Front Control Arm Bushings - 550i
12-17-2010, 07:58 AM
#11
As odd as it might seem buying new control arms w/bushings installed might actually be cheaper overall than having new bushings pressed into your old parts. Probably a flat-rate price chart situation when you add the labor to remove the bushings and press in new ones. Rather than straight out swapping of the complete arm /bushing. Have you shopped for a dealer special coupon. e.g. My dealer just sent me a 24% discount coupon good for any service or repair if I bring in canned food for their food drive.
Certainly if I were doing it myself (and I've done it myself on my prior 5-series) I'd just do the whole arm, getting them from one of the discounted dealer mail-order operations, and then getting a six pack of beer, and myself ready for some skinned knuckles.
12-17-2010, 09:38 AM
#12
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I highly recommend buying new arms versus replacing the bushing only. The arms have a ball-joint on the other end which also wear and become very loose. When I was installing the arms, I compared the condition of the ball joint from new to old and it wasn't even a contest. The new ones are nice and stiff and took some effort to twist where as the old ones were very twirly.
12-17-2010, 09:43 AM
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I saw your DIY and it appeared you replaced the entire control arm? I saw another DIY where they replaced the bushings, but they required a hydraulic press to take out and replace the bushings. Kinda silly if the entire control arm isnt that much $$.
It sounded like the force to break the bolts free was the most difficult part (especially with the car jacked up...not the most stable). Maybe an electric wrench I could rent? Or I do have a large air compressor and could potentially rent an air gun. Never have rented one previously.
You also added this comment "Word of caution doing yours. If you still have the stock struts, you will have to allow a bit more time for this DIY. The reason being because the stock struts are much longer through the collar on the hub, you will NOT have sufficient room to pull out the arm after you get the nut loose. You will need to undo the big 18mm nut/bolt combination behind the collar to drop the hub before the arm can be taken out. I know, it's a bitch but it is what it is.". that sounds much more difficult.
It sounded like the force to break the bolts free was the most difficult part (especially with the car jacked up...not the most stable). Maybe an electric wrench I could rent? Or I do have a large air compressor and could potentially rent an air gun. Never have rented one previously.
You also added this comment "Word of caution doing yours. If you still have the stock struts, you will have to allow a bit more time for this DIY. The reason being because the stock struts are much longer through the collar on the hub, you will NOT have sufficient room to pull out the arm after you get the nut loose. You will need to undo the big 18mm nut/bolt combination behind the collar to drop the hub before the arm can be taken out. I know, it's a bitch but it is what it is.". that sounds much more difficult.
Harbor Freight has an electric one for like $50 you can buy I think. A bunch of people I know have gotten good results from the electric torque gun. But If I can loosen them and do a whole suspension swap, you can do it too. Good luck with the repair.
12-17-2010, 09:57 AM
#14
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The big 18mm bolt is not that hard get loose. It's just fact that you have to loosen and drop the wheel hub to get the arm out. Should add another 30 minutes to the DIY. If you can rent a nice torque gun, it would make your life infinitely easy. Harbor Freight has an electric one for like $50 you can buy I think. A bunch of people I know have gotten good results from the electric torque gun. But If I can loosen them and do a whole suspension swap, you can do it too. Good luck with the repair.
Harbor Freight has an electric one for like $50 you can buy I think. A bunch of people I know have gotten good results from the electric torque gun. But If I can loosen them and do a whole suspension swap, you can do it too. Good luck with the repair.Do you have the torque specs for reassembly? and did you use aftermarket control arms?
12-17-2010, 01:06 PM
#17
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I did use the aftermarket arms from FCP Groton. You can't beat the price and the warranty. Even if I have to buy 2 sets in the life of my car, I'd still come out on top. They are not sub standard parts by no means, I even weighed the two and looked at the bushings and I could not tell the difference.
12-17-2010, 01:59 PM
#18
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http://meyleusa.com/improved_bmw.htm
And also part availability for E60 has not reached into retailers yet.
Last time I checked w/ FCP Groton and other major online dealers, they said they can't get the HD parts for E60.
12-17-2010, 03:12 PM
#19
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I assume the bushings on these control arms are the ones with oil inside? Hydraulic?
Because the dealer said the bushings that need to be replaced are hydraulic.
Because the dealer said the bushings that need to be replaced are hydraulic.
12-17-2010, 07:11 PM
#20
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My Ride: 2004 545i,1995 M3
Model Year: 2004