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ENGINE MALFUNCTION, REDUCED POWER - Error message

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Old 04-23-2008, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by good anti' post='566818' date='Apr 23 2008, 05:41 PM
it is a BdD401A as i have an auto.

yeah pins are good.

i did see that the ppl that had this problem did return them also.

well i cant think of anything either.

thanks for the help.
One last thought, when I got the lights when I first borrowed one to try out. I restarted, the lights still took a few seconds to clear, but sure you gave it a few seconds before shutting it back down. I actually still saw some lights or warnings and held the check button and it came back O.K. and all lights were then clear.

Perhaps the few that are having problems are defective units. I do not know what recourse you have for sending back since you did not buy it new, maybe you could e-mail Andy and see if he could test it and exchange it if it is bad or at least let you know if it is bad. Good luck...

Oh and don't sweat it, you can live without it. I am actually considering taking mine back off. It is really only making the car think the pedal is pushed further than it is...

---Edit---


Alright, one a couple final thoughts escaped me. Test on any other BMW or Mini 2002+ with fly by wire or simply check the pins with a volt/ohm meter...

You can send me your booster or if you have anyone from the board close by (with a working booster) (even better), but if you want to send it to me I'll throw it on my car and see if it works or I encounter the same issue. I am suspecting a defective SB.

Well, if nobody (near you) steps to the plate and your down for it send me a PM and we'll try to get to the bottom of it or at least narrow down the issue. I'll even cover the shipping back to ya...

I am suspecting that yours is a defective SB. I stumbled on THIS THREAD while doing some research making me think that one of the pins could easily be shorted-out on the internal circuit board on a few of these and if it was more internal this could look normal or as-if the pins are not bent. Plugging it in 180 or just even a little carelessly could certainly contribute and break the pin connection internally. Heck, if it doesn't work I'd buy it from you for say 50 bucks so I can tear it apart and see exactly what makes it tic. I want to figure out how to wire a bypass switch on one anyways maybe I could fix this one and turn it into a prototype with a switch...

Actually you could test the connection on each end of the booster with a volt/ohm meter which would not be destructive and I wouldn't have to install it on mine if you found one of the pins is not carrying the connection through to the other side of the SB. Not too complicated, but (if it sounds like it is) send it to me I'll test it and send it right back to ya...
Old 04-23-2008, 10:23 PM
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i was gonna suggest the same thing glock-357 mentioned, regarding waiting and doing the engine restart. i remember that when i installed mine, i had my car in sleep mode. if ur engine is warm, open the hood, close the doors and lock, and wait at least 20 mins. if ur engine is cold, do the same procedure except just wait for 30 seconds. i had to put my car into sleep mode to install my split second turbo tuner, and i just figured i would do the same for my sprintbooster.

on another note, my car with the split second turbo tuner and sprintbooster have completely transformed my ride. i also just recently added a BMC air filter in place of stock and i can actually hear the turbos spooling, awesome awesome sound that the stock filter just muffles. my 535i just launches off the line, thanks to the SB, and then all hell breaks loose as the SSTT unleashes the turbo. at around 3000 rpm the car thrusts forward, pulling furiously and ferociously towards the tach red line. allahbuddjesus, i'm in love.

and i do agree that the SB will def decrease mileage. in fact with all of three of these engine mods, i can say with bittersweet joy and sorrow that my fuel economy is currently experiencing a recession of about 2.3 mpg after two consecutive gas tanks.

...and yes, the glock 32 is a great gun, but i'm a springfield xd man myself.
Old 04-23-2008, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by owwo' post='566960' date='Apr 23 2008, 11:23 PM
i was gonna suggest the same thing glock-357 mentioned, regarding waiting and doing the engine restart. i remember that when i installed mine, i had my car in sleep mode. if ur engine is warm, open the hood, close the doors and lock, and wait at least 20 mins. if ur engine is cold, do the same procedure except just wait for 30 seconds. i had to put my car into sleep mode to install my split second turbo tuner, and i just figured i would do the same for my sprintbooster.

on another note, my car with the split second turbo tuner and sprintbooster have completely transformed my ride. i also just recently added a BMC air filter in place of stock and i can actually hear the turbos spooling, awesome awesome sound that the stock filter just muffles. my 535i just launches off the line, thanks to the SB, and then all hell breaks loose as the SSTT unleashes the turbo. at around 3000 rpm the car thrusts forward, pulling furiously and ferociously towards the tach red line. allahbuddjesus, i'm in love.

and i do agree that the SB will def decrease mileage. in fact with all of three of these engine mods, i can say with bittersweet joy and sorrow that my fuel economy is currently experiencing a recession of about 2.3 mpg after two consecutive gas tanks.

...and yes, the glock 32 is a great gun, but i'm a springfield xd man myself.


BTW, I editied my previous post with more thoughts on the matter if anyone (i.e. Anti) wants to go back and read the edit. As much effort as is being put into helping others 'on topic' a 'brief friendly off topic comment' or two should be tolerated by others here at this point, I would hope. Heck, I'll go back and copy it here so it doesn't get missed...


---Edit---

Anti,

Alright, one a couple final thoughts escaped me. Test on any other BMW or Mini 2002+ with fly by wire or simply check the pins with a volt/ohm meter...

You can send me your booster or if you have anyone from the board close by (with a working booster) (even better), but if you want to send it to me I'll throw it on my car and see if it works or I encounter the same issue. I am suspecting a defective SB.

Well, if nobody (near you) steps to the plate and your down for it send me a PM and we'll try to get to the bottom of it or at least narrow down the issue. I'll even cover the shipping back to ya...

