BMW owner beware
07-28-2011, 09:03 AM
#31
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I purchased the replacement aluminum head bolts there are 4 of them. These bolts are located in front part of the head. 1 is located outside under the intake manifold. The other 3 are located under the valve cover. I can let you know that all 3 of longer aluminum screws have broken/failed. The one under the intake can be seen without disassembling anything.(Look near the oil filter directly under the intake runner for cylinder one) You should have a torx bolt. If you do not see the torx head and see a broken stud in a machined hole, I would worry because the other screws might have failed as well. 3 bolts are approximately 2 1/2 to 3 inches long and the shorter one is about 1 1/2 inches.
My original concern was over torquing, now I more inclined to believe it is the excess pressures being exerted on the longer screws causing the bolt heads to break off. The shorter bolt is located on the left side by the timing chain guide and that one is still intact in the motor. Aluminum and magnesium are expanding at a different rate and the longer shaft bolts are breaking. The majority/all of the pressure is being placed directly on the head, I used a left handed drill bit to extract the broken studs and they came out with just a slight pressure from the bit spinning counter clockwise. Again, I do not know if this is a common problem, but I have contacted the NHTSA and the BBB so this can be looked into. This may be more wide spread than an issolated incident. BMWNA has not attempted or just refused to contact with me about the situation.
I'm going to replace the bolts with a high grade/tensile strength aluminum bolts. Since I was a former mechanic and vehicle electronics specialist, I was able to trouble shoot and repair this myself. Other consumers may not be so fortunate and have to pay any where from $4K and up to $15K depending on how honest their mechanics are. I'm into this fix for about $600 in new BMW parts, 10-15 man hours, several more oil changes are ready to flush out the metal throw off, and $1200 in additional tools added to work on any future BMW problems.(includes clone GT1/OPS scanner/timing tools/snake camera/e-torx/torx/large metric sockets)
My original concern was over torquing, now I more inclined to believe it is the excess pressures being exerted on the longer screws causing the bolt heads to break off. The shorter bolt is located on the left side by the timing chain guide and that one is still intact in the motor. Aluminum and magnesium are expanding at a different rate and the longer shaft bolts are breaking. The majority/all of the pressure is being placed directly on the head, I used a left handed drill bit to extract the broken studs and they came out with just a slight pressure from the bit spinning counter clockwise. Again, I do not know if this is a common problem, but I have contacted the NHTSA and the BBB so this can be looked into. This may be more wide spread than an issolated incident. BMWNA has not attempted or just refused to contact with me about the situation.
I'm going to replace the bolts with a high grade/tensile strength aluminum bolts. Since I was a former mechanic and vehicle electronics specialist, I was able to trouble shoot and repair this myself. Other consumers may not be so fortunate and have to pay any where from $4K and up to $15K depending on how honest their mechanics are. I'm into this fix for about $600 in new BMW parts, 10-15 man hours, several more oil changes are ready to flush out the metal throw off, and $1200 in additional tools added to work on any future BMW problems.(includes clone GT1/OPS scanner/timing tools/snake camera/e-torx/torx/large metric sockets)
07-28-2011, 12:42 PM
#32
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I never had any problems with our e60 except for the airbag light and a window trim until now. The car has 85,047 miles on it and was still running great until the bolt head broke.
07-28-2011, 06:13 PM
#33
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My Ride: 2008 535i
At least you are able to fix it yourself, which is very commendable. I tear down my motorcycles to the last nut, bolt, and snap ring but, I have no experience working on BMW's.
It's pretty obvious that you're going to have issues getting this covered by BMW since you're 35,000 miles out of warranty. Best of luck getting it back up and running again.
It's pretty obvious that you're going to have issues getting this covered by BMW since you're 35,000 miles out of warranty. Best of luck getting it back up and running again.
07-29-2011, 06:38 AM
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I'm located in the central valley in sunny California. BMWNA did respond by email and stated a customer service rep will contact me shortly. I'm not asking them to cover anything that would be a normal or routine maintenance issue. If this is a widespread problem, something should be done. If it is just one of those freak of nature occurance, I'm buying several lotto tickets since I'm one of the lucky few. I'll keep everyone updated on what happens with this and the outcome of my 5 when I have it back together. I spent several hours with the snake camera looking for the other broken screw head with no luck. I'm doing my best to avoid all of the hours involved with dropping the oil pan.
07-31-2011, 07:12 AM
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Another update: A BMW customer service representative contacted me. The rep stated it looks like I know what I'm doing and that I have figured it out. Their recommendation was to take it to the dealer to have them look at it. I was told there would most likely be a cost that I would have to incur it. After BMW looks at it, they can make a determination.....Yeah, waranty expired, it was exactly what you said was wrong with the car, and here is your bill. I ordered a bunch of parts from Triesher BMW (getbmwparts.com) and they have excellent prices. They are about 25-35% lower than my local dealership.
