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550i M Sport when pressing the gas pedal harder during driving

Old Feb 26, 2019 | 09:04 AM
  #1  
roadmax's Avatar
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My Ride: E60 550i
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Default 550i M Sport when pressing the gas pedal harder during driving

Normal cruising and only in situations when pressing the gas pedal harder (quicker) to accelerate the automatic downshift kicks in, noticing a short power cutoff for 1/4-1/2 second or so, head-up display blanks, speaker sound stops for this very short time.
When scanning it gives me codes:
Transmission / Getriebe GS 19
00CF2E -Invalid Data...
0051AA -Can Position Info ...
0050DC -Gear Position sensor ..

Head-Up Display
00A4EB -Board Supply overvolatge or undervoltage ...

ULF2_HI
00A9AC -Overvoltage on the control unit ...


Any advise what can be causing this?
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 08:04 AM
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My Ride: e60 n54 sport auto
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Engine: N54
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what does the alternator voltage look like? loaded and unloaded?
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Old Feb 27, 2019 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by GregFerd
what does the alternator voltage look like? loaded and unloaded?
Not sure if I fully understand this process but did the following:
Connected the voltmeter to engine bay battery + and - terminals, during engine idling it reads 14.9 V, very quick press on the gas pedal up to around 4K and it quickly drops to 14.35 V then raises to 15.45 V, this happens in less than 1/4 of a second then back to around 14.9 as engine idles.

Are there other methods to test?

Last edited by roadmax; Feb 27, 2019 at 08:56 PM. Reason: update
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Old Mar 3, 2019 | 06:03 AM
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this kinda happened to me right before my alternator went out - under heavy acceleration the car would cut out completely and come back with error codes across the board. i would highly recommend making sure all the connections to you battery are tight before your alternator gets damaged or before a fire starts (as was the case in my situation lol). for me it ended up being a loose connection from the alternator to the battery back in the trunk
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by captainfreezy
this kinda happened to me right before my alternator went out - under heavy acceleration the car would cut out completely and come back with error codes across the board. i would highly recommend making sure all the connections to you battery are tight before your alternator gets damaged or before a fire starts (as was the case in my situation lol). for me it ended up being a loose connection from the alternator to the battery back in the trunk
Where exactly was the loose connection?
How hard it was to reach that location?

I'm still puzzled by this, battery terminals also have IBS (intelligent battery sensor) on negative and BST (battery safety terminal) on positive side, one of them could be the cause but not fully clear yet.
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by roadmax
Where exactly was the loose connection?
How hard it was to reach that location?

I'm still puzzled by this, battery terminals also have IBS (intelligent battery sensor) on negative and BST (battery safety terminal) on positive side, one of them could be the cause but not fully clear yet.
in my case my loose connection was on the positive battery terminal where the fat alternator wire connects to the whole positive terminal connector “thing”. it bolts onto the screw on the connector that’s shown in the attached picture
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 07:37 PM
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i’d like to add that attaching pictures from my phone is tricky
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