I am suspecting that yours is a defective SB. I stumbled on THIS THREAD while doing some research making me think that one of the pins could easily be shorted-out on the internal circuit board on a few of these and if it was more internal this could look normal or as-if the pins are not bent. Plugging it in 180 or just even a little carelessly could certainly contribute and break the pin connection internally. Heck, if it doesn't work I'd buy it from you for say 50 bucks so I can tear it apart and see exactly what makes it tic. I want to figure out how to wire a bypass switch on one anyways maybe I could fix this one and turn it into a prototype with a switch...

Actually you could test the connection on each end of the booster with a volt/ohm meter which would not be destructive and I wouldn't have to install it on mine if you found one of the pins is not carrying the connection through to the other side of the SB. Not too complicated, but (if it sounds like it is) send it to me I'll test it and send it right back to ya...
Old 04-24-2008, 06:23 AM
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thanks for all of your help Glock

it turns out the the #4 and #6 pins are dead.
Old 04-24-2008, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Glock-357' post='566815' date='Apr 23 2008, 08:34 PM
Sorry I am baffled. I hate to think that the unit is a defective one. There were a few others in this thread having issues that ended up returning there's (I think for a refund), but it looked like they might have had it plugged in wrong.

Is it the BD401 or BD401A not that this should make a difference... BD401A is for automatic..., but either should work just that the manaul one is more sensative or something...

Maybe double check the pins again since you plugged it in 180 degrees wrong at one point...

You sure you have it plugged in correctly on both ends? check the pin numbering, etc. the one for the floor does nott have any numbers but it should be obvious how it plugs in based on the shape of the plug...

Wish I could be of more help...
I'm one of the unlucky few who returned it - for a full refund, no questions asked. I'm still bummed out about it...
Old 04-24-2008, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by good anti' post='567111' date='Apr 24 2008, 07:23 AM
thanks for all of your help Glock

it turns out the the #4 and #6 pins are dead.
How did you determine. I am guessing with a volt/ohm meter? If you did just incase, I can test my working unit the same way you did to make sure the current flows through those pins on mine. That should provide final closure on the issue.

If it was originally bought from Andy then I am sure he would work with you to exchange it if it is faulty even if you are not the original purchaser.
Old 04-24-2008, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Glock-357' post='567194' date='Apr 24 2008, 12:39 PM
How did you determine. I am guessing with a volt/ohm meter? If you did just incase, I can test my working unit the same way you did to make sure the current flows through those pins on mine. That should provide final closure on the issue.

If it was originally bought from Andy then I am sure he would work with you to exchange it if it is faulty even if you are not the original purchaser.

yes i rang it out on a volt meter.
Old 04-24-2008, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by good anti' post='567213' date='Apr 24 2008, 10:35 AM
yes i rang it out on a volt meter.

O.K. there seems to be resistance on pins 4 and 6 with the ohm meter set to Rx1 the needle barely moved (showing a lot of resistance) at first but it did move to like 1K. Now with both of those pins I can't seem to get it to move again and I don't want to jam the tester in there. All other pins have zero resistance. So I assume pins 4 and 6 are probably supposed to be like that. I am thinking those two pass through the circuit board and does whatever it does (i.e. capacitor/resistor) and perhaps with the built up voltage from the ohm meter I no longer get a reading...

So I guess this was inconclusive. Perhaps try installing it on another BMW or better yet one that has a working sprint booster.

So I guess it is either certain cars for whatever reason (software, etc.) have an issue with SB or there are some bum sprintboosters out there. The only way to finalize that is to install it on a car that already had sucess with the booster.

BTW (on my M5) when I took it off, got the warning, restart and cleared... Who knows... I am going to try to get used to driving without it again for peace of mind and to not be so hard on the gas/car/MPG all of the time. Maybe there is not as big a need on the M5 with P500S. Funny thing is with it on I drive in P400 a lot more because I forget I am even in P400. Problem with the mod is that once you have tried it, it is hard to stop using it. Sounds kind of like crack, HaHa!

I'll post back in a few days as to whether I can live without it or not.

Sorry we did not really get anywhere with your issue.
Old 04-25-2008, 01:08 PM
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Fixed.

I had the same crazy engine response when I installed my sprint booster as well. The egine light came on the engine idle and rev went nuts and then the engine died. I was careful to install as directed and even contacted Andy with any suggestions. He e-mailed me a diagram of the how the pins should align. I followed the instructions as directed. The 1 pin aligned with the 1 socket on the female side. The engine went nuts again.

Being courious, I simply flipped the sprint booster plug upside down where it connects to the plug coming out of the carpet, and the car fired up perfectly. The check engine light even went off after 2 days of short trips. Be careful to align the curved side of the sprint booster with the curved side of the BMW plug.

All I can say is that the sprint booster is worth every penny. Andy also is great to work at sales@partspexporter and he was very helpful during this process.

Hope this helps.
Old 04-25-2008, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim Blink' post='568170' date='Apr 25 2008, 05:08 PM
Fixed.

I had the same crazy engine response when I installed my sprint booster as well. The egine light came on the engine idle and rev went nuts and then the engine died. I was careful to install as directed and even contacted Andy with any suggestions. He e-mailed me a diagram of the how the pins should align. I followed the instructions as directed. The 1 pin aligned with the 1 socket on the female side. The engine went nuts again.

Being courious, I simply flipped the sprint booster plug upside down where it connects to the plug coming out of the carpet, and the car fired up perfectly. The check engine light even went off after 2 days of short trips. Be careful to align the curved side of the sprint booster with the curved side of the BMW plug.

All I can say is that the sprint booster is worth every penny. Andy also is great to work at sales@partspexporter and he was very helpful during this process.

Hope this helps.
if you read up i wrote that if i flip it i get the crazy rev problems but the other way i have no throttle at all and get a cruisecontrol and reduced power error lights.

either way i put it i won't work.


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