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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 05:06 AM
  #11  
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pcy
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From: Boston
My Ride: '06 530i, '07 C280 4matic, '98 ML320
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Originally Posted by E60I
...
Pcy, if I can get this done, I think I am going to need your help again with the engine mounts. I'll do some research first before I start asking stupid questions. lol
Engine mounts replacement wasn't bad. As you raise the engine, engine cover will touch the strut tower braces. It's wise to start the project with raising the front end (ramps), remove the cabin filters, surrounding trim, strut tower braces, then start raising the engine slowly.

For the drivers side, you can replace the engine mount from the top after removing the air filter box. It'll be readily available for you.

On the passenger side, there isn't enough room for the mount to come out from the top, so you'll have to do it from the bottom. Undo the one nut and two bolts from the top and then replace the mount from bottom. You may want to drop the sway bar for more clearance. While you are working on the waterpump/thermostat, you can see how much clearance you have on the passenger side for the engine mount replacement.

It'll make it easier if you remember [or take a picture] of the orientation of the mounts prior to removing them.

Last edited by pcy; Jan 8, 2014 at 05:08 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 07:06 AM
  #12  
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From: SOCAL
My Ride: 2006 BMW 530I
Model Year: 530i
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Thanks, Pcy!

Since we have the same year, make and model, can you please confirm if the correct way to raise the engine is to use the hydraulic jack to push it up from the oil pan?

After gaining more knowledge by reading your instructions, I found this: DIY: Replacing Motor / Engine Mounts with Pics - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums

Have a great day, buddy!

Originally Posted by pcy
Engine mounts replacement wasn't bad. As you raise the engine, engine cover will touch the strut tower braces. It's wise to start the project with raising the front end (ramps), remove the cabin filters, surrounding trim, strut tower braces, then start raising the engine slowly.

For the drivers side, you can replace the engine mount from the top after removing the air filter box. It'll be readily available for you.

On the passenger side, there isn't enough room for the mount to come out from the top, so you'll have to do it from the bottom. Undo the one nut and two bolts from the top and then replace the mount from bottom. You may want to drop the sway bar for more clearance. While you are working on the waterpump/thermostat, you can see how much clearance you have on the passenger side for the engine mount replacement.

It'll make it easier if you remember [or take a picture] of the orientation of the mounts prior to removing them.
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 08:50 AM
  #13  
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pcy
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From: Boston
My Ride: '06 530i, '07 C280 4matic, '98 ML320
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Originally Posted by E60I
Thanks, Pcy!
Since we have the same year, make and model, can you please confirm if the correct way to raise the engine is to use the hydraulic jack to push it up from the oil pan?
Yea, I used a hydraulic jack placed under the lower oil pan, and I used a piece of 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan. Removed the two nuts holding the engine to the mounts. Slowly raised the engine watching around the engine.

I bought this engine support bar. But there wasn't enough room between that bar and the engine to actually support/raise engine. I just placed it there and attached the chain just in case the jack dropped down by accident.
1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 11:41 AM
  #14  
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From: SOCAL
My Ride: 2006 BMW 530I
Model Year: 530i
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Thanks, Pcy!

I think I am going to enjoy the engine mounts project much more than the water pump/thermostat's. lol

As far as car vibrations is concern, it's amazing how a simple short circuit of a tiny electrical wire(s) of an ignition coil plug can do just that!




Originally Posted by pcy
Yea, I used a hydraulic jack placed under the lower oil pan, and I used a piece of 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan. Removed the two nuts holding the engine to the mounts. Slowly raised the engine watching around the engine.

I bought this engine support bar. But there wasn't enough room between that bar and the engine to actually support/raise engine. I just placed it there and attached the chain just in case the jack dropped down by accident.
1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 02:16 AM
  #15  
E60I's Avatar
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From: SOCAL
My Ride: 2006 BMW 530I
Model Year: 530i
Default With your help, I think I am ready to do this. :-)

Hey guys,

I really don't want to break what's not broken! At the same time, I want to replace the water pump and thermostat before I get stranded on the road at around 82,000 miles on the car.

After looking at all the hoses, I am starting to get dizzy and unsure. Can someone with good eyes and more experience (than me) look at the attached link/pics and please tell me what this hose (see red arrow) is? If I disconnect it, do I simply refill the power steering reservoir with CHF 11S and bleed it after I reconnect it? Do I need to put any kind of liquid gasket or sealer on the screw? Are there anything other steps that I should know or do?

And yes, I have seen other threads and video about replacing a water pump on an N52 engine. Unfortunately, my car does not come with the rubber hoses that can bend and be set aside like the samples I saw. Thanks for your understanding! ;-)

RealOEM.com * BMW E60 530i Power steering/oil pipe/dynamic drive

Thanks!

Daniel
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Last edited by E60I; Jan 15, 2014 at 02:37 AM.
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