ck-e60

Ah, forgot to point out, I replaced the fuel filter too, underneath the driver-side rear seat. The metal cap is a bitch to take off if you dont have something to tap it off with a hammer.

Make sure this is snug when you put it back on, I had a vapor leak because I didnt put the cap back on right, had some gasoline shoot up on the seat and what not when I tried to fix this. Probably a good idea to replace when you're low on gas. Good thing about this car, any extra fuel will seep into a drainage hole to underneath the car; long story short, I overfilled my tank (because of that cap) and wasted a crap load of gas.

ck-e60

Sorry for the multiple quotes, but as you can see, I've personally done a lot of work on my car. MAF will need to be removed from your intake tube, there's a clip that powers the sensor, disconnect that and remove the MAF from the intake tubing. Use any MAF cleaner, spray it real well in a ventilated area away from your car, the spray may discolor your paint and get you extremely high.

jjsigpi

Have the valve lift setting on your car changed from 0.8mm to 0.3mm or vice-versa, depending on which setting you currently are on now. You will need to go to the dealer or an indy shop or to anyone who has one of those computers that can hook up to our cars via the ODB2 port. Our cars are notorious for having failing valvetronic systems starting around 70k miles (sometimes sooner, sometimes later... all depends). This was fixed on the 550i's but since we have earlier generation e60's we are pretty much screwed. The ultimate fix is to have the Valvetronic eccentric shaft and all the intermediate levers replaced. Will cost upward of $4,000!! I had my valve lift setting adjusted in the past but was told that it was just a band-aid fix and I will eventually have to get everything replaced. My indy shop who employs a master BMW tech there said the fix should last anywhere from 10k - 20k miles from my current mileage. So, I'm slowly saving up now for this and will get this done when the problem resurfaces.

As for the valve lift setting change... it should completely cure any shaking and rough idling you have. I should note that I had cleaned my MAF sensor, replaced CCVs, cleaned my intake, and done all the other minor fixes mentioned. Also, there is no need to change your Ignition Coils... these things last until around 120k miles. Also, our computers are very sensitive to a failed Ignition coil and you will definitely get an error if one is bad. Now, if you want to change it just for fun/maintenance then that's another story. Let us know how everything turns out.

NyC545I

Thanks for the advice I will try this tomorrow, and will post the results

mrfva

Glad to hear it fixed your idling. For me, the problem came back 1-2 weeks after the new plugs were installed. I'm looking into the pressure regulating valve.

Ducmaniak

Yup, same here, just came back this morning on my way to work. I am dumbfounded now. please keep me posted.

Stephen Max

Can this be done with INPA or DIS? Anybody know how?