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AC won’t run until engine is warmed up??

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Old 05-15-2023, 08:46 PM
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So my friend who codes is out but I have Carly and used that to scan and these are what came up. Not sure why they showed up under the airbag, but I do see an AUC fault:




Old 05-16-2023, 04:08 AM
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You have quite a few issues. I will go from to need right now to least.

1. 9C57: Blower motor resistor. Without this you're going to have a bad summer. Is it blowing intermittently or on one steady medium/slow speed. It's the first thing you need to fix. It's an all day job if you DIY it but can be done. I have done a few of them and it's not a bad job once you get done. You just have to take a lot apart.

2. 9C54 & 9C55: Condensation and AUC to me this is a need to replace because I like everything working as it should. I have had good success with cleaning the connector on the condensation sensor and it working but the AUX sensor has a life expectancy and should be replaced.

3. 9C77: Aux pump needs to be replaced before winter. It's what pumps the coolant to the heater valve to provide heat. Although your car will still have heat it will not be as hot as it should if the pump is not working properly. It's a common overlooked part.

4. I would recommend checking your heater valve also. You do this by getting your car up to operating temperature turn on your a/c and check the hoses coming from it to the firewall to see if they are hot. If any hoses are hot then the valve needs to be replaced. If it's never been replaced I can guarantee that it's malfunctioning. They usually go bad around the 10-12 year mark. This can also be a reason why your a/c is not cold as it should be. Not your reason but a reason so it's best to check to verify.

From the codes posted these 5 things will get you where you want to be for the summer and winter or at least a step closer pending their are no issues with the a/c system itself (low refrigerant, compressor issue, leaks, etc).
Old 05-16-2023, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by seanjordan20
You have quite a few issues. I will go from to need right now to least.

1. 9C57: Blower motor resistor. Without this you're going to have a bad summer. Is it blowing intermittently or on one steady medium/slow speed. It's the first thing you need to fix. It's an all day job if you DIY it but can be done. I have done a few of them and it's not a bad job once you get done. You just have to take a lot apart.

2. 9C54 & 9C55: Condensation and AUC to me this is a need to replace because I like everything working as it should. I have had good success with cleaning the connector on the condensation sensor and it working but the AUX sensor has a life expectancy and should be replaced.

3. 9C77: Aux pump needs to be replaced before winter. It's what pumps the coolant to the heater valve to provide heat. Although your car will still have heat it will not be as hot as it should if the pump is not working properly. It's a common overlooked part.

4. I would recommend checking your heater valve also. You do this by getting your car up to operating temperature turn on your a/c and check the hoses coming from it to the firewall to see if they are hot. If any hoses are hot then the valve needs to be replaced. If it's never been replaced I can guarantee that it's malfunctioning. They usually go bad around the 10-12 year mark. This can also be a reason why your a/c is not cold as it should be. Not your reason but a reason so it's best to check to verify.

From the codes posted these 5 things will get you where you want to be for the summer and winter or at least a step closer pending their are no issues with the a/c system itself (low refrigerant, compressor issue, leaks, etc).
So I did replace the resistor already, biggest headache I’ve ever had to do so that’s done.

I have a replacement AUC sensor coming so that will be replaced before the end of the week.

The condensation sensor is the piece I had posted above right? I can replace that next.

The third one I can worry about at the end of summer, but with the fourth one, if the valve is malfunctioning it would only affect the A/C not getting as cold as it should right, would it affect why my A/C doesn’t kick in right away?

My biggest thing right now is ensuring I have A/C as soon as I turn the vehicle on, so if replacing the AUC and condensation sensor theoretically should fix that I’m good with that for now. I can worry about the rest at the end of summer.

Last edited by kevesp; 05-16-2023 at 07:41 PM.
Old 05-18-2023, 01:45 AM
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To answer that question I'd have to know if the clutch is not engaging when it's supposed to. I hate an issue with hot car where in the summer it took about 15 mins for the car to start getting cool. The compressor was working but took a long time for the car to cool. I found that my valve was bad and replaced it and what do you know it worked a lot better. Since then I have replaced the whole a/c system because it wasn't getting as cold as I'd like. If mine doesn't hit 25 degrees at the vent then something is wrong to me even though industry standard is between 32-34 degrees.

Last edited by donpb; 05-18-2023 at 01:48 AM.
Old 05-18-2023, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by seanjordan20
If mine doesn't hit 25 degrees at the vent then something is wrong to me even though industry standard is between 32-34 degrees.
I fine-tuned the A/C in my Volvo V70 T5 so that the vent temps were well below freezing as well. In Arizona, it was like a rolling refrigerator and I felt like a genius. Then on my first roadtrip the entire system froze up solid about the time I hit St. Louis, and took a few hours to thaw out and start working again. I backed it off a notch after that. ;-)
Old 05-18-2023, 08:05 AM
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There's a technique to it. If my windows aren't frosty it's not right. Most of the time I hit around 20 degrees. I've never had a freezing issue. Did you move the refrigerant through the system while filling or you just filled it on cycle?
Old 05-19-2023, 09:15 AM
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I stuck a thermometer in the dash vent and watched the temperature (AC on high). I added tiny shots of gas until the air stopped getting colder.

I also pulled and partially insulated the sensor that measures the temperature in the AC / heater box in the dash (otherwise it would turn the AC off at 42°F IIRC).

The system worked perfectly (especially in Arizona) but I found that when I was somewhere where it was hot AND humid, it just caused ice to form on the evaporator until it was a solid chunk of ice (which makes sense - passing humid air over and through a metal device that's well below freezing). I just had to remove some of the "insulation" from the sensor so the air box temperature was limited to right around freezing. Still plenty cold, but I did miss those few extra degrees in Arizona!

I haven't gone to that kind of effort on my E61. When I got it, I was marginally disappointed by its AC (hey, what would a German know about hot weather anyway). Turns out that the gap between my radiator and the AC condenser was literally halfway filled up with leaves and other debris. I was amazed it worked at all (and that the car didn't overheat). After cleaning it out, the AC was really quite good, so I've left it alone (something I'm more prone to do with my BMW than other cars, knowing BMW's penchant for "doing things differently / more complicated). ;-)
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