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My Ride: E60 2005 545i Sport Black Sapphire Shadowline Trim 18" Style 124 Staggered Rims LM2 Upgrade
Model Year: 2005
Originally Posted by States02
Hello, new here and newish BMW owner. Have a 07 550i that has 127k. I thought I was getting a deal when I purchase for around $3500 around 2 years ago to use as a second car, everything worked, looked great and ran strong..but seems this car wants about $4k from me every 6 months or so. I did a battery Coils, Plugs when I bought it. Veh turned into a daily for my wife and within that year had to go with a New/Rebuilt Trans as developed a 1st gear issue, 5 months ago spent a few grand to have some oil leak issues taken care of, still leaves drops! Started the smoke screen over the summer and shop requested the valve seal replacement for for almost $4k(found an additive that works but know it wont forever!), Its developed a nice wiggle in the steering wheel while braking over the summer and now have a brake pedal like stone. Reason I joined this site- as I try to figure out what can do to resolve that!?!?
Sucks that such a beautiful modern looking car with nice performance is so dam needy! I'd sell it but don't know how as its such a money hole..
How many miles ago were the front and rear brake pads replaced? Did you replace the rotors or have them cut? If you're driving then step on the brake pedal and you feel the steering wheel shaking and jittering back and forth it's possible your front rotors are warped or your pads are unevenly worn. They recommend doing a brake bedding process when installing new pads at least with the sport package.
Did pads on all 4 corners when purchased and have less than 10k on them. Rotors at time were good. This doesnt feel like rotor warp...this is more extreme feeling. Was told by my local BMW guy its probably within the suspension...Replaced tires in June and had alignment done and nothing was mentioned?? Plan to get in the air this weekend and poke around...and hopefully find where the new oil leak is coming from!! Also thinking of replacing the Brake booster myself, replacement appears cut and dry, a little worried about possible issues with bleeding them? Book says need BMW scanner, locals say not necessary and similar to other vehicle booster replacements..I've done a few over the years...but first BMW. Any guidance is welcome.
My Ride: E60 2005 545i Sport Black Sapphire Shadowline Trim 18" Style 124 Staggered Rims LM2 Upgrade
Model Year: 2005
If it's not warped rotors then you might have something going on with your suspension or alignment. Are all 4 tires the same tread? Does it happen when you are cruising or only when applying the brakes? What do you mean the pedal feels like a stone? Bleeding the brakes can be done normally but I think there's also a procedure outlined in ista that assists with it somehow. Pro tip...when you do your oil changes you should also remove as much fluid as you can in your coolant/power steering/brake fluid resivoir with a hand pump or turkey blaster then replace with fresh fluids so you don't need to flush the system every 2 years.
Tire wear is pretty similar all around although looks like some slight cupping on the front. The shudder feel is more noticeable under hard braking, Just drove it to return a battery core for Daughters Honda and ordered the brake booster. Last night spent a few hours checking vacuum, Pump sucking hard at pump in rhythm and at end of hose as its supposed to, replaced press style hose clamp by the pump valve, checked all the check valves on pump, booster and in the line while off(blew through and only 1 way possible as it's supposed to..booster was holding pressure as I removed the vacuum line valve from it- I thought that was strange but never done that before and dont know what's normal? During the drive pedal feels somewhat normal but like pushing against a brick at lower RPM to get to stop. I don't mind the price or work to replace the booster, just don't want to throw anymore parts at this thing than necessary. If this doesn't fix it I will go to the pump next..but it appears a little more expensive.
My next repair was going to be a water pump, not that its failing but was told that should have been done at 100k and given the oil leaks I had would have to say not done. I am thinking to myself once this brake issue and oil leak is fixed I'm unloading, but I know it will be a hard sell w/the shudder and if I can fix that will probably fall back in love with it, want to keep, until the next issue!!
Thanks for the fluid check removal idea...Will begin that process this weekend.
I am thinking to myself once this brake issue and oil leak is fixed I'm unloading, but I know it will be a hard sell w/the shudder and if I can fix that will probably fall back in love with it, want to keep, until the next issue!!
Thanks for the fluid check removal idea...Will begin that process this weekend.
