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545i hydrolocked (well maybe)

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Old 09-23-2013, 01:05 PM
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Default 545i hydrolocked (well maybe)

I got my e60 545i 75% through 7inch puddle of water the other week (in Colorado). It stalled and couldn't start. It was turning fine, but there was no ignition at all as if there was no gas. So, I just changed the oil and it fired right back up, but ....there are problems.
I hooked up inpa and got some error codes, which essentially say that there is misfire on cylinder 1,3,4 and 8.
Of course the engine is rattling allover the place and it has no power, but I think I can manage to fix that.

The more worrisome problem that i have is the metal clicking noise, which is new. I'm little curious about this because a clear connection would a bent cylinder rod. But, the issue I have with this theory and I'm hoping someone can explain it more, is that the noise only happens when the engine is actually is running. During start (which takes about 30 seconds of turning) the noise doesn't appear. So, simply if it was bent rod wouldn't the clicking noise always happen even during the startup turning?

Secondly, I'm looking for an opinion on putting a used engine. I have found a nice engine from a running car with 30k less miles. Mine is manual, but the engine is from automatic. Would this be a problem? Also, have anyone had their engines replaced and can share any experience?

Thanks,
Old 09-23-2013, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by nicpon
I got my e60 545i 75% through 7inch puddle of water the other week (in Colorado). It stalled and couldn't start. It was turning fine, but there was no ignition at all as if there was no gas. So, I just changed the oil and it fired right back up, but ....there are problems.
I hooked up inpa and got some error codes, which essentially say that there is misfire on cylinder 1,3,4 and 8.
Of course the engine is rattling allover the place and it has no power, but I think I can manage to fix that.

The more worrisome problem that i have is the metal clicking noise, which is new. I'm little curious about this because a clear connection would a bent cylinder rod. But, the issue I have with this theory and I'm hoping someone can explain it more, is that the noise only happens when the engine is actually is running. During start (which takes about 30 seconds of turning) the noise doesn't appear. So, simply if it was bent rod wouldn't the clicking noise always happen even during the startup turning?

Secondly, I'm looking for an opinion on putting a used engine. I have found a nice engine from a running car with 30k less miles. Mine is manual, but the engine is from automatic. Would this be a problem? Also, have anyone had their engines replaced and can share any experience?

Thanks,
I've read of a few users swapping autos for manual but never the other way around. I'm sure it could be done but I haven't seen anything online.
Old 09-23-2013, 03:31 PM
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Hi Nicpon,

You dont have push rods as a traditional engine has. There are overhead cam engines with hydraulic lifters. There are so many parts in this particular engine, one could not possibly guess at the cause. If you beleive it is catastrophic, start with your baselines. Compression and leak down tests. This will tell you if you have any obvious issues. Its allot cheaper to have these tests done than guess that you need an engine.

To install an engine from an auto you would simply need to install the pilot bearing into the crankshaft end, pretty simple.
Old 09-23-2013, 03:46 PM
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You can replce it with an automatic but the mechanic is going to charge you twice the job cause there's a lot of trimming for fitting and engine mount bifference you. Can give it a try but I wouldn't recommend . Try getting the same engine my friend .
Old 09-23-2013, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by almandee26
You can replce it with an automatic but the mechanic is going to charge you twice the job cause there's a lot of trimming for fitting and engine mount bifference you. Can give it a try but I wouldn't recommend . Try getting the same engine my friend .
Can you please expand on why you believe an engine from an automatic will require "a lot of trimming for fitting and engine mount bifference you"?

I'm with Only Bimmers on this one. Sounds like an easy/simple job to me.

Last edited by west; 09-23-2013 at 03:59 PM.
Old 09-23-2013, 07:03 PM
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Today, I took out all spark plugs and turn the motor to blow out any water, but to my surprise there was none. Not even tiny bit blew out.

Then I put new spark plugs today, reset all errors and right now all cylinders, but one are firing. Cylinder 8 is misfiring as per the error code. I swapped the coil on 8th cylinder with one from 1st, clear the error and the misfiring error came again on the 8th one. So, something else is going on other than coils and spark plugs.

I'd like to think that the clicking noise is not coming from the rod or anything related to the crank shaft as there was no water in the cylinders.

Look at this video around second 50-56 as it sounds like the pressure is lost.

Also, clutch was fully in at 1:47 and 1:50. The noise gets little louder at those times. As I listen to the noise it seems to be coming from the intake manifold, but I could be totally off as metal has a weird way of carrying sound.

Any ides what could be this release of pressure around seconds 50-56?
Old 09-23-2013, 07:30 PM
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if you already ran the engine, and then remove the sparkplugs to find water, you wont find any since you would have evaporated/burned the water.

was there any water in the intake pipe and air filter when you removed it?

do a compression test on all cylinders. remove sparkplugs and insert pressure gauge, and crank to build pressure. must do this with ignition disabled.

if all the cylinders are the same pressure range, then get a stethoscope and try and probe for the sound.
Old 09-24-2013, 02:06 AM
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Nipcon,

There is no such thing as an automatic or manual engine. There is one engine for your car as described above.

Follow my instructions i gave. A compression check is not enough. You need to also do a leak down. A compression test will tell you if there is anything wrong with the piston, rings. A leak down will tell you if there is anything wrong with the valves. You may have bent a valve and that would explain the clanking noise. By running the car in this condition you could turn a moderate repair into a $10k+ repair.

This is my engine i am rebuilding currently. Heads are at the machine shop with worn guides and seals being replaced. Needed some minor machine work as well.


Last edited by Only Bimmers; 09-24-2013 at 02:14 AM.
Old 09-24-2013, 12:21 PM
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Changing the engine is on my very last thing to do. I think even if it was the same cost to fix mine I'd rather do this than put a different one. But, I'm glad to hear that it won't be problem if I can get my hands on the automatic one and fit it back in.

do a compression test on all cylinders. remove sparkplugs and insert pressure gauge, and crank to build pressure. must do this with ignition disabled.
How do disable the ignition via INPA?

You need to also do a leak down
I'm foreigner,so most english phrases with relation to cars are new to me. What do you mean by leak down?

I have one question about INPA. On one of the engine screens there is a cylinder roughness menu. What does this exactly measure ?


Originally Posted by Only Bimmers
This is my engine i am rebuilding currently. Heads are at the machine shop with worn guides and seals being replaced. Needed some minor machine work as well.
Wow you are a pro hands down!
Old 09-24-2013, 12:47 PM
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Nicpon,

You do not disable the ignition via INPA. You unplug and remove all of the coils and spark plugs and remove the fuses for the fuel pump.

Search google for "how to do a compression test" and "Leak down test" to see what this is. Generally you would use a special leak down tester and pressurize a cylinder with the valves fully closed and wait to see if it leaks. If it does then you have an issue with the head most likely. This doesn't mean it could not be another item, but gives you a basis to go off of.

The roughness test is showing you how well the particular cylinder is performing. High numbers equal poor combustion for one of many reasons. Most of the cylinders should be low, below 1 as i remember.

I am not a pro, but capable and spend allot of time learning and reading as well as asking questions. I believe if you have enough time, a second car, and the correct information that you can learn and do this as well.


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