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Engine malfunction/too rich after fixing injectors

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Old Feb 20, 2019 | 01:21 PM
  #11  
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Here are the logs. MHD kept having issues connecting, but that's what it gave me. Any input is appreciated.
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 06:29 AM
  #12  
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Just a bit of an update. I used MHD to continue to clear codes. I noticed very apparent misfires when MHD connected to the ECU each time. One time it even totally killed the engine.

That being said, it is running better now. The only lagging issue is the "engine malfunction" light that shows up when I am WOT in 3rd gear around 5500 rpm. I feel no misfire and there are not any engine lights other than the malfunction indication. When I pull DME info right after the malfunction indication i get a "30FF - Turbocharger, charge-air pressure too low" but it runs fine anyways. After a restart, the lights are gone again until I do a hard pull through 3rd gear and it'll come back.
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 09:34 AM
  #13  
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You could have a boost leak.
Places to check:
- Check the plastic charge pipe going to the throttle body (these like to crack)
- Check the diverter valve connections
- Check the connections to the intercooler

- You could have bad wastgate solenoid(s)
- Check all the vacuum lines especially to the wastegates

Are you near Northern Indiana?
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Old Mar 1, 2019 | 05:35 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by NoQuarter
You could have a boost leak.
Places to check:
- Check the plastic charge pipe going to the throttle body (these like to crack)
- Check the diverter valve connections
- Check the connections to the intercooler

- You could have bad wastgate solenoid(s)
- Check all the vacuum lines especially to the wastegates

Are you near Northern Indiana?
I was thinking charge pipe. Do i need to vacuum test the diverter valves, intercooler connections and vacuum lines?

I'm about an hour north of Indy. Where are you located?
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Old Mar 1, 2019 | 05:50 AM
  #15  
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From: Indiana, USA
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Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
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The vacuum system will hold a vacuum for a while after the car is turned off. A good test is to pull one of the vacuum lines off and you should hear a woosh of air if there is still a vacuum. If there is no vacuum, then there is a leak. If all the vacuum lines are original you should just replace all of them anyway. Be sure to slice the vacuum line where it connects to a plastic nipple or use a pick type tool to insert and break the connection loose. Those plastic nipples will break off.

Short of just a visual inspection of the intercooler connections, you would have to do a pressure test or smoke test to check for leaks.

I'm further north in South Bend
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Old Mar 30, 2019 | 09:34 AM
  #16  
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Just so anyone else comes upon this thread. I ended up buying 4mm vacuum lines from verocious motorsports online. I ended up just swapping out the lines between the diverter valves, intake manifold, etc. I ran some compressed air through the DVs while they were out and everything is back to normal.
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Old Mar 31, 2019 | 10:26 AM
  #17  
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From: Indiana, USA
My Ride: 2007 530xi: Sport, NAV, PDC, HUD, Cold Wthr, CA, Logic 7, HD Radio, SAT, Custom NCS coded options 2008 535xi: Sport, Night Vision, NAV, PDC, HUD, Cold Wthr, CA, Logic 7, SAT, Custom NCS coded options, Rear Seat Heat Retrofit, Passport 9500ci
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
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Originally Posted by BurtonSnol3order
Just so anyone else comes upon this thread. I ended up buying 4mm vacuum lines from verocious motorsports online. I ended up just swapping out the lines between the diverter valves, intake manifold, etc. I ran some compressed air through the DVs while they were out and everything is back to normal.
Nice result!
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