Incorrect, battery was tested today and it was no good, I am getting a new one tomorrow. Battery was nearly 7 years old and every morning it is giving me a low battery warning. It is only holding 72% of the charge by the following day. It's toast.

As I told you, I cannot use ISTA-P. No MOST bus, ISTA-P fails on the module reading because no data is coming to the port because of the radio. I have tried it many, many, many times, even today just for giggles. No MOST bus ring light is coming from the radio unit. I needed to take it apart to see where the problem lies, and why I am getting no MOST signal light at the port in the glovebox (which would enable me to use ISTA-P). It is a catch 22, I cannot fix the radio because I cannot get ISTA-P working, I cannot get ISTA-P working, because no MOST light. So to fix the issue, I need to get the radio fixed.

I will figure it out on my own. The battery itself could be a fix, read a few forum posts where people lost their radio or had intermittent radio because their battery level was low. Yes, they are in programming mode, but it may explain why MOST bus was working before I got the ICOM and is no longer working, the battery was degraded more from the car sitting the last near 3 weeks and was only at 80% capacity. Now it's way low, reporting only 74& or less capacity. The Illinois weather has also changed and it has gotten to be near freezing at night, so that is surely not helping the battery. It is not holding a charge, left it charging for hours and it still gave the low battery indication the following morning in my heads-up display.

When I first started out, of course I did not know what I was doing, how could I? Most "help" on these forums comes in the form of dead ends, incomplete information, or help behind paywalls. I guess that is just how it is, but it's sad because I like to help people completely and wish everyone did.

I have learned significantly more with INPA, NCSExpert, WinKFP, ISTA+, and even Tool32. I can flash in expert mode, start my system timers, clear adaptions, find all the proper modules, program them, custom program FSW_TRC_Man files, input the 18 digit VIN via Tool32, short circuit resets, and use INPA to fix errors and activate features. I have only owned the car for less than 3 months, and been messing with the programming/coding for about 2 months now. I have come a LONG way, sure I do not know it all, and no one does. I also got stalled for 3 weeks, trying to get two bogus ICOM Next clones to work.

It sucks having no radio working in my car, but I got the rest of the car working awesome, so it was far from a total loss. I will fix the radio too, the battery might even help with the situation. I would have to the get the MMI/CC and Radio programmed, reset the 5 modules in the proper order with NSCExpert, and then hold the mute and eject buttons for about 20 seconds. I heard there is a way to get the modules out of mode (17 I think it is, failed flash) and get them back to Mode 1 (normal/ready to flash) with Tool32. But no one, as usual, is saying how.

 

The battery has no effect on a module being in programming mode unless the car dies during the flash. Even in that case, installing a new battery won't bring the module out of programming mode. To flash the CCC correctly, you should be using a voltage regulator.

ISTA/P is a program capable of functioning without the MOST network, so your focus seems misplaced. Regardless of what you've learned so far, I'm trying to guide you in the right direction so you can expand your understanding. You mentioned previously that you attempted a flash, but it reached 100%, then dropped to 29% and resulted in a security failure. Were you using the MOST network during that attempt?

The security failure occurred because the flashing process was done incorrectly. The module was communicating, but not in the right way. All of these issues can be resolved if you set up ISTA/P properly. The program simplifies the process and eliminates the complications caused by improper communication in WINKFP. ISTA/P will automatically take the correct steps to complete the flashing process. While there are other programs that can do this, ISTA/P is by far the easiest and most effective solution.

At this point, it seems like your mind is made up, so I'll leave it to you.

 

Trust me, if it were that easy it would have already been done by me. I have better things to do than be outside in the cold programming and coding modules and overcomplicating matters.

ISTA+ works perfectly, as I told you. Unfortunately, ISTA+ does not program my car. It is useful for errors, troubleshooting, and performing service functions.

ISTA-P needs a working MOST bus to read all of my modules. I have tried with both my K+DCAN, and all four ICOMS in my possession.

ISTA-P will start up, find my ICOM, then start to read my modules. Then, about halfway through, it will give me an error that "Hardware is missing: Hook up a hardware interface to the nearest MOST bus". I hit OK, then it will read my modules for about 10-15 seconds, then give me error 90205: Cannot read MOST bus modules. It then gives me two choices, "Retry" or "abort". I can hit Retry 100 times, it will not work because the ICOM B Is not getting signal. Here is my experience with all 5 hardware interfaces I currently have tried.

