Have you revved your cars up to the red line?
08-05-2009, 06:58 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by Bteljuice' post='965513' date='Aug 4 2009, 05:34 PM
Can you elaborate/explain this a bit more? Its the first time i hear your can hold your shifter in order not to upshift or downshift.
What is the use to it? when do you use it?
Thank you for the extra info.
What is the use to it? when do you use it?
Thank you for the extra info.
This is a 2005 STEP so no paddle and no new shifter.
All description assumes we are dealing with M1 through M6.
You can test application simply sitting stopped, stepping on brake.
Your car may not seek the same gears since it appears you have an I6 engine and possibly a different model STEP tranny, but the method should work the same.
You will note that your shifter has spring tension; that is, if you push forward and let go or relax it automatically comes back. Same if you pull back, it wants to come back and return automatically to center position.
To start try this: Engine running, foot on brake, shift to M3. Should stay there as mine does. Shift to M4, mine will not stay in M4 if I release shifter and returns to M3. But if I shift and hold shifter back it stays in M4. Repeat for M5 and M6. Same thing happens. If I release the shifter it will return to M3, but if I hold the shifter I can keep tranny in any gear.
Ok we have done this little test. Now for a basic test putting car in motion. While still stopped, place tranny in M1. If it stays there fine but we want to test my method so put into M1 and hold shifter in its forward position. Now release brake and start accelerating keeping shifter held forward. Accelerate to redline which should happen rather quickly in 1st gear. As long as you hold that shifter forward it will not shift and you can bounce it of the limiter. Let go and it will shift into second (M2) and possibly even M3, especially if you stay on throttle. You can experiment with this and do things like let it shift to M2 and then hold the shifter and keep it in M2 and so on.
Now why and when do I do this? AutoX can use this method to good use (smooth and quick) and roads with lots of curves such as found on ToD (318 curves in 11 miles equals a curve of some type every 180 feet or less). Some are 180 degree hairpins taken at 25-40 and some a series of ?S? taken at high speed and everything in between. After you learn the route you know when you need low in/high out and you need to be in right gear for that particular curve and work with your brakes, etc.
Let me know how it works for you
08-06-2009, 05:11 AM
#32
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I believe it is best to stay below the "tick marks" at the top of the tach. I consider this the yellow zone seen on some tachs. On mine, they begin at 4500 rpm for a cold engine and increase with engine temp, but there are always 4 ticks left at the top of the band, maybe 6600 rpm.
I have only hit the rev limiter once when I thought I was in 2nd gear, but was actually in 1st. I was focusing on speed, not rpm, when I was surprised by the limiter.
I have only hit the rev limiter once when I thought I was in 2nd gear, but was actually in 1st. I was focusing on speed, not rpm, when I was surprised by the limiter.
08-09-2009, 01:20 PM
#33
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WOOW.That is the first time I know u can do this in a bimmer. It always pisses me off when im going up-hill and say, "please dont shift, please dont shift" as i am planing to pass someone and BAM, it shifts. Will deintely try this tomorrow morning and report back. HOPE IT WORKS.
Thanks a lot Cobradav.
Thanks a lot Cobradav.
08-11-2009, 02:27 PM
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WOOW. Thx cobradav. I felt like i was racing. Its an awesome feeling to know ur in control of the gears. Its like manual transmission.
Plus when revving to the red line, the needle starts to jump and flicker like racing cars (i actually got scared that the engine will blow or something wrong will happen to the Transmission).
Its sad to know about this after owning the car for almost 2yrs and now selling it
Plus when revving to the red line, the needle starts to jump and flicker like racing cars (i actually got scared that the engine will blow or something wrong will happen to the Transmission).
Its sad to know about this after owning the car for almost 2yrs and now selling it
08-11-2009, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cobradav' post='967003' date='Aug 5 2009, 08:58 PM
I will try to explain:
This is a 2005 STEP so no paddle and no new shifter.
All description assumes we are dealing with M1 through M6.
You can test application simply sitting stopped, stepping on brake.
Your car may not seek the same gears since it appears you have an I6 engine and possibly a different model STEP tranny, but the method should work the same.
You will note that your shifter has spring tension; that is, if you push forward and let go or relax it automatically comes back. Same if you pull back, it wants to come back and return automatically to center position.
To start try this: Engine running, foot on brake, shift to M3. Should stay there as mine does. Shift to M4, mine will not stay in M4 if I release shifter and returns to M3. But if I shift and hold shifter back it stays in M4. Repeat for M5 and M6. Same thing happens. If I release the shifter it will return to M3, but if I hold the shifter I can keep tranny in any gear.
Ok we have done this little test. Now for a basic test putting car in motion. While still stopped, place tranny in M1. If it stays there fine but we want to test my method so put into M1 and hold shifter in its forward position. Now release brake and start accelerating keeping shifter held forward. Accelerate to redline which should happen rather quickly in 1st gear. As long as you hold that shifter forward it will not shift and you can bounce it of the limiter. Let go and it will shift into second (M2) and possibly even M3, especially if you stay on throttle. You can experiment with this and do things like let it shift to M2 and then hold the shifter and keep it in M2 and so on.
Now why and when do I do this? AutoX can use this method to good use (smooth and quick) and roads with lots of curves such as found on ToD (318 curves in 11 miles equals a curve of some type every 180 feet or less). Some are 180 degree hairpins taken at 25-40 and some a series of ?S? taken at high speed and everything in between. After you learn the route you know when you need low in/high out and you need to be in right gear for that particular curve and work with your brakes, etc.
Let me know how it works for you
This is a 2005 STEP so no paddle and no new shifter.
All description assumes we are dealing with M1 through M6.
You can test application simply sitting stopped, stepping on brake.
Your car may not seek the same gears since it appears you have an I6 engine and possibly a different model STEP tranny, but the method should work the same.
You will note that your shifter has spring tension; that is, if you push forward and let go or relax it automatically comes back. Same if you pull back, it wants to come back and return automatically to center position.
To start try this: Engine running, foot on brake, shift to M3. Should stay there as mine does. Shift to M4, mine will not stay in M4 if I release shifter and returns to M3. But if I shift and hold shifter back it stays in M4. Repeat for M5 and M6. Same thing happens. If I release the shifter it will return to M3, but if I hold the shifter I can keep tranny in any gear.
Ok we have done this little test. Now for a basic test putting car in motion. While still stopped, place tranny in M1. If it stays there fine but we want to test my method so put into M1 and hold shifter in its forward position. Now release brake and start accelerating keeping shifter held forward. Accelerate to redline which should happen rather quickly in 1st gear. As long as you hold that shifter forward it will not shift and you can bounce it of the limiter. Let go and it will shift into second (M2) and possibly even M3, especially if you stay on throttle. You can experiment with this and do things like let it shift to M2 and then hold the shifter and keep it in M2 and so on.
Now why and when do I do this? AutoX can use this method to good use (smooth and quick) and roads with lots of curves such as found on ToD (318 curves in 11 miles equals a curve of some type every 180 feet or less). Some are 180 degree hairpins taken at 25-40 and some a series of ?S? taken at high speed and everything in between. After you learn the route you know when you need low in/high out and you need to be in right gear for that particular curve and work with your brakes, etc.
Let me know how it works for you
That is awesome and I never knew it. Thank you Thank you....
.oouummphhhh 
.let us know.
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