DIY oil change; is it worth it?
New Members
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 571
Likes: 10
From: Montreal Quebec Canada
My Ride: 2005 545i, premium package, 6sp manual, cold package, navigation package.
Model Year: 2005
Engine: N62
The only reason to worry about meeting the LL-01 spec is if you want to run your oil for extended periods. the "LL" in the LL-01 spec stands for Long LIfe.
Personally, I don't wish to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I have always been a 3000-4000 mile oil changer. I enjoy changing my own oil. I send my oil out for analysis from Blackstone Labs to see what is going on in the engine, too.
The "German" Castrol is a great oil in the 30-40 weight class. The only bad is thing is it is hard to find. The only place I know to get it is at Auto Zone. NO other auto parts stores carry it. I'd pick that over the M1 0W40 regardless of if it is meets the LL01 spec.
Personally, I don't wish to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I have always been a 3000-4000 mile oil changer. I enjoy changing my own oil. I send my oil out for analysis from Blackstone Labs to see what is going on in the engine, too.
The "German" Castrol is a great oil in the 30-40 weight class. The only bad is thing is it is hard to find. The only place I know to get it is at Auto Zone. NO other auto parts stores carry it. I'd pick that over the M1 0W40 regardless of if it is meets the LL01 spec.
Salut, Bob P.
Members
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: bonita springs florida
My Ride: 2005 530i, Premium Package, Grey Leather, Rear Euro Reflectors
The only reason to worry about meeting the LL-01 spec is if you want to run your oil for extended periods. the "LL" in the LL-01 spec stands for Long LIfe.
Personally, I don't wish to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I have always been a 3000-4000 mile oil changer. I enjoy changing my own oil. I send my oil out for analysis from Blackstone Labs to see what is going on in the engine, too.
The "German" Castrol is a great oil in the 30-40 weight class. The only bad is thing is it is hard to find. The only place I know to get it is at Auto Zone. NO other auto parts stores carry it. I'd pick that over the M1 0W40 regardless of if it is meets the LL01 spec.
Personally, I don't wish to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I have always been a 3000-4000 mile oil changer. I enjoy changing my own oil. I send my oil out for analysis from Blackstone Labs to see what is going on in the engine, too.
The "German" Castrol is a great oil in the 30-40 weight class. The only bad is thing is it is hard to find. The only place I know to get it is at Auto Zone. NO other auto parts stores carry it. I'd pick that over the M1 0W40 regardless of if it is meets the LL01 spec.
Senior Members
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 601
Likes: 1
From: Birmingham, AL
My Ride: 535i 6-speed
Model Year: 2008
If you change your oil every 15,000 miles...in the long term...it won't be an oil related item that kills the car. It will be some other combination of items whose repair costs exceed the value/desire of keeping the car...computer, radiator, alternator, drive shaft, transmission, brake issues, exhaust, etc....or the most likely item...someone crashes into you and totals the car. With modern engines and synthetic oils...the engine is not the weak link...it's everything else.
Having said that...I had '90 325i that went 225K miles...got hit and totalled. Had a '95 525i that went 256K miles...got hit and totalled). Currently have a '08 535i (out of warranty), '09 328i, and a '10 528i.. On all of those...I change(ed) or plan to change the oil at 10,000 intervals...NEVER any hint of an engine issue.
Having said that...I had '90 325i that went 225K miles...got hit and totalled. Had a '95 525i that went 256K miles...got hit and totalled). Currently have a '08 535i (out of warranty), '09 328i, and a '10 528i.. On all of those...I change(ed) or plan to change the oil at 10,000 intervals...NEVER any hint of an engine issue.
If you change your oil every 15,000 miles...in the long term...it won't be an oil related item that kills the car. It will be some other combination of items whose repair costs exceed the value/desire of keeping the car...computer, radiator, alternator, drive shaft, transmission, brake issues, exhaust, etc....or the most likely item...someone crashes into you and totals the car. With modern engines and synthetic oils...the engine is not the weak link...it's everything else.
Having said that...I had '90 325i that went 225K miles...got hit and totalled. Had a '95 525i that went 256K miles...got hit and totalled). Currently have a '08 535i (out of warranty), '09 328i, and a '10 528i.. On all of those...I change(ed) or plan to change the oil at 10,000 intervals...NEVER any hint of an engine issue.
Having said that...I had '90 325i that went 225K miles...got hit and totalled. Had a '95 525i that went 256K miles...got hit and totalled). Currently have a '08 535i (out of warranty), '09 328i, and a '10 528i.. On all of those...I change(ed) or plan to change the oil at 10,000 intervals...NEVER any hint of an engine issue.
I would guess that you do a fair amount of highway driving. In addition to miles driven each driver should also focus on driving habits in order to decide when to change oil. If a driver's driving habits change (generally commute distance) they should reexamine their drain intervals.
Oil does not age (oxidize) based on miles, but rather hours of operation, with oil life further shortened by other conditions such as short trips, stop and go, fuel blow-by and coolant in the oil.
The person who commutes an hour at 60mph average operates the engine for 250 hours in 15,000 miles. The person who commutes in stop and go traffic at 10mph average operates the engine for 1500 hours in 15,000 miles. The oil will have long been worn out (heavily oxidized with nearly all additives used up and heavily acidic) in stop and go conditions after 1500 hours of operation.
