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e60 Right Side Locks Malfunction

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Old 10-11-2016, 07:41 PM
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Default e60 Right Side Locks Malfunction

This all started after a passenger exited the car and closed the door. e60 doors won't lock via the key fob or dash button. I just hear a clunk clunk clunk like one of the actuators is struggling. The front right door lock doesn't pop up and the rear right seems to be making the noise and won't pop up either.

The left side locks sometimes work then unlock.

At first I thought it was just one bad door latch and / or actuator but why would the two right side locks have a problem at the same time? HELP.

Last edited by donpb; 10-11-2016 at 07:45 PM.
Old 10-12-2016, 11:07 AM
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More details: Using the key fob,
  1. left side doors lock and unlock
  2. alarm chirps
  3. right side front door knob stays down
  4. right side rear door knob is halfway up and clunk sounds three times
  5. right side rear door knob something is stopping it from pushing down
Old 09-22-2020, 11:53 AM
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Same issue. My dear wife slammed the passenger door and now I cant lock/unlock passenger door with fob or dash button. Checking here to see if there is a chance I can avoid taking the door panel apart.

Last edited by Sixracer; 09-22-2020 at 12:34 PM.
Old 09-22-2020, 02:48 PM
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This happened so long long long ago, I forgot what the fix was. I think it might of was low battery related and eventually resolved its own self.
Old 10-02-2020, 09:00 AM
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Default Passenger door lock mechanism replacement DiY

I ended up replacing the door lock mechanism on my passenger side. I figure I would compile my notes here for others.

Part number for my 2008 E61 (non-soft close) was:
Door Lock Mechanism (Front Right)(2008 BMW 535xi Base Wagon)(m)
Part #: 51-21-7-202-146-BOE

Note it is recommended to also buy 3 of the screws, though I was able to reuse mine.
07-14-7-186-859

Requires a Torx T27 driver or socket, Torx T30 driver/socket, a 10mm socket, a Philips driver, and non-marring pry tools. Some silicon sealant is also recommended so you can re-adhere the vapor barrier.

FIRST - disconnect your battery as there is an airbag in the door panel.

Here is a good video on removing the door panel:

Basically you pry off the little ABS logo and remove the Torx T27. It is pretty hard to remove the screw itself but it is also wont fall anywhere so I left mine in the little opening.

Next there is a screw cover by the hinge side and a Philips to remove.

Before you start removing the clips on the door panel...make a plan for what you will do with the panel. It is a bit annoying to remove all the connectors so I used some bungees around the sideview mirror to hold the door panel. Just BE CAREFUL! Lots of stuff you could break in there.



Undo the clips around the panel, starting from the bottom. Once they all seem free, remove the door pushing upwards slightly. Dont move it too far from the door as there are many cables and wires. (Note mine seemed to have a clip of some sort in the center than I needed to force off with maybe 10 lb effort. I disconnected the airbag just for good measure as it seemed to have the shortest wire.

Once you have the panel secured or propped up out of the way...you can refer to this video:
Shoutout and thanks to Justin Buice for the great vid!

GENTLY peel vapor barrier back - you don't want to tear it.

Unplug the harness going into the lock mechanism. Remove the metal rod to the lock plunger thing.

Remove the cable thing on outside going to the interior door handle. It is hanging on a little metal hook.

Inside the door (i.e. behind where you pulled the vapor barrier back, there is a plastic/rubber cable pull that leads to the outer door handle. Pull it out from top then bottom to unclip. Here is a screen cap from the above vid.



Remove the 3 T30 screws holding the actuator in.

The mechanism is stuck in place with weather seal. Push toward the hinge and it should pop out.

Note, on my E61 there was plenty of room to remove the mechanism without removing any window components.

Now simply put the new lock mechanism back in its place. The lock mechanism holes are not tapped. You need to use some effort to screw into it and cut the threads. I reused my screws but it would probably be a good idea to spend the $3 for 3 new ones.

Reach back inside the door and reconnect the cable pull. Note, I messed this up and the outer door handle wouldn't open the door. I suggest you use your finger/screw driver to close the door latch, then test the outer handle and make sure you have the cable pull seated properly.

Next attach the inner door handle pull to the metal hook. Reattach the metal rod to the lock plunger and rest it somewhere so it is easy to fiddle with when you put the panel back on. Finally reconnect the wire connector.

At this point I HIGHLY recommend reconnecting your battery and testing all the functionality. If you did disconnect your airbag be sure to disconnect the battery before plugging the airbag back in.

Now you can put the door panel back on. Start by seating the top and the lock plunger. Then start pushing the clips in. Finally, the T27 and Philips.

All in all, probably took me 1 hr even with the outer door handle cable error. Very doable DiY.

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