buy whats know as the ccc mask right? not the really thick one thats got the dvd and navigation. I found one at a local shop here and the shop wants $100, what do you guys think?
#28
Contributors
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 10,496
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
My Ride: 2008 550I LOADED, all options except HUD and NV
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
guys quick question i found a ccc module for my car, mine is not equipped with navigation or anything, so im only tryna to buy whats know as the ccc mask right? not the really thick one thats got the dvd and navigation. I found one at a local shop here and the shop wants $100, what do you guys think?
#29
New Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes, if you do not have NAV then you need teh MASK unit. $100 is a great price, but expect to pay between $100-200 to have it coded to your car. This is not a plug and play thing the VIN needs to be coded into the unit for it to work. I would try to get some sort of warranty on the MASK and whoever does the work. Good luck Bro
Last edited by docsilva; 01-08-2013 at 04:38 PM.
#30
New Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys well, I replaced my M-ask unit and now have a working screen along with my music and apparently Aux as well, the unit I bought was in a 2007 550I so basically what i need now is the aux cable and coding, thanks guys you are the shizznet for keeping it real.