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DIY oil change; is it worth it?

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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 07:03 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by pcy
I remember reading the oil level sensor measures the oil level, oil condition, and oil temp. I would like to understand what/how the sensor is measuring the 'condition' or quality of the oil.
Unfortunately there is none.

Lab analysis involves many complex tests using sophisticated test equipment. There is no cost effective method that can be attached to your car to replicate these tests and accurately measure whether the oil is still doing it's job.

Don't waste your time unless you have a fleet of thousands of vehicles, in which case you can save hundreds of thousands of dollars per year by extending drain intervals through repetitive lab analysis of oil.

IMHO oil is so cheap that if you own ten cars or less use the following rule of thumb:.

Drain intervals twice per year, 5K miles or 250 approximate hours of engine operation - whichever comes first.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 05:36 AM
  #52  
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It is amazing what an internal combusion engine can endure and still keep functioning:

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That sludge built up over years and miles. Throughout its lifetime, it functioned at a level far below its spec's.

Have a shop use a borescope to check for sludge buildup in the cylinder head area if you're concerned about the possibility.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 05:43 AM
  #53  
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I consider frequent oil changes are cheap insurance to prevent oil sludge. I do what I can to prevent major disasters.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 09:11 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by BimmerFan52
Unfortunately there is none.

Lab analysis involves many complex tests using sophisticated test equipment. There is no cost effective method that can be attached to your car to replicate these tests and accurately measure whether the oil is still doing it's job.

Don't waste your time unless you have a fleet of thousands of vehicles, in which case you can save hundreds of thousands of dollars per year by extending drain intervals through repetitive lab analysis of oil.

IMHO oil is so cheap that if you own ten cars or less use the following rule of thumb:.

Drain intervals twice per year, 5K miles or 250 approximate hours of engine operation - whichever comes first.
Actually, BimmerFan52, there is a good correlation between the conductivity of the oil and its protective properties, which is probably what BMW is using in its 'measurement of oil condition'. Definitely conductivity is related to pH of the oil. pH is related to how much detergents are left in the oil (detergents are alkaline based).

Your points on hours of running versus distance are right on. I did a quick calculation using your base of 250 hrs and I see that I have indeed fallen on about the same intervals as you, but I do manage to go about 20K kms in those 250 hrs.

Also your observation about the Cummins diesel is correct and is a technique we (industrial plants, in my case, petrochemical) use in running machinery continuously with now downtime to replace the lubricants. Our gas turbines which use synthetic lubricants exclusively, have a sidestream of oil removed continuously with a matching make up. Conductivity is one of the parameters we monitor, with, of course, periodic oil analysis.

Goos discussion.
Salut, Bob P.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 09:48 AM
  #55  
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I found this on the oil level\condition sensor.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Oil_Sensor.pdf (60.9 KB, 118 views)
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 02:56 PM
  #56  
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Balbs, excellent information. I didn't know that the actual measurement used for 'condition' is capacitance, which is closely related to conductivity. It is quite common to use capacitance for fluid levels, however.

salut, Bob P.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 03:12 PM
  #57  
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Does anyone know what the "minimum level" is? When I get that warning, I just add 1qt and it goes away.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 03:38 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by jmk
Does anyone know what the "minimum level" is? When I get that warning, I just add 1qt and it goes away.
Ouch! Never good to see that "OIL" warning light. Never.

You really need to get on top of checking that oil more often and probably changing it as well.

Put a date into your iphone to "check oil" each month. Do you know how to do this? If not, go to a full service station and have them check it for you.

Sounds like you're burning oil or going forever between oil changes.

Look at the photos of oil sludge buildup and then begin a program of changing that oil more often.

Let me suggest you purchase one of these and have your mechanic install it during the next oil change:

http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/ It can help to keep that oil cleaner for you between oil changes.

But it won't prevent carbon and varnish buildup which is probably occuring on your car.

BG has a professional cleaning flush that you might want to consider. Indy shops charge around $200 for it and you might be a prime candidate for it. First make sure that they run a borescope to see if you don't have large amounts of sludge built up. If so, sell the damn thing!

Last edited by paran; Feb 26, 2013 at 03:45 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 03:50 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by paran
Ouch! Never good to see that "OIL" warning light. Never.

You really need to get on top of checking that oil more often and probably changing it as well.

Put a date into your iphone to "check oil" each month. Do you know how to do this? If not, go to a full service station and have them check it for you.

Sounds like you're burning oil or going forever between oil changes.

Look at the photos of oil sludge buildup and then begin a program of changing that oil more often.

Let me suggest you purchase one of these and have your mechanic install it during the next oil change:

MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUGS It can help to keep that oil cleaner for you between oil changes.

But it won't prevent carbon and varnish buildup which is probably occuring on your car.

BG has a professional cleaning flush that you might want to consider. Indy shops charge around $200 for it and you might be a prime candidate for it. First make sure that they run a borescope to see if you don't have large amounts of sludge built up. If so, sell the damn thing!

Just posted this on another thread...maybe not as bad as it seems...Maybe go for a long ride and then check the oil level again on the iDrive to see what the level is after the drive.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 06:07 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by paran
Ouch! Never good to see that "OIL" warning light. Never.

You really need to get on top of checking that oil more often and probably changing it as well.

Put a date into your iphone to "check oil" each month. Do you know how to do this? If not, go to a full service station and have them check it for you.

Sounds like you're burning oil or going forever between oil changes.

Look at the photos of oil sludge buildup and then begin a program of changing that oil more often.

Let me suggest you purchase one of these and have your mechanic install it during the next oil change:

MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUGS It can help to keep that oil cleaner for you between oil changes.

But it won't prevent carbon and varnish buildup which is probably occuring on your car.

BG has a professional cleaning flush that you might want to consider. Indy shops charge around $200 for it and you might be a prime candidate for it. First make sure that they run a borescope to see if you don't have large amounts of sludge built up. If so, sell the damn thing!
I'm running the BMS JB4 tune on map 5 (12-17psi) with catless down pipes and a custom exhaust. I don't believe I'm burning oil because this seems to be an issue with many (if not all) JB users due to the higher boost. Installing a catch can soon so all that oil isn't getting sucked into my intake.

My typical oil changes will be more frequent now that I push the car harder. The problem is that my car goes from OK to "below minimum". I always have a spare qt in my trunk though so I just pull over and top it off.

Anyway, back to my original question. What exactly is minimum?
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