engine ticking noise
#12
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Calgary, AB - Canada / Buenos Aires - Argentina
My Ride: 2006 BMW M5
75000 miles or 121000 km. that is 2 years driving from 28000 miles since I purchased
but of course I do the maintenance everytime it needs.
but of course I do the maintenance everytime it needs.
#13
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 142
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From: Sweden
My Ride: M6 E63 Sapphire black
Z3 Coupe R4Turbo Hellrot, semi race. (670bhp)
Z3 Coupe V8Turbo design work ongoing, full race.
Sold: 545i Titanium Silver
Just as a reference. A used replacement engine goes for about 6500 - 7000$
As for all engines with hydraulic lifters / Hydr. valve pushrod, they can get stucked if particle deposit builds up and prevent the oil to flow correct in the lifter. Noise occur.
The cheapest way would be to try something like Omega 907. See if you can flush an eventually stucked lifter.
omega907.pdf
Pour the 907 into the oil, let the engine idle for about 10minutes, and then replace the oil and filter.
Next step would be to replace the Hydraulic pushrods (No. 9)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=11&fg=25
When removing the lifters, compress them one after another and see if the behavior is like a spring, just compressed and stay compressed, or if they feel stiff.
121 000km is nothing! The engine would, if properly maintained, run at least three times that before some components would be worn ut, and needed replacement.
As for all engines with hydraulic lifters / Hydr. valve pushrod, they can get stucked if particle deposit builds up and prevent the oil to flow correct in the lifter. Noise occur.
The cheapest way would be to try something like Omega 907. See if you can flush an eventually stucked lifter.
omega907.pdf
Pour the 907 into the oil, let the engine idle for about 10minutes, and then replace the oil and filter.
Next step would be to replace the Hydraulic pushrods (No. 9)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=11&fg=25
When removing the lifters, compress them one after another and see if the behavior is like a spring, just compressed and stay compressed, or if they feel stiff.
121 000km is nothing! The engine would, if properly maintained, run at least three times that before some components would be worn ut, and needed replacement.
#14
No, it was under factory warranty when I purchased (it was about 28.000 miles) in 2006 and it was valid in Canada. The warranty expired at 50000 miles or 80000 km. I asked for extended warranty and BMW Canada does not support it. That sucks.
Now I got that noise....
Now I got that noise....
After reading your posts again it also occurs to me that the dealer is saying "yea your engine is ticking, we know about the issue but aren't sure we can fix it so we are going to try and scare you off dealing with it by putting a HUGE potential bill in front of you".
Like I said if the car isn't under warranty the consumer gets screwed...
#15
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,706
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From: Calgary, AB - Canada / Buenos Aires - Argentina
My Ride: 2006 BMW M5
Originally Posted by NPe' post='569011' date='Apr 27 2008, 02:51 AM
Just as a reference. A used replacement engine goes for about 6500 - 7000$
As for all engines with hydraulic lifters / Hydr. valve pushrod, they can get stucked if particle deposit builds up and prevent the oil to flow correct in the lifter. Noise occur.
The cheapest way would be to try something like Omega 907. See if you can flush an eventually stucked lifter.
Attachment 48852
Pour the 907 into the oil, let the engine idle for about 10minutes, and then replace the oil and filter.
Next step would be to replace the Hydraulic pushrods (No. 9)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=11&fg=25
When removing the lifters, compress them one after another and see if the behavior is like a spring, just compressed and stay compressed, or if they feel stiff.
121 000km is nothing! The engine would, if properly maintained, run at least three times that before some components would be worn ut, and needed replacement.
As for all engines with hydraulic lifters / Hydr. valve pushrod, they can get stucked if particle deposit builds up and prevent the oil to flow correct in the lifter. Noise occur.
The cheapest way would be to try something like Omega 907. See if you can flush an eventually stucked lifter.
Attachment 48852
Pour the 907 into the oil, let the engine idle for about 10minutes, and then replace the oil and filter.
Next step would be to replace the Hydraulic pushrods (No. 9)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=11&fg=25
When removing the lifters, compress them one after another and see if the behavior is like a spring, just compressed and stay compressed, or if they feel stiff.
121 000km is nothing! The engine would, if properly maintained, run at least three times that before some components would be worn ut, and needed replacement.
Yes, my car is very well maintained (oil/filter every 8000 KM/5000 miles, etc..) just got only that awful noise.
#16
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,706
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From: Calgary, AB - Canada / Buenos Aires - Argentina
My Ride: 2006 BMW M5
Originally Posted by mhs525' post='569061' date='Apr 27 2008, 07:40 AM
You folks up north and Europeans I think get screwed on warranties. My CPO 545i has 34k miles and is warranted up to 100k miles. 75k miles/120k kilometers is nothing for modern engine unless the oil was never changed. BMW should be embarrassed. My 1972 Buick GS has well over 150k miles on the motor and I beat the crap out of it, runs fine.
After reading your posts again it also occurs to me that the dealer is saying "yea your engine is ticking, we know about the issue but aren't sure we can fix it so we are going to try and scare you off dealing with it by putting a HUGE potential bill in front of you".
Like I said if the car isn't under warranty the consumer gets screwed...
After reading your posts again it also occurs to me that the dealer is saying "yea your engine is ticking, we know about the issue but aren't sure we can fix it so we are going to try and scare you off dealing with it by putting a HUGE potential bill in front of you".
Like I said if the car isn't under warranty the consumer gets screwed...
Right! I figured that BMW Canada doesn't want Canadian consumers buy BMW in US because they are losing money. (http://forums.e60.net/lofiversion/index.php/t46265.html)
but well.... I got screwed and I learned.
#18
I get this noise on the passenger side of the engine. It only happens occasionally, typically when it is cold. My car is still under warranty, but I know if I bring it to the dealer, it will not make the sound. Any suggestions on what I should do? I'm really concerned that it will cause problems later when the car is no longer covered by the warranty ... I have 1.5 years to go.
#20
I've had the same problem. I reported it to my dealer twice and they said "Normal." I think it is due to the Valvetronic system which is much much more complex than a standard valve train. It's my thinking that a little slop in the lift control lever tolerances will cause noise and as they heat and expand, the noise goes away. There was an SIB on this that allowed for replacement of them on certain 2004 545i models where they were way out of spec, but it might have been more trouble than it's worth to fix it. The noise is so slight, barely noticable, that I just ignore it. Before you or your mechanic rip into your car, possibly screwing up something else, I'd re-think things.