HELP: 550 very rough idle.
03-14-2013, 07:10 PM
#11
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My Ride: 2009.5 E60 550i MSport
2011 E90 ///M3 ZCP
Yeah, I think your car is fine, personally...I mean judging by the video and what you've mentioned in this thread. I kinda thought something was wrong when i bought my car with 33K miles...it ran exactly like it does now, just a hint of roughness at idle, especially with the A/C off. It still pulls like a freight train and I can't expect it to idle like a Lexus...I think that's just the way these cars are. The sluggishness from a stop to a roll is a common complaint...the crappy throttle response from the drive by wire. The plugs are supposed to be good for 100K, but i plan on changing them at 80K.
Now, if your car is vibrating really badly, like you can actually SEE the steering wheel vibrate or it's stuttering or stalling, then you have a problem....
Now, if your car is vibrating really badly, like you can actually SEE the steering wheel vibrate or it's stuttering or stalling, then you have a problem....
Just checked in with /// Motorcepts, looks like the harmonic balancer
03-15-2013, 04:57 AM
#12
03-15-2013, 07:12 PM
#14
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Hi Guys, I myself have had this issue since i bought my 550i with 133k. Car was well taken care of, garage kept, dealer maintained, corporate owned.
Background : I have ISTA/X systems and have programmed and reprogrammed the heck out of the car using INPA to back out changes, etc. I have done a bit of preventative maintenance on the car including Mechatronic, trans maintenance, valve covers, alternator bracket gasket, ccv's.
Nothing has solved the idle vibration issue. I do not want to increase the idle because that isnt a "fix", its a band aid. I decided to take on some serious testing.
Currently : I am replacing 4 Vanos units to see if there is any change in operation. Also replacing the motor mounts because its much easier disassembled.
Next: In my heart i honestly believe this is Valvetronic related. The wear issues reported. Unfortunately, to replace the eccentric shafts, rockers & intermediate shafts costs around $2500 in parts alone DIY. BMW states it is the only full fix for improper and unmatched cylinder filling. Replacing the intermediate levers alone is only a temporary fix, and symptoms will return. If the first step doesn't solve my issues i will be performing this fix at some point.
Background : I have ISTA/X systems and have programmed and reprogrammed the heck out of the car using INPA to back out changes, etc. I have done a bit of preventative maintenance on the car including Mechatronic, trans maintenance, valve covers, alternator bracket gasket, ccv's.
Nothing has solved the idle vibration issue. I do not want to increase the idle because that isnt a "fix", its a band aid. I decided to take on some serious testing.
Currently : I am replacing 4 Vanos units to see if there is any change in operation. Also replacing the motor mounts because its much easier disassembled.
Next: In my heart i honestly believe this is Valvetronic related. The wear issues reported. Unfortunately, to replace the eccentric shafts, rockers & intermediate shafts costs around $2500 in parts alone DIY. BMW states it is the only full fix for improper and unmatched cylinder filling. Replacing the intermediate levers alone is only a temporary fix, and symptoms will return. If the first step doesn't solve my issues i will be performing this fix at some point.
03-16-2013, 02:17 AM
#15
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I started experiencing rough idle too and it got so bad my car would turn off when I came to a stop. I took it to an indy and he said I needed a new intake manifold runner valve and crankcase vent valve.
I replaced the intake manifold valve myself (super easy DIY and it was totally broken!) and I also cleaned the ICV. Now the car doesn't turn off anymore but I still have a rough idle. I've noticed its worse when its cold and smoother after I use chevron fuel system cleaner.
I still need to replace the crankcase vent valve but now I'm thinking about replacing my fuel filter too....
I replaced the intake manifold valve myself (super easy DIY and it was totally broken!) and I also cleaned the ICV. Now the car doesn't turn off anymore but I still have a rough idle. I've noticed its worse when its cold and smoother after I use chevron fuel system cleaner.
I still need to replace the crankcase vent valve but now I'm thinking about replacing my fuel filter too....
03-18-2013, 01:27 AM
#16
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My Ride: '06 E60 550i
I have looked at a few other 550 and 750 cars, they all have that problem with the idle and vibration at some rpm range (usually different on most, but below always 3,000rpm).
I would be curious to know if you notice any difference on yours.
Last edited by Cinder; 03-18-2013 at 01:30 AM.
03-18-2013, 01:36 AM
#17
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Cinder, Mine is an annoying vibration in the steering wheel at idle, minor idle fluctuation and stumbling.
I was waiting until i could pull the numbers off the valvetronic parts before i started putting her back together. I finally found where they are so i can start putting her back. Should be 2-3 weeks because i am taking my time and its a big job too.
As soon as i have her back on the road i will know if the 4 new Vanos units made any difference. I pulled apart the intake vanos and it seemed to be in very good condition. But that is on the valveronic side and it doesn't see near the cycling that the exhaust sees since that is always full duration. In other words, i am expecting to see more wear on the exhaust side.
I was waiting until i could pull the numbers off the valvetronic parts before i started putting her back together. I finally found where they are so i can start putting her back. Should be 2-3 weeks because i am taking my time and its a big job too.
As soon as i have her back on the road i will know if the 4 new Vanos units made any difference. I pulled apart the intake vanos and it seemed to be in very good condition. But that is on the valveronic side and it doesn't see near the cycling that the exhaust sees since that is always full duration. In other words, i am expecting to see more wear on the exhaust side.
03-18-2013, 06:48 AM
#18
Results of Cleaning Mass Airflow Sensor
https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...nction-106090/
Do you think it's a bad MAF sensor or maybe the sensor is dirty? Just trying to assist...
Last edited by Jim165; 03-18-2013 at 06:53 AM.
03-18-2013, 05:49 PM
#19
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Hi Jim, thanks for your input. All of the standard "consumable" items have been serviced and/or replaced. This is not your typical issue. People are starting to report this a little more, BMW is raising the idle to "fix" it. I want to find out what the actual fix is so I'm going in deep! 
I have had this engine torn down to bits and pieces several times learning as i do this as a small side business too. The E60 and like are just starting to come into the indy shop rotation out of warranty now. they all have a cycle.
So...new Vanos units are fitted, just need to find a 30mm wrench and put her back together. Will have some results. If the new Vanos units don't fix the idle vibration, then i will be replacing all of the valvetronic components next round. This vibration is that annoying.
There has to be a clear cause of this, we will see.
I have had this engine torn down to bits and pieces several times learning as i do this as a small side business too. The E60 and like are just starting to come into the indy shop rotation out of warranty now. they all have a cycle.
So...new Vanos units are fitted, just need to find a 30mm wrench and put her back together. Will have some results. If the new Vanos units don't fix the idle vibration, then i will be replacing all of the valvetronic components next round. This vibration is that annoying.
There has to be a clear cause of this, we will see.
03-18-2013, 05:57 PM
#20
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Go to Lowes. They have a 30mm wrench. But it's about $30. lol. I picked one up around 6 months ago. here it is:
Shop Kobalt 30mm Combination Wrench at Lowes.com
Shop Kobalt 30mm Combination Wrench at Lowes.com