Hello,
Been a member for nearly a month and have found a lot of information that helped me as I was learning/diagnosing my 530i and really appreciate everyone that has posted possible things to look for. With that said, I followed advice from different threads and purchased the Carly and even upgraded it so I can use if for other vehicles and get technical help.
Before I ask my question/s a bit of my background-
My parents were military cooks following restaurant cooks for 20+ as well as Pharmacist for another 25 and never worked with their hands, other than planting a garden that they seemed to have to do every month during the summertime, in case you don't know summer here is 3 weeks... jk lol. No green thumb in this family! As such I followed into Restaurants for 25 years and then auto sales for 10. So, no green thumb and my hands are still as they were when I came out of my mom's womb, although bigger.... . Also, I have searched for this answer, but it may be pretty obvious (which would make it worst case scenario and expected to see) or just not common...?

I recently purchased my BMW due to totaling my '18 LS 500 (Christmas Eve last year, long story but still an ongoing lawsuit, you may assume the heckling. I sold Toyota's so I know the reason for the comments that may come ) Thought process was to buy something that I can drive a couple years until things were finalized and I can get a new car. I looked at different manufacturers, obviously Toyota and Lexus were first, but I "just" needed a "quick fix" to my car situation and as everyone knows, milage of 150k+ for a Toyota Camry is still around $8-$10K and the ES was even more. So, I looked at others and ran into this 07 BMW 530i with 141k miles on it. I looked up reviews, forums, even CoPilot so I was not without a bit of knowledge of potential issues. However, it was still the safest bet in terms of BMW for the money I wanted to spend and the size I needed. Other possibilities were Audi's though I felt the A4 to small, Volvo S80, and I will end the list here as you could guess the rest...
I met up with the private party seller, I drove the car and did not feel anything abnormal, however, I may have only driven it for about a mile . I scanned the car through the Provisions app we use at work to check for quick carfaqs info and did not see "red flags", possible yellow flags due to maintenance which the seller said he had done most himself for the 2 years he owned it. That didn't concern meat the time since 2 years to me in Toyota world is nothing.... So I did not ask for documented proof.... Plus I planned on an oil change, coolant flush, spark plugs, etc. since its private sale. (Yeah.... that was my thinking)

I do apologize for the long-winded post, there are questions I assure you. I have been having quite a few things pop up that either I feel while driving or is super noticeable, like when the car won't start. I ordered the Carly and set it up and started reading the codes, I have not since reset the codes so the questions revolving those I will ask after I reset them, scan for them again, research on here for my answers, then ask if needed.

So, my question is: While going through the codes currently there, I noticed the miles are......not right...? or that they are but I somehow missed it on the Provisions read out? I have attached pictures for reference and was hoping someone can shed some light on this, not expecting good news, as you may have noticed in my post so far, I love banging my head against walls as it is... LOL

 

Hope this is ok, figure since this may have stumped people and thus no responses, so figure I would just add to the thread the things that pop up they have me concerned including the codes I get from Carly.
Quick info of things that I have noticed first couple weeks of owning the car:
1.rough idle (AutoZone scan came up P0012)
2.starts/dies instantly (multiple times in past 4 weeks since owning the car I have had the battery, alternator, and starter tested once at AutoZone, once at O'Reilly's, a few times by me after purchasing multimeter, and finally at Les Schwab whom I would recommend over the before mention as the others told me my car was still running though I had the key fob in my pocket and it doesn't even have a battery in it)
3. crazy rpm cold start (after researching, it could be multiple things that had me thinking I should start with the parasitic drain that was found after pulling the body control module fuse out, more on that later)
4. harsh acceleration, then...
5 slow accelerations (no limp yet thankfully but this could be part of Vanos, basic maintenance like spark plugs and coils, or a bigger problem if I'm not mistaken)
6. Constant Coolant top off (found leak from the {vent pipe?} it goes from the expansion tank, along the top of the radiator and then elbows into the radiator on the driver's side. After fighting with my 70yo father-in-law {the grandpa that screams GM/Ford products are superior to every other manufacturer} who decided to cut just after the crack and reclasp it together and install it back into the car. The location of the crack was on the hose that went into the radiator but was 1-1 1/2" from the where it connects to the steadier skinny pipe. That small amount taken off made it not be secured in place since now it only latched into 1 of the 3 latches (not actual term sorry) Of course this busted.... but I was only out $7 since I just needed a couple new clamps. Called BMW, I ordered the vent pipe, expansion tank cap (saw a break on the center areas edge) and the expansion tank itself (no dip stick plus you all scared me into it). Three days later got it installed!
7. Oil top off (had for a month, did oil change with BMW oil and filter, cage still intact and replaced O rings that came with filter, topped it with 3q two times already)

About 2 weeks after I got the car, I experienced my first no start, father-in-law has a charger that would start higher and would continuously lower the amount it would send, making a very long wait for the needle to settle at the near off range. Again, my vocab for this is like kindergarten level. As I mentioned above, everything checked out fine (battery is 2 years old and although I cannot remember the brand, it was brought up on a few forums I found in my research). This issue has happened many times, and every time I get it back running a new error would come up and then go away once the batter was fully charged/ "reset." I had an error for transmission malfunction, tire pressure, navigation, engine fault, abs, battery, etc. Generally, after the battery was fully charged (12.5+) I would hook it back to the car and start it, all be it with some awful looking rpm needle dance. But after a minute it would level out and be drivable. Also, the battery would drop to 11.3 (ish) and go back above 14.2 within 15 secs when the car is started.