K+DCAN Cable: With ISTA-P, reads modules, gives me missing MOST bus module error, then 90205 error: "Error reading modules". Also errors out at 100%+29% with MMI/CCC. Codes/Programs all modules except MMI/CCC and CCC.

ICOM NEXT Clone A: Never worked at all.
ICOM NEXT Clone B: Found by I-Tool Reader and EasyConnect, but would not work with ANYTHING, BMW Standard Tools, ISTA, ISTA+. INPA gave me the two black dots, but just refused to work with my car at all. No tools has ever worked with it, I tried setting it to APIPA mode, Static IP mode, and the default DHCP mode. No go, never worked.

Super ICOM Pro N3+: With ISTA-P, reads modules, gives me missing MOST bus module error, then 90205 error: "Error reading modules". Also errors out at 100%+29% with MMI/CCC. Codes/Programs all modules except MMI/CCC and CCC.

ICOM A2 + B: ICOM B is getting power and a green light on top (means ICOM A2 is hooked up and getting signal from it), but not getting any signal to deal with, ISTA-P asks for a MOST connection, I hit OK, because I have one, but the ICOM B is not lighting up on the second light, means it is not receiving a MOST signal (no light from port). With ISTA-P, reads modules, gives me missing MOST bus module error, then 90205 error: "Error reading modules". Also errors out at 100%+29% with MMI/CCC. Codes/Programs all modules except MMI/CCC and CCC.

It's not me, it's not my lack of ability or experience, I have followed your suggestions completely since day one, I cannot force stuff to work that is not working. With NO light in the glovebox, it is impossible to use ISTA-P, because it needs MOST signal to completely read the modules. I have looked for ways to bypass it, there is none I have found and not one procedure that allows bypass.

I am not fighting with you, or arguing, I am telling you what is going on with my car and that NO one knows better than me. If it were up to me, I would have purchased one ICOM, used ISTA-P, and enjoyed my car. So instead of saying I am not listening to you, please listen to me as I am telling you what is happening. if you would like me to take a video of me trying to use ISTA-P, I will show you the ICOM B is hooked up. I will show you the low battery warning, no light coming from the port, and what ISTA-P does when I try and use it. I will then show you BMW Standard Tools and ISTA+ all working with the same interface. If it was user error, I would have trouble connecting anything.

It is NOT just ISTA-P, BMW Standard Tools is not working in other modes that require the ICOM B, like MOST_Async or MOST_Master. Port is correctly set to 6802, so it's not user error. I know it cannot read the MOST line, because there is no most light coming from my radio, or my glovebox port (only place the ICOM B goes). When I was waiting for my Icom A2+B to come, I originally had MOST light coming from that port. Now it is dark, and it went dark around the same time I started getting low battery levels every morning.

I have no reason to mislead you, no reason to not listen to you, and if you had a solution for me you bet me I would be out there trying it. You keep saying to try your suggestions, I have every single one of them. If it were just needing to flash and program, it would be working considering I literally coded and programmed the rest of the entire car and reset adaptions, customized the settings, and set my DSC to center better than it was before.

 

Update:

Replaced battery with a Duralast AGM 95 AH, car is no longer giving battery drain errors and my door locks, entire system seems to be working much better. Coded battery for 90 AH AGM (closest match possible) and the car has accepted the coding and showing a brand new AGM battery installed.

Unfortunately, ran into my first breakdown, but the cause is pretty simple. The day I went to replace my battery, I was going to wait until I got paid on Thursday to buy the new battery. It snowed here in Illinois Wednesday (11/20), and the old battery was dying, and it was having a hard time starting the car. I let the car warm up and charge a bit while cleaning off the light layer of snow, then I got my daughter and we were going to go to the store. I turned the corner to get on Route 30 and the car just died. No crank, no start. Tried shutting it off a bit, basic troubleshooting. No start, no crank. A police officer helped me push it off the highway while my dad was on his way.

Tried to jump the car with his Toyota, no go. He said it dimmed his whole car because it was too much load on his electrical system. So we went home, got tools, and I removed the battery. We went to Autozone to buy the battery, purchased it, and went back to the car. It was dark out already, so used a flashlight in the trunk to install the new battery. Car still would not start, so ruled out the battery system as the major cause. Tried to jump it again, no luck. Freezing cold out, was warm and sunny the day before of course, and the car was about 4 blocks from my house.

