yanik

I know please do your research etc... well I have and I see a plethora of reasons it could be. I am no mechanic but i am somewhat car savvy. Any steps any other tests anything would help please.

Specs:
2006 530xit 60k Miles

Problem:
The car would not start last night. Everything in the car comes on without codes or faults so then I disconnect the battery for 20 min then tested the voltage (11.7 reading).

I charged the battery and got it fully charged. After the charge and the disconnect of the battery I received 3 Malfunctions with still no start.

AWD and DSC malfunction!
Left Tail Lamp Malfunction!
Start-off assistance inactive!


*Update* would this mean that the SZL (Steering angle sensor) needs to be replaced? I have read a bit on the forum on this can this be fixed or replaced etc...?
Thank you so much and any help would be much appreciated.

sanjsanj

nope, a faulty SZL won't stop the car from starting
and 11.7 seems low for the battery voltage, should be 12.6v at 100% charge, see here: Automotive battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

it could be the starter, but you'd hear clicks, it doesn't go bad just like that usually

yanik

Whe I try to start there is a tick and then a slight humm almost sounds like the same humm like u get from the self leveling suspension. Would a bad starter throw all these malfunctions? Anyway to test the starter on these?

turboawd

you have symptoms of a bad battery.

BimmerFan52

+1 - Bad battery.

If you still have doubts try to jump start it (use terminals under the hood). If the car starts it is your battery. Then you need to determine if the battery is just at the end of its life, or if possibly the alternator is not charging it.

BMWs in general are such power hogs (lots of computers, sensors and accessories to power) that when the system voltage sags lots of strange things happen, including the ECU turning off systems via relays.

This is to protect the electrical system because as system voltage drops, power consumers (components that draw current) will tend to increase their current draw to keep their power draw steady. If not checked system conductors can be overloaded trying to carry too much current.

One of the relays commonly turned off to shed current load is located in the rear fuse center over the battery in the trunk, and is called the terminal 30g relay. It is a 1" X 1" black plastic box that powers part of the fuse block located in the glove box, and supplies power to number of systems including the transmission control module and dynamic stability control system. This is likely why you are getting system fault lights.

Once you get the car running you should also check the system voltage to see if the alternator is supplying enough current to stabilize the system voltage at around 14.3V.

If you don't have the equipment or knowledge to test your electrical system nearly any auto parts store will test your battery and alternator for free.

yanik

Well... This is just frustrating.... I live really close to an advanced so I thought what the hell I ordered a new battery online and had to bring it in as a core. Figured I would have them run a test on it first. Well the test ran and shows the following:

Results:
Voltage: 12.35V
Measured: 694 CCA
Temp: 71F

I am having them do a full recharge on their machine. Canceled my online order for the time being.

Its gotta be the starter!?

* I did a quick charge using my Schumacer charger and thats why it tested higher today.

H F

Try this first , It may or may not be the problem , but it's an easy thing to try before you commit to thinking it's the starter , and have to rule out any ways . Disconnect the IBS cable from the negative battery terminal and see if it starts ..

yanik

Going to pick up the battery in a few min and I will try that thanks! The battery is original from 2006... should it be replaced anyway??

turboawd

Oh my god! That is definetly your problem.

H F

8 year old battery ! . Wonder if that's A world record lol ! .. My original battery only lasted 21/2 yrs