E60I

From my understanding, a misfire usually occur when the engine is missing one or more of the three components to create a combustion: fuel, spark and compression.

In my case, I keep getting the annoying SES for cylinder #4 misfire!

The SES usually light up within the first minute when I start the car. If I clear it and drive the car, it won't light up no matter how long I drive. Please note: the SES only light up within the first minute when I start the car.

In hope to fix the problem once and for all, I have done the following:

1. Replaced cylinder #4 with a new BMW OEM injector.
2. Switched spark plug and ignition coil with other cylinders.
3. Added two small bottles of Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner to a full tank of gas.
4. Cross my fingers (for good luck) every time I start the car! :-)

Please help me, guys. The weather is getting "freezing-cold" lately and it's beginning to look ridiculous, walking around with fingers crossed.

Thanks!

Daniel

Ramathorn

Daniel,

I just had mine fixed yesterday... New #5 ignition coil and spark plug. Fixed me right up! Cost me $250 and they changed my oil and filter, I don't ever go to the dealer, unless I feel like taking one you know where, without lube! This stuff starts happening around 80,000 miles. The dealer will replace all plugs and coils which is why it's an $800 service. The mechanic where I go, who specialized in BMW's says you just need to replace what's broken... e60's with the Inline 6-cylinder will run forever with low maintenance done like this!

pcy

Electrical harness/wiring may be the culprit, specifically the wires from control unit to #4 coil.

I remember you mentioning that you had patched/fixed wires. While the patch/fix may 'look' ok, there may be an electrical short due to arcing during ignition.

E60I

Hey Pcy!

Hope all is well!

Check out the attachment (see arrows) and please give me another great advice.

One or two of the those three wires has broken insulator. I taped it and put heat shrink tube over the tape for double protection. Unfortunately, the heat shrink tube was a bit oversize because it needed to be big enough to slip over the blue rubber. Therefore, I don't think the heat shrink tube shrank tight enough to provide 100% electrical seal.

Can these three wires be fixed or must I buy a brand new harness set? I saw this(see link below) on Ebay and very tempted to buy it. But it looks so scary to take apart. lol

BMW E90 E92 E60 E61 528i 528xi 328i 328xi Injector Wire Wiring Harness | eBay

Thanks!!!




QUOTE=pcy;1526608]Electrical harness/wiring may be the culprit, specifically the wires from control unit to #4 coil.

I remember you mentioning that you had patched/fixed wires. While the patch/fix may 'look' ok, there may be an electrical short due to arcing during ignition.[/QUOTE]

E60I

Hi Ramathorn,

It's good to hear another success story. I am happy for you!

I have changed all six spark plugs about two years ago at around 54k miles. I also changed a few coils which needed not replaced ( I have at least three spares that I think is still working). This SES for the same cylinder has been going on for around two years now. Like Pcy said, the wires could be the culprit.

For anyone who is reading this thread, may I get a majority vote on this? Or a solution on how to seal those wires?

Thanks!

twh

In areas that can get moisture you need to use Dual Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubing and not the normal heat shrink tubing. When you heat up this stuff you can see it ooze out some adhevise from the cut ends. This stuff makes completely water proof splices.

E60I

Okay, the Dual Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink has been on for four days now. I am still getting the SES for misfire on cylinder #4 when I start the car. The SES often comes on within the first minute after I start the car. Again, if I clear the SES light and proceed driving the car, it tends stay off for hours.


Car runs fine and the idle is steady at 600 RPM. For the last two years, over 80% of the time, I can prevent it from popping up if I keep the RPM at 1000 within the first two minutes from cold starts. What can it be, guys?


Thanks for the education! I didn't know about Dual Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink until now. I will get some 3/16" in diameter and will report back with the final verdict. :-)

I did tried "liquid tape" and electrical tape for those wires before. Due to the engine temperature, they melted and lost integrity after a day or two.

Have a great day, guys!

QUOTE=twh;1526623]In areas that can get moisture you need to use Dual Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubing and not the normal heat shrink tubing. When you heat up this stuff you can see it ooze out some adhevise from the cut ends. This stuff makes completely water proof splices.[/QUOTE]

E60I

Problem: SES comes on upon cold starts "only", stating cylinder #4 misfires.


Temporary Remedy: Clear the code, drive the car and be prepared to clear the same annoying code again "on the next cold start". SES for cylinder does not come on no matter how long I drive after the code is cleared!


Recent work done in hope to fix the problem permanently:
1. Replaced fuel injector #4 with a brand new one (Genuine BMW part).
2. Switched spark plugs and ignition coils around. Torqued them according to specs
3. I cut the broken wires (3) and replaced them with new wires (PIC1, part #12520007172) by using butt connectors (26-22 gauge) and a ratcheting crimping tool. I insulated them with regular heat shrinking tubes and liquid tape to prevent electricity from arcing. I also coated the "non conductive parts" of the spark plugs and ignition coils with dielectric grease.


Ongoing Situation: The same SES still pops up on "cold starts" only. Speedometer is dead solid at around 600 RPM. I can "feel" the engine running steady from the car cabin. Is it normal to be able to feel the engine running from the car cabin???


What else can I do, guys? Do I have to replace the whole ignition/fuel injector wiring harness (part # 12517556871) if I want to eliminate the SES from lighting up on cold starts? Do I need to code the fuel injector after I replaced it (N52 engine)? Please show me the light. :-)
RealOEM.com * BMW E60 530i Cable harness injection valve/ignition


Thanks!


Daniel

pcy

Dan, sorry to hear you are continuing to have that problem.

Is that clip on the ignition coil broken? That clip holds the ignition coil tight in it's place.

E60I

Hey Pcy,

Hope all is well, buddy!

I disconnected it to make the new wires (white ones) look more noticeable when I snapped the pictures. No, the clip is definitely not broken nor loose during times of inspection and testing.

SES pops up as the idle comes down to around 600 RPM "on cold starts only". Sometimes when I "really pay attention", I can feel a "tiny hiccup" before the light comes on. Other than that, car runs strong and no SES coming on while I drive hard or normal; even in rough/bumpy road conditions.

Thanks!