On Sunday, I took the family to a local derby, well not local for us as we drove nearly 2 hours to get there. about 10 mins from our location oil light came on. We watched the derby, drove 5 mins to get oil, topped it off and headed back home. 10 mins later coolant level low error... This hurt since I did not see any signs while installing the vent pipe, but every forum says, "do it all at once then you won't have to do it again." Smart enough to keep BMW coolant in my car as well as clean water but even after just 10 mins driving, that thing was so hot we had to wait half hour just be able to open the cap. We made the 1.5-hour drive back with no issues.

The next day I went to get dye kit to see about the leak. I got in my car and got the transmission malfunction message again. I did a quick loop around our neighborhood to see if I felt anything from the tranny while also hoping the alternator would assist charging it. I didn't feel much if anything at all but was not willing to drive it above 35mph. When I returned to the house, I parked the car to grab the charger but did not turn off the car. When I got back into the car to move it closer it would not come out of park. Thinking it would be similar to previous times, I grabbed a longer extension cord and hooked the charger to the battery. I did not unhook the battery at this point since the car did start so thought unhooking it was a bit overkill. I left for the dye kit in another car, came back, put it in, turned on car and let it sit for 15 mins. When it was time, I didn't see much at first, but then my saw a small splash and verted my eyes to the area. No drip, so started looking further into down and I had pushed a hose to a side just a bit to see below it since I saw a lot of coolant in that area. next thing I knew I was standing in coolant and luckily my wife's eyes was still locked onto where she saw the splash because right above it was the hose that was leaking. The hose going from the valve cover to the thermostat is connected by a plastic flange that holds it in place at the cover and this had melted and become brittle to where a little push and pull will snap it. I assure you there was far more than a little push and pull when I was installing the new tank. Seriously though, why is this flange plastic? Anyway, first concern is moving this thing. After an hour my wife checked it and of course car started, but error still there. Had her unhook battery and keep it on charger (I was not there but charger was still sitting at about 4amps when she started the car, and past experience tells me the battery was still too low and the car only started because charger was still on it) for a couple hours, essentially resetting the battery. I got back four hours later, tested battery, it was good, hooked it up, started the car, still can't get out of park. I needed to move the car as it was in the street, turned to you tube and found the car has a way to get to neutral. Got it moved, unhooked battery, and called it a night.

Next day, feeling refreshed and ready to go, I grabbed some tools and headed to the car. I removed the old flange, took a part number from Rock auto and luck was on my side as AutoZone had one in stock, I spent $4 more since Rock auto shipping charge was $5 and 5 days later but was able to get that and new clamp. After, I decided now would be a good time to check other things since the other night I had the oil problem. I opened the oil cap and noticed something very odd. It was dry.... I can only assume the Oil Monster from FernGully stole it.
Currently I am nearly done taking the valve cover off so I can inspect the gaskets

I still have a lot more to do and check out, this is literally the first time I've worked on a car, literally first oil change and I am currently taking engines apart. I know the veterans may be cringing right now, but if you don't just get in there and do it you won't learn. I have read so much, watch so many videos but I have taken far more pictures than any of those. I appreciate any knowledge I get, questions, comments, concerns, even poke fun of.

Codes (was unable to reset but believe most if not all are recent/current. As soon as I can get some oil in the car and can start it, I will reset and get a new read on it so I can post it.

00D904
Description: CAS: K-CAN line fault
Issue category: Heater and Air Conditioning
00A0B2
Description: CAS: Supply, terminal 30E/30L
Issue category: Brake
00D907
Description: CAS: K-CAN communication fault
00A0B4
Description: CAS: Engine start, starter operation
Issue category: Engine Electrical System
OOAOBO
Description: CAS: Input, brake lights, implausible
00A41A
Description: KBM: Voltage, power window drive, rear passenger's side
00A44A
Description: KBM: Voltage, power window drive, rear driver's side
00A418
Description: No hall A heart window passenger-side
00E5C4
Description: CID, K-CAN: line fault
Issue category: Engine
002E83
Description: DME: Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation
Issue category: Engine
002A32
Description: DME: Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: reference
00CDA1
Description: Message error (steering wheel angle, OxC4), DME receiver, DSC / SZL transmitter
002ADO
Description: No message from transmission control unit, receiver DME, transmitter EGS / SMG / DKG
00CDA8
Description: Message (status, instrument panel, 0x1B4) faulty, receiver DME, transmitter KOMBI Issue category:
Engine Electrical System (More details in Smart Mechanic)
002E8E
Description: BSD, message; intelligent battery sensor (IBS): Missing
Issue category: Vehicle Electrical Systems (More details in Smart Mechanic)
002A1A
Description: DME: Tank-venting system, function
0093D0
Description: Heated passenger side defective
Issue category: Vehicle Electrical Systems
009408
Description: Supply voltage - undervoltage in PDC / ECO error converter (electrically controlled orifice) / Supply voltage - undervoltage during PDC
Issue category: Vehicle Trim
009E39
Description: PDC: Wire, ultrasonic sensor, front center left
Issue category: Distance Systems
00951A
Description: SZL: Undervoltage
Issue category: Vehicle Electrical Systems (More details in Smart Mechanic)
00D2C4
Description: CA: K-CAN line fault

