2008 E60 535i AC Compressor change
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2008 E60 535i AC Compressor change
I have a 2008 E60 535i and need to change out the AC compressor. It takes about 10 minutes before it will begin to blow cool air from the vents. The swash plates are failing inside the compressor and I have a new one for it.
Now for the question... When I started to remove the cooling fan for access, I see there are two aluminum lines going from the front of the engine to each top sides of the cooling fan. Underneath, and back inside the fan housing, there is a cooling radiator that I am not familiar with.
The car has no typical water pump like I am used to. I presume this is because of the twin turbos. I have a BMW shop service manual and it does not mention anywhere that I can find, anything about the procedure for removing the AC compressor.
I don't want to remove anything that will cause me more difficulties than necessary. The cooling core that I mentioned that is inside the fan shroud, I am assuming it is an engine oil cooler? The cooling fan will have to come off at a minimum for belt removal and to replace the AC compressor the way I see it.
I was a service tech at several GM dealerships in another life before I got old and have 5 full roll-a-round tool chests so I am not new at slinging a wrench. I have totally rebuilt several BMWs but this one is somewhat different.
I have never owned a car that has no dip pstick to check the engine oil and has the water pump bolted to the side of the engine like an AC compressor. I don't like the idea of having to wait for a light to come on to tell me if the engine oil is low, or not knowing if I have put enough oil in it when changing oil.
From what I understand, the dealership wants about $1700 to change the compressor and I am beginning to understand why. Any help is very much appreciated.
Oh, another thing I though of. I have read information about there not being a belt tensioner for removing the accessory belt. Can anyone confirm thins?
Now for the question... When I started to remove the cooling fan for access, I see there are two aluminum lines going from the front of the engine to each top sides of the cooling fan. Underneath, and back inside the fan housing, there is a cooling radiator that I am not familiar with.
The car has no typical water pump like I am used to. I presume this is because of the twin turbos. I have a BMW shop service manual and it does not mention anywhere that I can find, anything about the procedure for removing the AC compressor.
I don't want to remove anything that will cause me more difficulties than necessary. The cooling core that I mentioned that is inside the fan shroud, I am assuming it is an engine oil cooler? The cooling fan will have to come off at a minimum for belt removal and to replace the AC compressor the way I see it.
I was a service tech at several GM dealerships in another life before I got old and have 5 full roll-a-round tool chests so I am not new at slinging a wrench. I have totally rebuilt several BMWs but this one is somewhat different.
I have never owned a car that has no dip pstick to check the engine oil and has the water pump bolted to the side of the engine like an AC compressor. I don't like the idea of having to wait for a light to come on to tell me if the engine oil is low, or not knowing if I have put enough oil in it when changing oil.
From what I understand, the dealership wants about $1700 to change the compressor and I am beginning to understand why. Any help is very much appreciated.
Oh, another thing I though of. I have read information about there not being a belt tensioner for removing the accessory belt. Can anyone confirm thins?
Last edited by hurst01; 07-17-2014 at 07:37 AM.
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My Ride: Alpine E60, '09 535i-Premium, Sport and Comfort Access PackageMods: Lux H8 V3 Angel Eyes, Weisslicht LED license plate lights, Interior LED lights, RPI Scoop, Matte Black Grills, Smoked LED side markers & side reflectors, 35% tint all around, and a 3
Yes there is a mechanical tensioner for the accy belt. Take a look at realoem.com which has a bunch of diagrams and part numbers for our car. Also if you have access to alldata still you can look up the info. Here is a pic of the bet.
I have a 2008 E60 535i and need to change out the AC compressor. It takes about 10 minutes before it will begin to blow cool air from the vents. The swash plates are failing inside the compressor and I have a new one for it.
Now for the question... When I started to remove the cooling fan for access, I see there are two aluminum lines going from the front of the engine to each top sides of the cooling fan. Underneath, and back inside the fan housing, there is a cooling radiator that I am not familiar with.
The car has no typical water pump like I am used to. I presume this is because of the twin turbos. I have a BMW shop service manual and it does not mention anywhere that I can find, anything about the procedure for removing the AC compressor.
I don't want to remove anything that will cause me more difficulties than necessary. The cooling core that I mentioned that is inside the fan shroud, I am assuming it is an engine oil cooler? The cooling fan will have to come off at a minimum for belt removal and to replace the AC compressor the way I see it.
I was a service tech at several GM dealerships in another life before I got old and have 5 full roll-a-round tool chests so I am not new at slinging a wrench. I have totally rebuilt several BMWs but this one is somewhat different.
I have never owned a car that has no dip pstick to check the engine oil and has the water pump bolted to the side of the engine like an AC compressor. I don't like the idea of having to wait for a light to come on to tell me if the engine oil is low, or not knowing if I have put enough oil in it when changing oil.
From what I understand, the dealership wants about $1700 to change the compressor and I am beginning to understand why. Any help is very much appreciated.
Oh, another thing I though of. I have read information about there not being a belt tensioner for removing the accessory belt. Can anyone confirm thins?
Now for the question... When I started to remove the cooling fan for access, I see there are two aluminum lines going from the front of the engine to each top sides of the cooling fan. Underneath, and back inside the fan housing, there is a cooling radiator that I am not familiar with.
The car has no typical water pump like I am used to. I presume this is because of the twin turbos. I have a BMW shop service manual and it does not mention anywhere that I can find, anything about the procedure for removing the AC compressor.