My wife has a 2010 Audi A5, which also has a lot of modules and a beefy electrical system and powerful battery. We jumped my BMW and it started right up, much to my surprise and delight! Got the car home, put it in front of my garage, and shut it down. Tried to restart it, dead. 40 AMP Sears battery charger, no go. I was freezing, it was dark, so I decided to mess with it Thursday morning. Thursday morning, I found the culprit.

When my car had died out, my daughter is 8 years old and had been sitting in the back seat. She claimed right when the car died, she heard a popping sound in the trunk behind her. Turns out she was right. There is a BST (Battery Safety Terminal) hooked up to the positive battery terminal on my 2006 530i. Maybe from having a bad battery, just being old, or from me having it hooked up to a power supply often to program/update it, it blew up. That is what killed the car. I could see some residue from the explosion and there is play it in, means it got tripped and blew up. It is designed to kill your electrical system in the case of an accident, but they go bad over time.

I knew something was wrong, because usually hooking up my power supply, i am getting a consistent 13.7-14.3 volts and I was only getting 11 volts, power supply or charger hooked up. ISTA+ also gave me a Battery Terminal error.

I managed to get a brand new looking Negative terminal at LKQ pick a part, plus it is a much later design than my car originally had. I ordered a positive terminal, brand new, which will be here tomorrow. Now I will have a brand new battery, and brand new battery terminals. Both needed to be replaced anyhow, so now I have peace of mind knowing I should not have battery problems for a long time. I got a smart charger and maintainer to keep my new AGM battery charged and topped off while I await the positive terminal. I will also be troubleshooting the radio system tomorrow, I have a suspicion I know exactly what it is.

 

Update 12/01/24: Installed the positive battery terminal Wednesday, car fired right up. Now I have a brand new AGM battery, and brand new positive and negative battery terminals all of which are the latest design.

My suspicion was correct; it was a bad telematics module (TCU). I ordered a better one than mine came with, was less than $40.00 on eBay. The new one has a Bluetooth provision along with GPS. It has three connectors while the old one only had two. This one also has GPS, my old one did not. The blue connector was not used but present, hooked them up with the proper color coding and coded it to my car.

Bimmergeeks Expert cable arrived Saturday morning. After changing out the TCU, I was able to reset the MMI/CCC and Radio with Tool32 (self-taught with German/English translation to help) to get them back to mode 1 (from failed flash status). Thanks to my Bimmergeeks cable, I flashed the MMI/CCC is about 20 minutes and the Radio itself took almost 2 hours.

I have successfully added the VIN and coded all 5 radio modules in the right order with factory coding, and it finally took them. I will have to find the job name that resets the MMI/CCC and Radio back to a programmable state, it's German of course. I was proud of myself because never seen anyone write the procedure to do so.

The proper order is to code the radio to factory using NCSExpert with an Expertmode profile is:

CAPPL
CAUDI
CTUNE
CHOST
CGATE

So, changed out Telematics (ECU) > Tool32 > Reset MMI/CCC and Radio CCC modules from failed flash programming state to Mode 1 (ready for programming) > WinKfp > Bimmergeeks Expert cable flashed MMI/CCC (used to fail at 29%) and Radio CCC (would give me a MOST hardware missing error with the ICOMs and cheap K+D-CAN cable) > NCSExpert > Successfully coded all 5 modules to factory coding. Now, my radio is still stuck on the BMW logo, but checked the MMI/CCC and Radio CCC with INPA and they are in a successful program state with my VIN coded to them! I will let the car go to sleep and see if I have sound or not tomorrow. MASSIVE win, either way!

Car is now showing if I have a door open or trunk open, when my MMI/CCC was in the failed programming state, my Android 13 head unit did not show it. Now it does!

Bimmergeeks Expert cable is totally worth the $80.00 I paid for it, it seems to be even faster than any ICOM clone I have and certainly faster than my cheap K+DCAN cable. I was never able to touch the MMI/CCC or Radio/CCC without WinKfp giving me an error and leaving them in a failed flash state! I plan on keeping and using it, selling my ICOM A2+B clone, and getting a genuine ICOM Next and ICOM B, maybe in the next month or so.

It was only 15 degrees out tonight, even with my underpowered heater, it just got to be too cold to stay outside in my garage any longer. I will let the car sleep overnight, then tomorrow check to see if I have sound or not. I will do the factory reset (hold Mute and eject buttons down for about 25 seconds)

I am curious to see if I can use ISTA-P now that I got the MMI/CCC and Radio CCC programmed, plus found the RING system break (bad Telematics (TCU) unit). INPA is now saying I no longer have a MOST connection break, ISTA+ was saying a break was present, as was INPA prior to today.