If I err, it is on the side of caution and change my M1 0W-40 every 5K miles. My objective is to drain when there are still plenty of additives left in oil and the pH is alkaline in order to be easy on engine gaskets, which are already a weak point on the 545i.
New Members
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 571
Likes: 10
From: Montreal Quebec Canada
My Ride: 2005 545i, premium package, 6sp manual, cold package, navigation package.
Model Year: 2005
Engine: N62
There are plenty of examples of people following the BMW condition based service, using BMW synthetic oil and ending up with excessive sludge at 50K miles.
I would guess that you do a fair amount of highway driving. In addition to miles driven each driver should also focus on driving habits in order to decide when to change oil. If a driver's driving habits change (generally commute distance) they should reexamine their drain intervals.
Oil does not age (oxidize) based on miles, but rather hours of operation, with oil life further shortened by other conditions such as short trips, stop and go, fuel blow-by and coolant in the oil.
The person who commutes an hour at 60mph average operates the engine for 250 hours in 15,000 miles. The person who commutes in stop and go traffic at 10mph average operates the engine for 1500 hours in 15,000 miles. The oil will have long been worn out (heavily oxidized with nearly all additives used up and heavily acidic) in stop and go conditions after 1500 hours of operation.
If I err, it is on the side of caution and change my M1 0W-40 every 5K miles. My objective is to drain when there are still plenty of additives left in oil and the pH is alkaline in order to be easy on engine gaskets, which are already a weak point on the 545i.
I would guess that you do a fair amount of highway driving. In addition to miles driven each driver should also focus on driving habits in order to decide when to change oil. If a driver's driving habits change (generally commute distance) they should reexamine their drain intervals.
Oil does not age (oxidize) based on miles, but rather hours of operation, with oil life further shortened by other conditions such as short trips, stop and go, fuel blow-by and coolant in the oil.
The person who commutes an hour at 60mph average operates the engine for 250 hours in 15,000 miles. The person who commutes in stop and go traffic at 10mph average operates the engine for 1500 hours in 15,000 miles. The oil will have long been worn out (heavily oxidized with nearly all additives used up and heavily acidic) in stop and go conditions after 1500 hours of operation.
If I err, it is on the side of caution and change my M1 0W-40 every 5K miles. My objective is to drain when there are still plenty of additives left in oil and the pH is alkaline in order to be easy on engine gaskets, which are already a weak point on the 545i.
Salut, bob P.
Thread Starter
New Members
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 228
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From: atlanta
My Ride: 2005 545i Sport
Going that long (10K+) between oil changes I would suggest running BG Engine Purge every 30k miles and BG 44K fuel injector cleaner to remove any buildup or deposits.
A combustion engine is a beast, and can remain "functional" for a very long time. But that doesn't mean it's running at an optimal state. Horsepower loss in a combustion engine is a known fact that occurs over time because of carbon deposits on the valves and rings and general wear leading to a loss in compression.
A combustion engine is a beast, and can remain "functional" for a very long time. But that doesn't mean it's running at an optimal state. Horsepower loss in a combustion engine is a known fact that occurs over time because of carbon deposits on the valves and rings and general wear leading to a loss in compression.
New Members
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Beaverton OR
My Ride: 2008 535i with sport package
Interesting read guys, as a new owner of a 2088 535i Sport, I was set on taking it to my local BMW dealership, thinking they were thorough and on top of doing the job right, I mean, come on, it is an oil change.
I take my Xterra to Jiffy Lube and have had no problems ever with the quality of work and am using a synthetic blend. I am the kind of guy who can change my own oil and have mechanical skills, I just choose to pay to have it done now rather than get under a car and get dirty.
Guess I will have to research the quality of work of BMW Northwest before I schedule oil changes there.
Also, what oil do you guys suggest? I am sure I will get many answers, but at least it will give me a starting point! Thanks all.
I take my Xterra to Jiffy Lube and have had no problems ever with the quality of work and am using a synthetic blend. I am the kind of guy who can change my own oil and have mechanical skills, I just choose to pay to have it done now rather than get under a car and get dirty.
Guess I will have to research the quality of work of BMW Northwest before I schedule oil changes there.
Also, what oil do you guys suggest? I am sure I will get many answers, but at least it will give me a starting point! Thanks all.
I'm not interested to read through this. I read the title and part of the first paragraph.Spending $80 to change your oil, when it would cost you $50 and 15 min of your time may be worth it. everyone is different and everyone's circumstances are different. So OP only you can answer your own question.
Senior Members
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 601
Likes: 1
From: Birmingham, AL
My Ride: 535i 6-speed
Model Year: 2008
Point me to an example of an oil related engine failure or even malfunction on a 50K car where the oil was changed at 15,000 instead of 5,000. In fact, I'd bet a new BMW would run just fine to 50K miles without the oil ever being changed...assuming it was kept topped off as necessary.
Last edited by Allen; Feb 24, 2013 at 02:47 PM.
Point me to an example of an engine failure or even malfunction due on a 50K car where the oil was changed at 15,000 instead of 5,000. In fact, I'd bet a new BMW would run just fine to 50K miles without the oil ever being changed...assuming it was kept topped off as necessary.


