HELP hood gap.
03-26-2016, 06:12 AM
#15
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My Ride: 530i
Model Year: 2004
Engine: M54
sooooo, all of that inner structure that's marked with blue Xs was replaced right? right?????
the entire front half of the E60 is bonded and riveted structural aluminum than CANNOT be repaired when damaged. no 'pulling', hammer and dolly work, nothing. all of that stuff that was marked damaged should have been replaced. if it wasn't, there's your problem.
EDIT:
just looked over that supplement. I have serious doubts that it was done correctly, or if at all. I don't know how you'd replace the lower rail and apron without pulling the motor out. you have to. The other tip off for me is that I don't see any structural adhesive on that supplement. doing a rail/apron on an E60 should take about 2 to 3 tubes of the OEM adhesive, and it's about $300 per tube. something isn't adding up.
you also do realize that your hood, bumper, and left fender are all aftermarket, yes? they're not going to fit as well as OEM.
the entire front half of the E60 is bonded and riveted structural aluminum than CANNOT be repaired when damaged. no 'pulling', hammer and dolly work, nothing. all of that stuff that was marked damaged should have been replaced. if it wasn't, there's your problem.
EDIT:
just looked over that supplement. I have serious doubts that it was done correctly, or if at all. I don't know how you'd replace the lower rail and apron without pulling the motor out. you have to. The other tip off for me is that I don't see any structural adhesive on that supplement. doing a rail/apron on an E60 should take about 2 to 3 tubes of the OEM adhesive, and it's about $300 per tube. something isn't adding up.
you also do realize that your hood, bumper, and left fender are all aftermarket, yes? they're not going to fit as well as OEM.
Last edited by KyleB; 03-26-2016 at 06:17 AM.
03-26-2016, 07:44 PM
#18
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My Ride: 535XI
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
sooooo, all of that inner structure that's marked with blue Xs was replaced right? right?????
the entire front half of the E60 is bonded and riveted structural aluminum than CANNOT be repaired when damaged. no 'pulling', hammer and dolly work, nothing. all of that stuff that was marked damaged should have been replaced. if it wasn't, there's your problem.
EDIT:
just looked over that supplement. I have serious doubts that it was done correctly, or if at all. I don't know how you'd replace the lower rail and apron without pulling the motor out. you have to. The other tip off for me is that I don't see any structural adhesive on that supplement. doing a rail/apron on an E60 should take about 2 to 3 tubes of the OEM adhesive, and it's about $300 per tube. something isn't adding up.
you also do realize that your hood, bumper, and left fender are all aftermarket, yes? they're not going to fit as well as OEM.
the entire front half of the E60 is bonded and riveted structural aluminum than CANNOT be repaired when damaged. no 'pulling', hammer and dolly work, nothing. all of that stuff that was marked damaged should have been replaced. if it wasn't, there's your problem.
EDIT:
just looked over that supplement. I have serious doubts that it was done correctly, or if at all. I don't know how you'd replace the lower rail and apron without pulling the motor out. you have to. The other tip off for me is that I don't see any structural adhesive on that supplement. doing a rail/apron on an E60 should take about 2 to 3 tubes of the OEM adhesive, and it's about $300 per tube. something isn't adding up.
you also do realize that your hood, bumper, and left fender are all aftermarket, yes? they're not going to fit as well as OEM.
They had the car for 2 month.
03-27-2016, 05:52 AM
#19
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My Ride: 530i
Model Year: 2004
Engine: M54
+1
I would definitely check. You don't have to remove the fender to see the replacement seams. Heck, I'd even take it to a different body shop (BMW certified) and verify that those parts were replaced. You might have to pay them $50 or so, but I'd do it. The rivets and especially the bonding agents are not cheap, and I don't see them anywhere on that supplement. It's possible that the shop 'absorbed' the material costs to save the job, but you're talking about nearly a grand in material that should be on that estimate and isn't, not to mention the labor operations requred (removing the engine and front subframe) that are required just to access that lower rail. And definitely keep in mind that you have several aftermarket body panels that were likely produced by different manufacturers, you'll never get those to line up as good as OEM even if the front structure of the car wasn't damaged.
good luck.
good luck.
03-28-2016, 06:04 PM
#20
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My Ride: 535XI
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
+1
I would definitely check. You don't have to remove the fender to see the replacement seams. Heck, I'd even take it to a different body shop (BMW certified) and verify that those parts were replaced. You might have to pay them $50 or so, but I'd do it. The rivets and especially the bonding agents are not cheap, and I don't see them anywhere on that supplement. It's possible that the shop 'absorbed' the material costs to save the job, but you're talking about nearly a grand in material that should be on that estimate and isn't, not to mention the labor operations requred (removing the engine and front subframe) that are required just to access that lower rail. And definitely keep in mind that you have several aftermarket body panels that were likely produced by different manufacturers, you'll never get those to line up as good as OEM even if the front structure of the car wasn't damaged.
good luck.
I would definitely check. You don't have to remove the fender to see the replacement seams. Heck, I'd even take it to a different body shop (BMW certified) and verify that those parts were replaced. You might have to pay them $50 or so, but I'd do it. The rivets and especially the bonding agents are not cheap, and I don't see them anywhere on that supplement. It's possible that the shop 'absorbed' the material costs to save the job, but you're talking about nearly a grand in material that should be on that estimate and isn't, not to mention the labor operations requred (removing the engine and front subframe) that are required just to access that lower rail. And definitely keep in mind that you have several aftermarket body panels that were likely produced by different manufacturers, you'll never get those to line up as good as OEM even if the front structure of the car wasn't damaged.
good luck.