I don't want to remove anything that will cause me more difficulties than necessary. The cooling core that I mentioned that is inside the fan shroud, I am assuming it is an engine oil cooler? The cooling fan will have to come off at a minimum for belt removal and to replace the AC compressor the way I see it.
I was a service tech at several GM dealerships in another life before I got old and have 5 full roll-a-round tool chests so I am not new at slinging a wrench. I have totally rebuilt several BMWs but this one is somewhat different.
I have never owned a car that has no dip pstick to check the engine oil and has the water pump bolted to the side of the engine like an AC compressor. I don't like the idea of having to wait for a light to come on to tell me if the engine oil is low, or not knowing if I have put enough oil in it when changing oil.
From what I understand, the dealership wants about $1700 to change the compressor and I am beginning to understand why. Any help is very much appreciated.
Oh, another thing I though of. I have read information about there not being a belt tensioner for removing the accessory belt. Can anyone confirm thins?
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My Ride: Alpine E60, '09 535i-Premium, Sport and Comfort Access PackageMods: Lux H8 V3 Angel Eyes, Weisslicht LED license plate lights, Interior LED lights, RPI Scoop, Matte Black Grills, Smoked LED side markers & side reflectors, 35% tint all around, and a 3
Here's what the compressor looks like.
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Thanks Booyaazaa, I was nosing around the car as I was putting the cover back on the radiator/fan shroud. I have company coming from out of town tomorrow and will have to work on the car after they leave. I noticed there IS a belt tensioner on it. I don't know how many threads I have read on this and another forum that people say to get the belt off, cut it.
I need to figure the best way to remove the compressor without taking the whole front end off (LOL). I can't believe the Bentley BMW service manual doesn't tell the procedure. I have to be overlooking it somewhere.
I need to figure the best way to remove the compressor without taking the whole front end off (LOL). I can't believe the Bentley BMW service manual doesn't tell the procedure. I have to be overlooking it somewhere.
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I thought sure I would find someone on here that had come across replacing the AC compressor from an E60 535i. Guess I will find out for myself and post my findings for others to use.
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My Ride: 2008 535i
Replacing AC Compressor - 2008 E60 535i N54
My apologies for resurrecting an old post.
There is a mechanical tensioner. Here's a good guide BMW E60 5-Series Drive Belt, Tensioner, Idler Replacement (N54 Engine) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
I ran into an unforeseen problem while changing mine in Nov 2015. There's a coolant hose called "hose, cylinder head-thermostat" that's connected to the cylinder head by a piece of plastic. That piece of plastic corroded pretty bad on the inside. I barely pulled it while trying to take off my front charge air duct. It broke off. Getting to the other end on the thermostat is a bonafide pain in the ass.
Hurst01: I'm about to replace a failing AC Compressor. Going to go through the same process to take off the serpentine belt. I was wondering if you had any other unforeseen problems or have any suggestions. I was going to follow this as a guide DIY: Replacing the AC Compressor
There is a mechanical tensioner. Here's a good guide BMW E60 5-Series Drive Belt, Tensioner, Idler Replacement (N54 Engine) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
I ran into an unforeseen problem while changing mine in Nov 2015. There's a coolant hose called "hose, cylinder head-thermostat" that's connected to the cylinder head by a piece of plastic. That piece of plastic corroded pretty bad on the inside. I barely pulled it while trying to take off my front charge air duct. It broke off. Getting to the other end on the thermostat is a bonafide pain in the ass.
Hurst01: I'm about to replace a failing AC Compressor. Going to go through the same process to take off the serpentine belt. I was wondering if you had any other unforeseen problems or have any suggestions. I was going to follow this as a guide DIY: Replacing the AC Compressor
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Did you have ac equipment to evacuate and refill, or is it possible to do everything and then take it to a shop to refill? I just got a $2,343 repair estimate for the compressor, drier and and the expansion valve and want to try and DIY or sell the car.
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My apologies for resurrecting an old post.
There is a mechanical tensioner. Here's a good guide BMW E60 5-Series Drive Belt, Tensioner, Idler Replacement (N54 Engine) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
I ran into an unforeseen problem while changing mine in Nov 2015. There's a coolant hose called "hose, cylinder head-thermostat" that's connected to the cylinder head by a piece of plastic. That piece of plastic corroded pretty bad on the inside. I barely pulled it while trying to take off my front charge air duct. It broke off. Getting to the other end on the thermostat is a bonafide pain in the ass.
Hurst01: I'm about to replace a failing AC Compressor. Going to go through the same process to take off the serpentine belt. I was wondering if you had any other unforeseen problems or have any suggestions. I was going to follow this as a guide DIY: Replacing the AC Compressor
There is a mechanical tensioner. Here's a good guide BMW E60 5-Series Drive Belt, Tensioner, Idler Replacement (N54 Engine) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
I ran into an unforeseen problem while changing mine in Nov 2015. There's a coolant hose called "hose, cylinder head-thermostat" that's connected to the cylinder head by a piece of plastic. That piece of plastic corroded pretty bad on the inside. I barely pulled it while trying to take off my front charge air duct. It broke off. Getting to the other end on the thermostat is a bonafide pain in the ass.
Hurst01: I'm about to replace a failing AC Compressor. Going to go through the same process to take off the serpentine belt. I was wondering if you had any other unforeseen problems or have any suggestions. I was going to follow this as a guide DIY: Replacing the AC Compressor
Did you end up getting it done?