 

Update on my 530i, if its cool with monitors I could use this as a progress thread and have actual questions that may arise at the end of each update.

So I was able to get the valve cover and intake manifold out, went from doing an oil change 3 weeks ago to removing things I didn't even know how to spell until two days ago.
I have pictures of the work when I accomplish a task deemed above my experience. I have been working on this for about 4 days and have just now removed the cover and manifold, I can imagine some wondering why so long. I did things in very small pieces; like removing the plastic covers, air filter, etc. consisted of me watching 2+ videos of my specific model (YouTubers getting paid this month ) Even after the videos I would keep one going so i was doing it as if directed. When that small piece was done i would spend time watching videos for the next are to tackle. Those professionals made everything look easy, and not that I expected this to be cake, but I did not see them sweat mean while I could have filled a pool, and I am not much of a sweater. I had hard time removing the intake coils for example. Tose things are suctioned on so much that even sliding a flathead in there, certain ones still tried to be stubborn and did not want to release. I do have to replace 4 of the bottom pieces to them as they refused to come up with the coils and I could never find a video on how to remove them is that happened (I actually ran across one yesterday, but this was still day 1). for what I believe was 6 or so hours I tried to unhook the crankcase ventilation hose from rear of valve cover due to the space given to pinch the connector. I do not know if the positioning of my clip is normal or if someone threw it on not realizing how awkward it is but I had to use a flat head to try to get under the clip a bit to reach none of the pressure points which made hard to put pressure on the other and pull the hose at the same time. I ended up breaking the clip, but really that's not the real issue, the 6 hours I spent trying to unclip it was a waste as when I was trying to remove the cover, I must pushed it to the side a bit too hard and it snapped like a twig.

Dont even want to discuss the intact manifold, I spent the last 2. days trying to get that thing out of there. I could never figure out how to get around the Oxygen sensor connectors or how to place them so they do not get damaged while my inexperienced clumsy hands were flailing around them I had a hard time removing the return hose, but at least I did not have to worry about the vent hose since I busted it before then... And I must have messed something up in regard to pulling the junction box out to make the job of getting the manifold out easier because I started that at 2 pm pst yesterday and like I said I just got that out!

Anyways, so questions I have and some photos


Wiring harness, wish the rest was this easy…

So the gasket feels like it’s metal, bends like it too. Find that to be pretty odd. Is there something that goes between that and the block? Planning on replacing it anyways, I believe there will be more votes for getting original BMW parts and not third party? Also, as I was cleaning the cover ( the picture shows prior to cleaning) I noticed it looked as if there was a bit of rust in it. Would cleaning it be enough to not worry afterwards? If so, recommendation for cleaner? Was using brake cle.

I don’t think this thing has been cleaned in years! In case the green bag confuses people, i put one on the correct connecting wire for when I put it back together.


When I was finally able to get the intake manifold out I had a few drops of oil falll.

At first I was worried about the oil but it seems it may not be to bad. What do you guys think? Also, should I clean this up a bit? If so, is the cleaner I use for valve cover going to be ok?


Couple extra pics



This is a bit concerning as at first glance I thought it was shining

I took a paper towel to it and wiped a bit up, I don’t see any shaving but I don’t have a magnet on hand right now so will grab one tomorrow and check again.

More pics

 

Your engine looks clean for the miles. They all get like that with the rust look. The gasket is just old. They are and should be rubber. You don't have to go BMW and if you don't be sure to go OEM. Gaskets are gaskets just get a known brand. Things that make the car run is what's important to be OEM or BMW. Your PCV system having oil is normal just change out the system and it'll be fine. You could clean it up a bit.

 

Thanks for the reply and information, really appreciate it. Seems that what I need to be concentrating on are the connections and the control units themselves since, other than normal high mile maintenance needs and a good polish, the engine is in fairly decent condition. Thats good news for sure, but man I think I would rather deal with the engine than electrical stuff

While I have it all taken apart, and since my knowledge is mere videos, is there something that I should consider checking/doing prior to putting it back together (not to include checking/fixing causes for the faults)?

Thanks again