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2008 LCI sport auto trans.

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Old 08-13-2007, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by curlytoons' post='458164' date='Aug 13 2007, 11:26 AM
My understanding is that the Dynamic Driving Control shifts occur at even higher speeds than when in normal sport mode (DS), a sort of super sport mode. Power steering assist is also reduced, giving more spontaneous response. So, the six discrete combos seems correct.

C
I agree...
Old 08-13-2007, 10:21 AM
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Out of curiosity, is there any way to engage the sport mode in a manual trans car? I have not gotten a chance to see a manual trans car and have not heard whether or not there is a sport button. Does anyone one know if sport package equipped cars have the button? Thanks
Old 08-13-2007, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by diononiz' post='458226' date='Aug 13 2007, 02:21 PM
Out of curiosity, is there any way to engage the sport mode in a manual trans car? I have not gotten a chance to see a manual trans car and have not heard whether or not there is a sport button. Does anyone one know if sport package equipped cars have the button? Thanks
No, they do not have any such thing. Sport mode is you just moving faster. Hehe. Well, and you can switch off all the nanny circuits.


I drove a 550i Sport Auto this weekend - I was very impressed. I'd have no reservations driving one - even coming from a manual. I loved it.
Old 08-13-2007, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Rudy' post='458147' date='Aug 13 2007, 10:46 AM
This is confusing and the manual doesn't really explain things very clearly.

I don't think modes #1 and #2 are the same as modes #3 and #4. When the stick is to the left, the car uses the transmission's sport program. I think this mode is just like selecting sport mode on a regular steptronic. The car uses a different shift program that upshifts at a higher rpm and holds gears longer before downshifting. Here's a clip of this from the manual:

Attachment 36303

The sport button activates "Dynamic Driving Control" which I explained in post #8 above. Here's a the clip from the manual:

Attachment 36304

So basically, for now, I think my listing of the six discrete combinations is correct -- then again, I haven't had enough coffee yet...
Excellent discussion?guys - it might take some careful comparison driving to discern what exactly the differences are... for example, does moving stick left cause any of the sport button (Dynamic Driving Control) features to go into effect? ?We could check if it will go into 6th gear in auto mode with stick left, for example... but might be tougher to see if the steering is tightened up with stick left (I am guessing not). ?

It's going to be fun..... Rudy are you planning on a different winter tire setup for bad weather? ?I'll be looking to get something to put on mine (here in RI) probably in Nov before I even get 3K miles on it... sounds like Tire Rack is the vendor of choice, not sure about rim size / style / tires though.
Old 08-13-2007, 03:14 PM
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FYI, there was a sport button (for DDC) on the SMG manuals but as far as the traditional manuals go, there isn't a button.

As far as winter setup, I still have my (Tire Rack) setup from my 2004 E60 which are Dunlop M3 tires mounted on 17" wheels. I'll most likely use them unless, for some reason, they don't fit. The only thing I'll have to do is get 4 more TPM sensors installed in them...
Old 08-13-2007, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudy' post='458323' date='Aug 13 2007, 06:14 PM
As far as winter setup, I still have my (Tire Rack) setup from my 2004 E60 which are Dunlop M3 tires mounted on 17" wheels. I'll most likely use them unless, for some reason, they don't fit. The only thing I'll have to do is get 4 more TPM sensors installed in them...
Rudy, how much handling do you think the car will lose with 17's vs 18's for winter given the 19's on the car now with the M-Sport suspension? I've been wresting with this issue.

Lou
Old 08-13-2007, 05:59 PM
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I'm sure it will not handle as well but I'm used to that during the winter. This will be the first time I drop 2" instead of just 1" but I imagine it'll feel similar to the way the 2004 car felt the last few winters. I like having the extra "cushion" for winter potholes, etc. so I think I'll be fine...
Old 08-13-2007, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudy' post='458374' date='Aug 13 2007, 08:59 PM
I'm sure it will not handle as well but I'm used to that during the winter. This will be the first time I drop 2" instead of just 1" but I imagine it'll feel similar to the way the 2004 car felt the last few winters. I like having the extra "cushion" for winter potholes, etc. so I think I'll be fine...
I'm not sure about that, given the M-tech suspemnsion. I'm leaning toward 18's as our winters usually don't have a lot of snow. But your point about additional pothole cushion is well taken. I've used 17's on both winter and summer tires for the last 6 years, so I didn't have the -1 or -2 issue to deal with.

Lou
Old 08-13-2007, 11:20 PM
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I use 19" in summer an 18" in winter (245 all around) and I must say, even here in snowy Austria, i have more grip and "fun" than with my old c-class that had 195 on 15". Put differently, i just have more confidence in this configuration than in my previous. It is true, that pressure is force divided by area, so the slimmer the wheels (225 vs. 245), the more grip you have but i am really questioning whether these extra 2cm make a difference. If yes, then everyone in up north in finnland would be driving with the 175 emergency wheel on all four...
Old 08-14-2007, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by rsyed' post='458472' date='Aug 14 2007, 03:20 AM
I use 19" in summer an 18" in winter (245 all around) and I must say, even here in snowy Austria, i have more grip and "fun" than with my old c-class that had 195 on 15". Put differently, i just have more confidence in this configuration than in my previous. It is true, that pressure is force divided by area, so the slimmer the wheels (225 vs. 245), the more grip you have but i am really questioning whether these extra 2cm make a difference. If yes, then everyone in up north in finnland would be driving with the 175 emergency wheel on all four...
Since the equation P = F / A (Force divided by area), the force F is essentially the same on each tire, but we want to decrease the area A to get more pressure onto the snow & pavement. ?The area?A?touching?the?ground is a function of 3 shape aspects - the OUTSIDE tire diameter (and pressure) determines the fore & aft length of that rectangular "patch". ?The tire width is obviously the left-right dimension of the patch. ?The tread pattern & depth is that 3rd factor - since we're certainly not running on racing slicks on a track - the tread pattern & depth will further decrease the actual surface area of tire touching the ground. ?

Having said all that - I don't know which of those 3 elements is most important - but I suspect it's the tread pattern & depth that makes the most difference. ?All else being equal - the narrower tire (but longer fore-aft "patch") will cut through snow & slush better. Going to a smaller diameter rim is usually offset partially by a thicker tire (on that smaller rim) so the overall outer diameter of the tire may not be that much less with a winter setup. ?With the greater distance from road to rim - we get more "shock absorbption" from potholes, not necessarily less surface area of tire touching the ground.


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