2004 530i front hub bearing replacement help
#1
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 21
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
My Ride: '04 530i: Bone stock
Does anybody have any helpful insight or a DIY guide on changing the front hub bearings on an '04 530i? Also, any special tools required? Sorry if there is a DIY thread already out there, I was unable to locate it.
The car is just about to reach 110k miles and has been really great so far. I noticed a humming noise coming from the front end a little while ago. So before getting involved with hub bearings, I just had a set of tires with an alignment done and the noise is still there. The noise/vibration only occurs while driving straight or turning right and goes away when veering left. Seeing as its getting up there in miles, I am trying to tackle as much of the maintenance on my own. So, I would very much like to do this repair myself, however, if it is going to be too much hassle, I do have an indy on backup just in case.
Thanks for your help!
The car is just about to reach 110k miles and has been really great so far. I noticed a humming noise coming from the front end a little while ago. So before getting involved with hub bearings, I just had a set of tires with an alignment done and the noise is still there. The noise/vibration only occurs while driving straight or turning right and goes away when veering left. Seeing as its getting up there in miles, I am trying to tackle as much of the maintenance on my own. So, I would very much like to do this repair myself, however, if it is going to be too much hassle, I do have an indy on backup just in case.
Thanks for your help!
#2
This is a very advanced job for a simple part- proceeed with great caution.
The problem you'll run into is that the bottom end of the strut is covering up 2 of the 4 screws that hold the bearing in place. So, if you're feeling bold...
Remove the front and rear balljoints (one connects the steering arm and one a stabilizer arm. Loosen the strut holding screws. Compress the spring with the appropriate tool. Then lower the assembly enough to get to the 2 hidden screws. Use a torch or a heat gun to heat the self-locking balljoint nuts (Unless you want to break a bunch of torx bits). Replace them with new ones ... They're cheap. Good luck!
The problem you'll run into is that the bottom end of the strut is covering up 2 of the 4 screws that hold the bearing in place. So, if you're feeling bold...
Remove the front and rear balljoints (one connects the steering arm and one a stabilizer arm. Loosen the strut holding screws. Compress the spring with the appropriate tool. Then lower the assembly enough to get to the 2 hidden screws. Use a torch or a heat gun to heat the self-locking balljoint nuts (Unless you want to break a bunch of torx bits). Replace them with new ones ... They're cheap. Good luck!
#3
Thread Starter
Members
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 21
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
My Ride: '04 530i: Bone stock
This is a very advanced job for a simple part- proceeed with great caution.
The problem you'll run into is that the bottom end of the strut is covering up 2 of the 4 screws that hold the bearing in place. So, if you're feeling bold...
Remove the front and rear balljoints (one connects the steering arm and one a stabilizer arm. Loosen the strut holding screws. Compress the spring with the appropriate tool. Then lower the assembly enough to get to the 2 hidden screws. Use a torch or a heat gun to heat the self-locking balljoint nuts (Unless you want to break a bunch of torx bits). Replace them with new ones ... They're cheap. Good luck!
The problem you'll run into is that the bottom end of the strut is covering up 2 of the 4 screws that hold the bearing in place. So, if you're feeling bold...
Remove the front and rear balljoints (one connects the steering arm and one a stabilizer arm. Loosen the strut holding screws. Compress the spring with the appropriate tool. Then lower the assembly enough to get to the 2 hidden screws. Use a torch or a heat gun to heat the self-locking balljoint nuts (Unless you want to break a bunch of torx bits). Replace them with new ones ... They're cheap. Good luck!
#4
Just did mine. I didn't have to remove any ball joints. Take the caliper and rotor off. Then undo the bracket that holds the sway bar endlink and the bolt that holds the strut to the knuckle. Put your spring compressors on then undo the 3 nuts that hold the top of the strut. Push down on the assembly until the strut clears the fender and pull the strut towards you. Take a chisel or something similar (I used a pickle fork) and hammer it into the rear crease of the knuckle, spreading the opening in the knuckle that holds the strut. The strut should then slide right out. I highly recommend using a impact gun to remove the 4 bolts holding the hub assembly. Its a real pain in the ass if you don't. Assembly is reverse of disassemble.
Not my picture. But this is the idea for taking the strut out.
Not my picture. But this is the idea for taking the strut out.
#5
I'm approaching 129K miles. I haven't driven the car much since I've been letting my wife drive it. I noticed some humming come from the front end. I haven't noticed anything too different driving wise. I only hear it while moving though. Sort of sounds like the engine is under more load or something. So how did you determine it was a wheel bearing?
#6
When mine went bad there was only a clicking noise. I guess my bearings dried out. Didn't know what it was at first. No play in the wheel. Usually to check for bad wheel bearings put one hand under the wheel and one on top when the car is jacked up. If there is play the bearings are bad. Similar to tie rod check. But for tie rods its one hand on left and one on right side of wheel.
So I spun the wheel by hand and heard the clicking. Took it off, spun the rotor and heard the clicking. Took that off and still heard it spinning the hub. So... bad bearings.
If your going to change the bearings(hubs), cant stress it enough, use an impact gun. Almost impossible to get the bolts out without it. Tried using a 2' breaker bar and still barely moved.
So I spun the wheel by hand and heard the clicking. Took it off, spun the rotor and heard the clicking. Took that off and still heard it spinning the hub. So... bad bearings.
If your going to change the bearings(hubs), cant stress it enough, use an impact gun. Almost impossible to get the bolts out without it. Tried using a 2' breaker bar and still barely moved.
#9
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 21
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
My Ride: '04 530i: Bone stock
I'm approaching 129K miles. I haven't driven the car much since I've been letting my wife drive it. I noticed some humming come from the front end. I haven't noticed anything too different driving wise. I only hear it while moving though. Sort of sounds like the engine is under more load or something. So how did you determine it was a wheel bearing?
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