08-07-2011, 06:38 PM
#37
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Well, the 2006 525i is all back together. I spent several days getting it in time and adjusted properly. Cleaned the car engine and bay thoroughly. If anyone need any help breaking down thier 5 series, I have become very intimate with it. I know most of the tricks of taking it apart and getting it back together.
The 2007 335i, I took it to Eastbay BMW and they took it in and replaced the injectors and fuel pump. It is smooth and no more misfires.
My 2005 325xi, one last quick repair to the termostat and all three are up and running.
The 2007 335i, I took it to Eastbay BMW and they took it in and replaced the injectors and fuel pump. It is smooth and no more misfires.
My 2005 325xi, one last quick repair to the termostat and all three are up and running.
08-09-2011, 10:53 AM
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Thanks for the updates. I'm relatively new on the forum & want to make sure that this is due to the design of the N52 & not the M54.
To the best of my knowledge, my 2005 530i has the M54.
I've got a 98 Jeep Wrangler that I've about put back together after pulling the head to deal with a broken exhaust manifold bolt & leaky freeze plugs. Since it is a 4-cylinder, that is a relatively simple job. I shudder to think about pulling the head on a 6 cylinder with more computers in the tires than the Jeep has in the entire chassis/engine!
I just did the front brakes & now I've got the reset to do on the maintenance flags (already searched that "how-to"). Plugs show ~900 miles & oil 2100, so I'll be into those soon enough!
To the best of my knowledge, my 2005 530i has the M54.
I've got a 98 Jeep Wrangler that I've about put back together after pulling the head to deal with a broken exhaust manifold bolt & leaky freeze plugs. Since it is a 4-cylinder, that is a relatively simple job. I shudder to think about pulling the head on a 6 cylinder with more computers in the tires than the Jeep has in the entire chassis/engine!
I just did the front brakes & now I've got the reset to do on the maintenance flags (already searched that "how-to"). Plugs show ~900 miles & oil 2100, so I'll be into those soon enough!
08-09-2011, 11:04 AM
#39
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If you look at the window sticker on any Lexus it says "Toyota Corporation of Japan". And if you look at any infniti it says "Nissan Corporation of Japan". Toyota makes Lexus, Nissan makes Infiniti, they are all made from the same parts as their lower priced counter parts. And keep flaunting your ignorance buddy, there were many affected G35's and still are today. They don't make the G35 in the U.S. As a matter of fact, the only car that Infiniti makes in the U.S is the QX. But please keep on posting. Your display of ignorance is quite amusing 
..
..... built exclusively in Japan? Ask your mommy, maybe she can show you on a map where Japan is located. I can save you some trouble and tell you that is not part of North America. I'll leave you to figure out the rest
....... built exclusively in Japan? Ask your mommy, maybe she can show you on a map where Japan is located. I can save you some trouble and tell you that is not part of North America. I'll leave you to figure out the rest
@OP good to hear things are up and running. I loved my 525!! Well.. briefly lol
10-07-2011, 11:32 AM
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This is what Mr. Brown wrote me.
H. Chi --- Did BMW ever respond? If so, I would like to learn what the result was. I have the same problem.
I have a 2006 530 with the N52 engine. Last year, I had a severe oil leak in the front of the engine. The BMW dealer took a look and discovered a broken cylinder head bolt near the oil filter. The estimate to repair (a complete head gasket replacement) was about $3500. After being turned down for an out-of-warranty repair, I took a stab at replacing the broken bolt myself. That fixed the oil leak.
Fast forward to today - - I was replacing my valve cover gasket (another small oil leak) and noticed that there were three other bolts broken off in the same manner as the first one. Turns out there are 4 aluminum bolts that hold the front of the cylinder head to the block (around the valve train galley). One is external; the other three are under the valve cover.
I plan to contact BMWNA on Monday and would like to know if you has any luck.
Thanks,
Brown
H. Chi --- Did BMW ever respond? If so, I would like to learn what the result was. I have the same problem.
I have a 2006 530 with the N52 engine. Last year, I had a severe oil leak in the front of the engine. The BMW dealer took a look and discovered a broken cylinder head bolt near the oil filter. The estimate to repair (a complete head gasket replacement) was about $3500. After being turned down for an out-of-warranty repair, I took a stab at replacing the broken bolt myself. That fixed the oil leak.
Fast forward to today - - I was replacing my valve cover gasket (another small oil leak) and noticed that there were three other bolts broken off in the same manner as the first one. Turns out there are 4 aluminum bolts that hold the front of the cylinder head to the block (around the valve train galley). One is external; the other three are under the valve cover.
I plan to contact BMWNA on Monday and would like to know if you has any luck.
Thanks,
Brown