GA6HP26Z Oil change - Still problems
05-09-2014, 03:22 AM
#11
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Follow the thread I posted and you should be fine. It's really not that big of a job to do. Things I'd be cautious about are making sure that the car is level, and making sure that the transmission doesn't exceed 50C when you are filling. The temps will rise a lot quicker than you might think, but as long as you have a pump that moves fluid through it quickly I doubt you'll have any problems there. The one I picked up at harbor freight will empty a one liter bottle in about three pumps
05-09-2014, 07:42 AM
#12
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Yeah, thanks for that thread!
I think I am most concerned about removing and installing the mechatronic sleeve without turning a good transmission to a bad transmission. lol
I think I am most concerned about removing and installing the mechatronic sleeve without turning a good transmission to a bad transmission. lol
Follow the thread I posted and you should be fine. It's really not that big of a job to do. Things I'd be cautious about are making sure that the car is level, and making sure that the transmission doesn't exceed 50C when you are filling. The temps will rise a lot quicker than you might think, but as long as you have a pump that moves fluid through it quickly I doubt you'll have any problems there. The one I picked up at harbor freight will empty a one liter bottle in about three pumps
Last edited by E60I; 05-09-2014 at 08:06 AM.
05-09-2014, 04:12 PM
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Be careful in handling the mechatronic sleeve. SIide it in, orienting the tube correctly, and don't twist it. And *BEFORE* bolting all 24 pan screws, make sure you press the white mechatronic retaining clip in place. I forgot to do that. I was thinking about it later and realized I hadn't snapped the retainer in place. So I got to drain and refill again! 
--a long day. I saw that by bolting down the pan, the pan actually presses the retainer clip most of the way in. But don't forget! 
My "xi" has a transfer case that gets in the way--along with the exhaust system. I removed the exhaust system to get clear access. RWD cars probably don't have that clearance issue.
Torque: I recommend installing dry bolts (clean with brake cleaner if oily). Applying the "dry torque" to an oily screw will put more clamping pressure than intended.
--a long day. I saw that by bolting down the pan, the pan actually presses the retainer clip most of the way in. But don't forget! My "xi" has a transfer case that gets in the way--along with the exhaust system. I removed the exhaust system to get clear access. RWD cars probably don't have that clearance issue.
Torque: I recommend installing dry bolts (clean with brake cleaner if oily). Applying the "dry torque" to an oily screw will put more clamping pressure than intended.
Last edited by latitude39; 05-09-2014 at 04:24 PM.
05-09-2014, 04:21 PM
#15
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FWIW, here are my notes from the job when I did it a couple of years ago.
Mechatronic sleeve replacement. This is for AWD. RWD will require less dis-assembly.
This $25 component requires these steps:
1. Remove exhaust system
2. Remove transfer case support bracket
3. Remove heat shield (small) which covers the driver side transmission pan.
4. Drain transmission fluid
5. Remove transmission pan (24 bolts)
6. Replace Mechatronic sleeve
a. Pull down the white tab to release the sleeve.
b. Rotate the collar on the sleeve, probably 45 degrees or thereabouts.
c. Pull the sleeve straight out *without* rotating, so as not to damage the electrical connections.
d. Lube the new one (should have black o-rings vs red o-rings on old one).
e. Slide the new sleeve *straight* in, aligning the cutout to mate.
f. Rotate the old collar back on—45 degrees or so, until it distinctly locks with a slight tactile click feeling.
g. Using a 3mm allen key, gauge the gap between sleeve and transmission body; there should be less than 3mm (the key won’t go in the space).
h. Press the white locking clip straight up (1/2” or so) to lock in the sleeve.
7. Put a new seal on the transmission pan.
8. Install all 24 bolts, tightening till contact only.
9. Torque all 24 bolts to 10nm in a criss-cross pattern, starting from the inside. (thectsc.com publishes the criss-cross sequence)
10. Remove the 4 torx-type bolts (M10?) holding the front drive shaft to the transfer case input.
11. Refill transmission; run the car through all gears with foot on brake; heat the fluid to 30-50C; fill fluid with car running until it overflows; cap it.