I want to post my learning experience and solutions, so if someone can find this useful for themselves, that is great!

Thought of the day: Stay away from ICOM Clones, get a Bimmergeeks Expert cable unless you can afford a legit ICOM. Most K+DCAN cables and ICOM clones have firmware/hardware issues. Bimmergeeks has proven to be super fast, reliable, and able to do more than my other equipment has.

Pics coming tomorrow.

 

Update: 12/04/2024.

Progress being made! I said i would figure it out and I am definitely onto something. I also said pics, well it got in the teens tonight and snowed, so I will postpone until tomorrow or Friday.
Completed:

1. All radio modules are in the green now (no more blue "failed programming mode") and coded.
2. I-drive missing turned out being a misplaced fuse. Fuse 79 is present but not used on my car, so I thought Fuse 79 was 80. Putting the fuse in the right place made it work.
3. I-drive controller and menu button is back and working properly! (I missed that little grey menu. Before was either PDC or Android screen.)
4. Every single module coded for my car with my VIN code.
5. Took apart and reconnected all modules in the trunk. Red light from MOST bus solid in all back modules.
6. Found out my GKE-211 transmission had the wrong ZUSB number but the right family, fixed with the right ZUSB number.
7. All ZUSB checked and correct for my car.

Todo:

1. Still no red MOST light from the diagnostics port. (Maybe because CDC is currently not working?)
2. CDC is still red in ISTA+ (fuse, maybe? Back of unit fuse, in-dash fuse?). I will check the in-dash fuses tomorrow and pull the CDC to make sure it is not the issue.
3. Check VO took my coding.
4. Check all fuses, check blown/misplaced.
5. Few of the radio modules still not showing up when they used to before (IBOC, Amp, etc.)

I am getting there, learning as I go, and it was a big win to get that I-drive working again. Luckily I took pictures before I checked them and removed/replaced the fuses in the trunk. Need to check the fuses in the glovebox next. If not for the bitter cold, damp weather, I would likely have sound already! I definitely need to invest in a better garage heater! It went from the 30's to 18 and the wind is whipping.

 

Today was the best day with this car, except for the day I bought it and brought it home.

I took all of the modules out of my trunk and made sure all the connections were tight. Recoded the with VO $677 for the Logic 7 DSP (it seemed not to take last time) in NCS Expert, FA_Write to the CAS and LMA, and then SG_Coderein all five radio modules. I also factory coded the SGM, CAS, LMA, and most of the control modules (just in case). I opened my door to check on my ICOM, and suddenly heard door chimes (I have not heard that sound in months!). Turned the key off and back on, and suddenly heard my USB key music playing through speakers. A second later, the sound got louder (Logic 7 amp kicked in) and it sounded amazing!

CDC is still not working. Think it is dead. Checked the fuse for it and behind it, fuse is good. It will not eject the CD cartridge, either. I can get one off eBay for $40-50. Considering I have up to 64 gigs on just this USB key alone, as long as the sound is working I do not care right now.

All modules coded with my VIN, all but two modules are green in ISTA+, and my radio is working completely. Car has been completely updated, and I learned a ton.

If anyone is in the Chicagoland/NWI area and needs help, I can do what took me weeks in about a day now.

Other than that, mission accomplished! I said I would figure it out, well I figured it out!

 

So what was the problem?

Turns out I did have incorrect DME (engine computer), EGS (transmission) modules programmed in. Was using the wrong DME, and GKE families along with the wrong ZUSB numbers. No harm was really done, but now with FindECU and confirming with WinKFP and the .his files, I now have the entire car coded correctly and with my VIN code. So the thread title is correct; I did indeed find I had about 8 modules with the wrong ZUSB numbers for my car. Not knowing much and just starting out, of course I assumed it was me messing with it that killed things! It died on the 10th day I messed with updating and coding.

I did indeed have failed programming AFTER my radio went out. my MMI/CCC as well as the CCC Radio itself both failed to flash and put them in limbo (failed flash mode), it took the Bimmergeeks Expert cable, Tool32 to reset them back in mode 1, and simply flashing them again with WinKFP to get them ready to go (Green in ISTA+). Before, they were both blue in the ISTA+ tree (failed flash mode). I updated the radio modules as a troubleshooting step after my radio initially went out in the hopes updating/recoding them would make them work again.

