scottalexander

You say you replaced the DMTL pump.

When I booted up ISTA and ran the evap diagnostic, I could hear my dmtl pump working. However, just because it was working doesn't mean it wasn't leaking.

After ISTA finished the evap diagnostics I went over to the drivers side door. I could smell gasoline. It occurred to me that during the ISTA test the fuel ventilation valve must have been broken and was leaking gas fumes. Why else would I smell gas. It was a good bet the problem was the ventilation valve.

It would be good if you had ISTA and ran the evap test. You could then see if you smell gas fumes at the driver's side door.

One more thing I could have added to the list of tips from above:

- I disconnected the battery before I removed the throttle body
- I made sure I didn't move the position of the butterfly valve inside the throttle body when I cleaned it
- the torque setting on the throttle body is 7 ft lbs

scottalexander

Update:

After getting Fault code 2a16 and installing a new fuel ventilation valve last month, I have not gotten the check engine light again.

josemontes246

Thanks for the update man! I tried replacing the fuel ventilation valve and again no luck for me. This all started happening after I installed a stage 2 bucketless fuel pump so I’m guessing I must have messed up the install.

scottalexander

You replaced the fuel pump and that's when this shenanigan's started?

Here's some magic I learned doing my fuel pump and fuel filter (that few like to do)

- you have to buy a good lock ring removal tool to unscrew the lock ring. Mine cost $11 on eBay and uses a 3/8 inch drive connection. See pic below
- you have to buy a new silver lock ring (throw that bent, old rusty one away)
- you have to buy new O rings
- with your new lock ring tool you can now torque the lock ring to the proper torque spec verses guessing and hoping
- with your new lock ring tool you can easily replace the fuel filter every two years from now on so it doesn't clog and labor the fuel pump