True, if the "CV" joint was on the front axle. Based on your statement, sounds to me like you are referring to this joint as being on the front axle. By "turning steering to max" and applying gas is a way to determine a bad CV joint on front wheel drive vehicles. Not on rear wheel drive vehicle. Can you enlighten me as to how turning your front wheel and applying gas cause a distinct sound on the rear driveshaft with a bad CV joint? I think if a sound was produced, it will happen regardless of which way your wheels are pointing.

I'll be honest, I too didn't know we had a CV joint.

 

yes. and the driveshaft has a joint in it too, no?

 

To the OP,

What was the condition of the old rotors you replaced? Did it appear to have any scoring like discolored areas on the disc with clear sections in between? How did the pads look - did they look like they wore down pretty evenly or was one thicker than the other, or in other words was the inner pad thicker than the outer pad on the same rotor? I hope you can recall because if any of these were present then you may have a sticking/frozen brake caliper piston. You'd be surprised how the internals could accumulate moisture and rust build-up causing the piston to not move freely as a result of extended intervals between brake fluid change. I'd strongly recommend to have the brake fluid changed every 2-3 years, like I-Drive says. Good luck

 

Same way as failing wheel bearing will most likely make noise when turning - lateral forces. And yes, this test is less effective in RWD cars.
Anyway cv joint will never cause effects me and the OP experience.

 

Sticking caliper piston would cause car to pull to a side,, I am sure OP would mention such apparent issue.

 

True to some extent. Bad rotor and pad wear are the initial signs of a malfunctioning caliper and can happen without a noticeable pull, but will eventually lead to pulling to one side if not corrected.

 

My car does the same thing and I think it's the way the transmission is... do this test, put the car in manual 1 and then try to inch it forward. In my case the pulsating effect no longer occurs. If you drive the car aggressively then do the same thing, again it won't happen.

Like I said before and I'll say it again, The E60 BMW auto tranny is the worst tranny ever made...ever!

 

I was being nice about it. But now I'll just tell you...your post doesn't make sense to me. Ok so you know more about BMW than I do. You win. Obviously you disagree with my other posts. If I gave a shit, I'd prove my points. You don't have to believe me just as i don't have to believe you. This is a RWD vehicle the link you posted shows #2 as UNIVERSAL JOINT which is exactly what a flex disc guibo is.. http://www.ebay.com/...-All-Categories

But how did I know that or guess that? because I'm so inexperienced? I've taken out several BMW driveshafts, have you?
Can you show me a diagram of the CV joint now?

You're sitting here with 80 posts hearing this guy's problem and suggesting him to change the tranmission oil and saying it could be torque converter. It's members like you that really irritate me and keep me away from the board. Like going to the Dr. for fatigue and he's telling you that you most likely have aids or something. Are you serious? Work on your own car then and leave it at that.

 

I changed the pads/rotors only to rule out that they were causing the issue. There is no noise from the shaky movement...I think it may be created by the engine because when the car is not moving at all (whether it's in park, neutral, or at a stoplight in drive) I can still sort of feel the same shakiness in the engine idle.

I may try replacing the spark plugs next. BMW claims they did that already, but I have no paperwork from them proving it.

 

I will look into this Flex Disc. It may be worth checking into. After googling what it does, seems like it may be the problem or at least some of the problem. Thanks!