What actually killed my radio?

Turns out is was not me, merely a module in my car went bad and seemed to take the CD changer with it. Maybe it sent heat through the system? Keep in mind my car is also a 2006 (manufactured in 2005), so nearing 20 years old. I am not sure if my Telematics module killed my CD changer, or the other way around, but my Telematics overheats and the CD changer has no power at all going to it. That or (strangely) they both died at the same time. Possible, not probable.

My original Telematics unit gets very hot after a few seconds and starts acting up, That is what killed my entire CCC radio system. Due to updating and messing with the coding, I blamed the nut behind the wheel (myself) and thought it was a coding/update issue. It was a coincidence that I was messing with updating modules, programming, and coding. I figured it was user error, but my CD changer has a good fuse on it and also the fuse (Fuse 38, 5 Amp fuse in my glove box fuse holder). They both were tested with a volt meter and found to be good. It will not eject the 6-CD cartridge, it is red in ISTA+, and the diagnostics light after it i(MOST diagnostic port) s still dead. Replacement CD changer coming in a few days, but not sure how I am going to get my CD cartridge out as it is completely dead! I just do not want any open loops in the system.

The new Telematics (TCU) unit is in better shape than my original, is from a newer car, and has GPS built in (my other did not). The blue connector is present, along with the white, red, and black on my car. My old one just had white, red, and black. Replacing it with the new one is ultimately what fixed my sound, now it is working and I have everything (chimes, parking distance sensor sounds, everything!). No more overheating and just works. After driving for nearly 2 months with no sound, I am finally able to enjoy my music again.

I was not sure if I had the Logic 7 (E60 Top HIFI DSP, coding $677) or E60 HIFI ($676). One of my troubleshooting steps was to change the VO and add $676, remove $677.. I figured I had Logic 7 DSP, my amp is huge and looked to have all speakers running from it. Turns out I am Top HiIFI DSP $677. So after replacing the Telematics, I edited the VO with NCSExpert with a Factory Coding profile, Edit the VO and added $677, removed $676 (delete key). and FA_Write to my CAS and LMA modules. Then I SG_Coderein CAPPL, CAUDI, CTUNE, CHOST, CGATE. For good measure, also did most of the support modules. The first thing I noticed was the door chime started working. Then, about 10 seconds later, I had sound! A second after sound, I had amplification as my Logic 7 kicked in. Never assume your coding is wrong, unless you messed with it. That was another mistake I made, tried too many things out at the same time instead of trying one thing at a time.

Your radio goes out, and you are sure you never messed with the coding or VO/FA,, first thing to do is try doing a CCC reset. Here are my recommended troubleshooting steps. Look on forums or YouTube if you need help or instructions. If you really do not know what you are doing, find help from someone who does and be careful with everything! If you messed with coding, that could be it for sure. This assumes you never messed with any coding and just your sound suddenly is intermittent or went out completely. Before doing any of this, check you fuses and make sure your fuses are all good. Don't eyeball them, use a tester or volt meter!

1. Hold the Volume and eject buttons on your radio and CD/DVD drive until the BMW logo goes black. This resets your I-drive and CCC. You can also hold your I-drive button down for around 20 seconds.
2. Still no sound? Unplug your negative battery terminal for about 20 minutes or a little longer. Put it back and check the sound (this will reset your car time). I like to disconnect both terminals and bridge them with speaker wire or touch them together (NEVER do this if one terminal is still attached to the battery, unless you like acid explosions!) This helps get the charge out of the battery system and can help reset the modules.
3. If still no go, you likely have an issue with your modules in your trunk. Something could be loose, bad wiring, so open the panel in the trunk opposite your battery and check each module and make sure everything is plugged in and tight. If it's an E60 like mine, you may not be able to get to everything while the modules are secured in place (brackets in the way, etc.). Newer cars are much easier.
4. Try doing a radio reset after checking for loose wiring.
5. Still no sound? Check the PDC (Parking distance controller) or MPM (Micropower) module under the spare tire in the trunk. My MPM was already re-routed when I bought it, but you might considering zip tying it to your Sat module bracket and getting it out of there (notorious for getting water in there and damaging the MPM). Check the connections to it, unplug and plug them back in. Check the sound, reset the radio again after.
6. Still nothing? Get an optical bypass loop from Amazon, eBay, etc. Get some sockets and get the modules (AMP, Telematics, HD Tuner, etc.) loose so you can get to the connections. Unplug the MOST connections and bypass one by one until you find a possible bad module. With the key on, a break in the MOST bus line will show an intermittent red light (should be solid red). See if the sound come back if you bypass one component at a time. Of course, now that you got them loose, make sure there are no broken wires, no loose connections, and it might be beneficial to unplug and plug back in everything on all the modules. Be careful with the top telematics connectors, they are frail and hard to disconnect.
7. Reset the radio, shut your key off. Lock your doors and let your car alone for about 20 minutes (let it go to sleep). Or do it quicker by disconnecting the negative terminal again for a few minutes. Check for sound.
8. Still nothing, you could possibly have a bad CCC. But don't buy anything until you know for sure. Check fuses and use a program like ISTA, E-sys, or INPA and look for errors.