12. Re-install heat shield
13. Re-install TC support.
14. Re-install exhaust system, replacing 5 copper bolts, using copper-based anti-seize paste.
15. Using 4 brand new torx-type bolts, purchased from Schomp, torque them to 20nm +45 degrees. A helper stepping the brakes would have been wonderful. Alternately, use the handle of a ratchet wedged in between the TC and driveshaft to prevent the driveshaft from rotating.
16. Replace belly pan.
Mechatronic sleeve replacement. This is for AWD. RWD will require less dis-assembly.
This $25 component requires these steps:
1. Remove exhaust system
2. Remove transfer case support bracket
3. Remove heat shield (small) which covers the driver side transmission pan.
4. Drain transmission fluid
5. Remove transmission pan (24 bolts)
6. Replace Mechatronic sleeve
a. Pull down the white tab to release the sleeve.
b. Rotate the collar on the sleeve, probably 45 degrees or thereabouts.
c. Pull the sleeve straight out *without* rotating, so as not to damage the electrical connections.
d. Lube the new one (should have black o-rings vs red o-rings on old one).
e. Slide the new sleeve *straight* in, aligning the cutout to mate.
f. Rotate the old collar back on—45 degrees or so, until it distinctly locks with a slight tactile click feeling.
g. Using a 3mm allen key, gauge the gap between sleeve and transmission body; there should be less than 3mm (the key won’t go in the space).
h. Press the white locking clip straight up (1/2” or so) to lock in the sleeve.
7. Put a new seal on the transmission pan.
8. Install all 24 bolts, tightening till contact only.
9. Torque all 24 bolts to 10nm in a criss-cross pattern, starting from the inside. (thectsc.com publishes the criss-cross sequence)
10. Remove the 4 torx-type bolts (M10?) holding the front drive shaft to the transfer case input.
11. Refill transmission; run the car through all gears with foot on brake; heat the fluid to 30-50C; fill fluid with car running until it overflows; cap it.
12. Re-install heat shield
13. Re-install TC support.
14. Re-install exhaust system, replacing 5 copper bolts, using copper-based anti-seize paste.
15. Using 4 brand new torx-type bolts, purchased from Schomp, torque them to 20nm +45 degrees. A helper stepping the brakes would have been wonderful. Alternately, use the handle of a ratchet wedged in between the TC and driveshaft to prevent the driveshaft from rotating.
16. Replace belly pan.
Last edited by latitude39; 05-09-2014 at 04:28 PM.
05-10-2014, 02:41 AM
#16
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Well i was able to remove 8L from it and added 8 new liters to it, according to the way you should fill it. starting it and filling it 40-50C until it started to drip from the filling hole.
if you look at ZF specification the complete gearbox including the converter will need 9.6 Litres. and a additional 0.5L for the cooling part.
http://www.zf.com/media/media/docume...28_Catalog.pdf
if i look at the garage workshop manual it was the same amout of oil.
The kit i bought included 8L of oil.
if you look at ZF specification the complete gearbox including the converter will need 9.6 Litres. and a additional 0.5L for the cooling part.
http://www.zf.com/media/media/docume...28_Catalog.pdf
if i look at the garage workshop manual it was the same amout of oil.
The kit i bought included 8L of oil.
05-10-2014, 06:27 AM
#18
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Thank you!
To avoid complications in seating the mechatronic sleeve in its proper location, I suggest marking it!
To avoid complications in seating the mechatronic sleeve in its proper location, I suggest marking it!
FWIW, here are my notes from the job when I did it a couple of years ago.
Mechatronic sleeve replacement. This is for AWD. RWD will require less dis-assembly.