I (and now my son) have lived the "once X is fixed we will unload it" on our 200,000 mile 07 550i for years. We did the Liqui Moly Oil Saver as the cloud of smoke antidote for years then did the VSS replacement ourselves. When the starter went and my son spent a couple weekends getting grease and oil up to his armpits he was at his wits end. Replacement starter only lasted 9 months, so the car is sitting in the RV space while he commutes 45 miles each way to work in a lifted Bronco. MILEAGE!!! We had the suspension shudder and thought it was brakes. It wasn't. It was worn ball joints in the thrust arms and control arms. The originals are all done at 100k in many cases. Lemforder is my suggestion. When you replace all four control/thrust arms the "front end flush" restores that BMW driving experience.
Well the brake booster was a piece of cake, everything removes easily and simple bench bleed and pedal bleed had whole job done in 2 hrs! I have a oil leak, pretty severe around oil cooler lines. Everything up top is dry. Called the shop that did the other leaks and they said they will handle for me 1 day of work at $1000...for no more leaks, I told him if he confirms and owns them all, I will pay him to do it! Its a money I dont want to spend but I hate the leak so so bad..be nice to yell at someone else if it still leaks!
The suspension is getting worn..at minimum will need ball joints and control arm bushings..or replacement of all..may be better and easier as assemblies?!?! If I could make this my 2nd-3rd car I'd keep it and accept the challenges, but wife drives daily now as her SUV was totaled and kids tuition is going to keep her in a used car for a year or two...this doesnt seem like something that will enjoy that kind of use!!
Bought with 198k 7yrs ago, still enjoying, plan to keep fixing it and drive as long as possible. Enjoying Active steering, Dynamic drive (found ways to renew these elements). I think it is a better car than younger models. Also, Diesel is less problematic than Petrol engne, especially if You have experienced mechs around and a good sources of all possible spare parts 😉
Kind regards
2006 530xiT 6MT presently at 258K miles.
Original clutch, but starting to think it may be time after I drove my daughter's 2011 328i with 90K, her clutch was soooo light and felt so new. I'm starting to shop for parts.....
Just wondering when others replaced your clutch.
Up to now the normal maintenance for these cars:
Brake rotors and pads about 80K. This need to be done again this spring. Akebono Ceramic pads really last good.
Water pump, Thermostat, and Hoses about 178K.
Plugs a few times.
Serpentine Belt, tensioner, and idler pulley about 100K and again about 190K.
Brake fluid every 2-3 years.
One Coil at about 125K.
Struts and shocks (Bilsteins) at about 120K. Then replaced with Sachs about 160K since the front Bilstiens were making a popping noise that drove me crazy.
Front Tension strut Bushings and Control arms and Anti-roll bar links about 150K.
Valve cover and Oil Filter Housing gasket about 210K.
Front Main Seal at about 215K, but it was not leaking yet. I bought all the stuff and got in there to find out it was really the Oil Pan Gasket , so cleaned and sprayed some sealer on the oil pan gasket where it was leaking. Holding good so far but will need to replace the pan gasket eventually.
CCC crapped out about 205K, replaced with a used one from a salvage yard and coded.
Transfer Case Motor gear inside the transfer case failed, so I converted to RWD. Removed the VSCG Module, Front Propshaft, Front Drive shafts, and swapped out the ABS Module to make all the lights go away. RWD bliss now and +2-3 mpg.
Rear Hatch wiring harness repair about 140K and again about 255K (this time with a full R/H wiring replacement kit).
Probably a few more things I don't remember, but it is such a joy to drive. I plan on keeping it going for a long time.
98,000 miles . Starter was replaced, and a couple of minor things only. Still drives like new.
How did you get your LM2 working on your 04, i have an 03/04 build date a nd i cant get my LM2 working for AE angel eyes. they will work when i code it but then it stops working when i turn off the car a turn it back on..
Just hit 10 years of ownership of our 07 550i. We've run it from 65k miles to 215k miles. It's an awesome car, but the list of tasks outside of routine maintenance has been significant. The starter replacements, the VSS repair, the alternator bracket leak, the alternator are all seriously involved jobs. That N62 is a very tight fit and you have to remove a lot of other things to get to the aforementioned items.
The list below doesn't include the 10k mile oil and filter changes, the coolant changeouts, the brake fluid exchanges. Mostly (but not all) repairs with smog checks and odo photos thrown in for mileage reference points.
10-21-2021, 07:05 PM
Still Loving it at 258K
