carl0s

I spent at least 4 -5 hrs on it yesterday, and 4 hrs today.

carl0s

I'm gonna do it the way this guy did it:
Coolant pipe job completed! - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

It sounds about as difficult as you'd think it might be ordinarily, certainly not outrageously OTT like people make it sound (engine out, etc.)

I was going to change the upper timing cover gaskets, and valve cover gaskets anyway, and I'll bet you the alternator bracket oil seal needs changing too anyway, which sounds like it is half of the work involved in getting to the coolant pipe anyway. Good instructions for that here:
Pelican BMW Tech Article - The Infamous Alternator Bracket Oil Leak on the E65 BMW 7-Series -

Bit pissed that I've spent nearly £200 on this URO pipe though Maybe I can fit the URO pipe in the OEM-way.. I think that might just be possible. Whether that's a good idea or whether the OEM pipe would be better I don't know.

Only Bimmers

Go to your local pool supply store and get teflon o-ring grease. It works better than anything on earth for things like this. This may solve your issue and its cheap.

keep us up to date.

carl0s

I have made some reasonable progress just now.

I have the power steering pump and alternator removed (and other accessories), and I haven't had to remove the driver's side engine mount. It would have been easier to get to the 6mm hex bolt on the back of the PAS pump, but I got in just fine with a 3/8 ratchet + wobbler joint (shortest wobbler extension bar available), and then my 3/8 air ratchet on the same wobbler once it was cracked loose. I think it's a 6mm bolt anyway. Realoem calls it something weird. I used a T45 ot T40 torx. Didn't realise 'til afterwards that it was hex

Power steering and a/c are all still connected up. Would be nice if it could stay that way. We'll see.

Some pics:








I know it looks like a tangled mess, but the power steering pump is sat happily on the floor without stretching any of the hard lines, and the transmission heat-exchanger/cooler is also sat happily. Just didn't want to drain the fluids for now.

carl0s

Ah, I see why the engine mount has to come off now! It's fitted to the alternator bracket.

carl0s

Done a bit more.

No shortcuts though There wasn't enough room for my impact gun on the crank bolt with the a/c condenser still there.

Freon gone, a/c condenser, pas fluid (from pas cooler) gone, engine mount off, and engine supported by transmission jack. I do have a crane, but my garage is full of crap and it would have been a nightmare to get out.

Only Bimmers

Dont feel bad, you aren't the only one tearing down this far! Mine looks the same without the bumper off. I do have the transmission and remaining drive line out though. Funny that i can look and say hey, that's not so bad

Did the nose and front support come of easy? I am contemplating doing this to remove the motor to do maintenance on it.

carl0s

Yeah the front end came off easily.

It's all off now. I had to get my engine crane / hoist out in the end. There was no way I could see of getting the A/C compressor off without raising the engine off its mount, and even then it was awkward. The A/C compressor has to come off because it has dowels into the side of the timing cover.

I got the timing cover off today, and can get the URO pipe in this way just fine I think. Obviously be happier if I'd just spent £41 on the BMW pipe though..

I discovered the RH (left when looking from front) timing chain tensioner seems to be buggered.

H F

Boy I guess that bimmer pipe really pissed u off .. Cause u sure rolled up your sleeves and went town . Good luck with the reassembling..

carl0s

Thanks. Well, to be honest I think it's all worthwhile.

I bought this car as a non-runner, and I have discovered along the way that the timing chain tensioner is bad (the one on the left of this picture, that has no way of coming out without raising the engine a *lot*), and I'll be able to do the alternator bracket seal, the timing cover seals/gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and I'll try to clear the secondary air whatsits in the heads as well while it's all accessible.

Then I'll just have to figure out what's up with the auto box.

Obviously this would be a nightmare if this was my daily driver, but it's not.

Mine was the URO pipe BTW. I think the Bimmerpipe would have gone in easily because of its sleeve. I think it's a bit expensive too though, although not as expensive as the AGA pipe. Doing it this way isn't that much of a big deal so far, and the part is like $60.

The only difficult bit so far has been getting the A/C compressor out with the two bolts (actually one bolt and one nut) at the back being nearly impossible to get to with a wrench. I had to lift the engine up a bit on the crane to do it.