Only taking all my trunk modules out of their brackets and testing each one did I find the culprit, overheating telematics (TCU). Keep in mind, the first thing to do is disconnect the MOST connection on each module. There should be a red light with the key on, if you find a module where the red light is not on, it is likely the module before it in the loop is either dead, malfunctioning, or not connected due to loose connections or a bad wire, dead fuse, corrosion, water damage, etc.

Don't just go and get yourself a radio replacement if your sound goes out, as it might not even be your radio! I almost bought a replacement radio on eBay for $300.00. The telematics unit I got from eBay was a whole $44.00/shipped, so buying a new radio would not have fixed my issue as it was NOT the radio. I am glad I did not make an expensive mistake.

I hope this is helpful.

 

Update: 12/10/2024

• Got my entire MOST Bus system in the green with the missing IBOC, Satellite radio, Amplifier, Radio, CD changer and Telematics units all showing green in ISTA+ and showing up again in the Control unit tree in ISTA+. All are found by WinKfp and all took the update (before they would give me COAPI errors and fail to update, or show up in ISTA+ control unit tree or INPA AIF),
• Entire radio system is working perfectly and updated to the latest ZUSB numbers.
• CD Changer was replaced, updated, and coded to my VIN. Old CD changer had a broken off faceplate when I bought it . I had glue-gunned it on, but the new one is in much better shape. Whoever owned the car before me liked Country music, the first lyrics of the CD played through my LOGIC 7 system are "Kick the dust up!", which is funny but it was nice to hear the CD changer work again. I managed to get the 6 disc cartridge out from my old unit.
• All modules coded to my VIN code. When I got it, there was like 5 different VIN codes with the modules and it was last treated with ISTA-P 2.53. Other had no VIN code and just had the generic "yyyyyyy".
• Sound is better than ever, I took the time to set my Android 13 radio's DSP with he Logic 7 system (some say it is not that great, well I disagree 1000%, it sounds pretty amazing in my car!). With music, I prefer the Concert Hall setting, movies sound best with the Theater setting.
• I have steady red light at the MOST diagnostics port.

So now I have a 2006 BMW 530i, M-sport package, Top HIFI Logic 7 amplifier and sound system, Android 13 10.33" display (modernized the heck out of the interior).
Fully updated, coded, and programmed exactly how I want it. My car was less than $6000, only has 124k miles on it , cold weather package. Quick, comfortable, rust free, rattle free. Brand new battery, brand new terminals, better telematics unit, better shape CD changer installed. To say I love my car is an understatement and the feeling of success and knowing I did it myself. Credit to Sean Jordan for his help, and the various YouTube and forum posters I have read posts from. All helped me learn what I know, but I did learn quite a few things without help as well. No better way to learn than to do it yourself and use determination!

I have learned how to basically do about everything with updating, coding, and programming. I have also took apart the entire radio system. All those hours in the cold were very much worth it! Only 2 error codes and neither cause check engine lights. I am pretty sure I could use ISTA-P now, as I have light again in the diagnostics MOST connector. If it's not broke, do not fix it. It is below freezing again, so as long as everything is working, I am content.

 

@RS_06_530i what a nightmare huh, but I'm glad you finally have everything working.
Do you mind if ask you where did you get your ICOM with the MOST adapter? I bought one and the ICOM A itself won't connect to INPA and others apps, and the worst part is that the icom b (most adapter) is a piece of crap without the chip inside just a blank PCB board with a red led light, so 100% useless . At least I'm returning for a refund