This $25 component requires these steps:
1. Remove exhaust system
2. Remove transfer case support bracket
3. Remove heat shield (small) which covers the driver side transmission pan.
4. Drain transmission fluid
5. Remove transmission pan (24 bolts)
6. Replace Mechatronic sleeve
a. Pull down the white tab to release the sleeve.
b. Rotate the collar on the sleeve, probably 45 degrees or thereabouts.
c. Pull the sleeve straight out *without* rotating, so as not to damage the electrical connections.
d. Lube the new one (should have black o-rings vs red o-rings on old one).
e. Slide the new sleeve *straight* in, aligning the cutout to mate.
f. Rotate the old collar back on—45 degrees or so, until it distinctly locks with a slight tactile click feeling.
g. Using a 3mm allen key, gauge the gap between sleeve and transmission body; there should be less than 3mm (the key won’t go in the space).
h. Press the white locking clip straight up (1/2” or so) to lock in the sleeve.
7. Put a new seal on the transmission pan.
8. Install all 24 bolts, tightening till contact only.
9. Torque all 24 bolts to 10nm in a criss-cross pattern, starting from the inside. (thectsc.com publishes the criss-cross sequence)
10. Remove the 4 torx-type bolts (M10?) holding the front drive shaft to the transfer case input.
11. Refill transmission; run the car through all gears with foot on brake; heat the fluid to 30-50C; fill fluid with car running until it overflows; cap it.
12. Re-install heat shield
13. Re-install TC support.
14. Re-install exhaust system, replacing 5 copper bolts, using copper-based anti-seize paste.
15. Using 4 brand new torx-type bolts, purchased from Schomp, torque them to 20nm +45 degrees. A helper stepping the brakes would have been wonderful. Alternately, use the handle of a ratchet wedged in between the TC and driveshaft to prevent the driveshaft from rotating.
16. Replace belly pan.
Mechatronic sleeve replacement. This is for AWD. RWD will require less dis-assembly.
This $25 component requires these steps:
1. Remove exhaust system
2. Remove transfer case support bracket
3. Remove heat shield (small) which covers the driver side transmission pan.
4. Drain transmission fluid
5. Remove transmission pan (24 bolts)
6. Replace Mechatronic sleeve
a. Pull down the white tab to release the sleeve.
b. Rotate the collar on the sleeve, probably 45 degrees or thereabouts.
c. Pull the sleeve straight out *without* rotating, so as not to damage the electrical connections.
d. Lube the new one (should have black o-rings vs red o-rings on old one).
e. Slide the new sleeve *straight* in, aligning the cutout to mate.
f. Rotate the old collar back on—45 degrees or so, until it distinctly locks with a slight tactile click feeling.
g. Using a 3mm allen key, gauge the gap between sleeve and transmission body; there should be less than 3mm (the key won’t go in the space).
h. Press the white locking clip straight up (1/2” or so) to lock in the sleeve.
7. Put a new seal on the transmission pan.
8. Install all 24 bolts, tightening till contact only.
9. Torque all 24 bolts to 10nm in a criss-cross pattern, starting from the inside. (thectsc.com publishes the criss-cross sequence)
10. Remove the 4 torx-type bolts (M10?) holding the front drive shaft to the transfer case input.
11. Refill transmission; run the car through all gears with foot on brake; heat the fluid to 30-50C; fill fluid with car running until it overflows; cap it.
12. Re-install heat shield
13. Re-install TC support.
14. Re-install exhaust system, replacing 5 copper bolts, using copper-based anti-seize paste.
15. Using 4 brand new torx-type bolts, purchased from Schomp, torque them to 20nm +45 degrees. A helper stepping the brakes would have been wonderful. Alternately, use the handle of a ratchet wedged in between the TC and driveshaft to prevent the driveshaft from rotating.
16. Replace belly pan.
Last edited by E60I; 05-10-2014 at 07:00 AM.
05-10-2014, 06:32 AM
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05-10-2014, 06:33 AM
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