170+k miles and going, shocks/strut replacement?
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dutchess Cty, NY
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My Ride: 2006 530xiT, Sep. 2005 build, silver gray/gray/black anthracite, Steptronic, Premium, Premium Sound, NAV, PDC.
Model Year: 2006
On a much more mundane level - I had all 4 shocks replaced at 85,000 mi and it was like a new car. The slow degradation was creeping up on me probably for about 10,000 mi. When it's gradual you don't notice right away. Then when you get new ones ...... slap forehead, ask why I didn't do it sooner.
#12
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA
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My Ride: 530i
Model Year: 2004
Update several weeks later:
I've replaced the whole front: struts and mounts with new bellows and bump stops, upper and lower control arms, the whole tie rod assembly, and sway bar links.
This was the most physically demanding car DYI ever...more physically demanding than installing a suspension lift on my Jeep. Some of the ball joints just wouldn't come apart, I had to beat'em, heat'em, pry'em. Nothing really went smooth and I had to get creative and what seems like a simple task of screwing nuts and bolts, took hours and hours of fitting, checking, torquing, checking again, lining up.
The moment I got behind the wheel, it felt like a different car, or more like the car I picked up 8 years ago. The steering wheel is heavy as hell, even a bit too heavy for my liking. Responsiveness is great, a slight move of the steering wheel gets the car to respond immediately. Car feels "very sure of itself" on the road, it's like a tank. I kept the old springs, I inspected them, they were in great shape, couple minor rust spots I sanded off, then lightly sanded the whole springs down, primed and painted them, look like new. Maybe the car sits an inch lower with them, but that's what people get when they buy lowering springs anyway.
Now time to do the rear. Instead of taking apart the rear and inspecting what needs to be replaced, and have the car sit for a week while the parts come in, I decided to keep driving and put together a list of things I'm ordering. I'd appreciate any additional advice on what I should repalce with the rear:
1) shocks, shock mounts and bump stops (there are no bellows on these shocks, right?)
2) 2 sway bar links
3) control arms - how many are there in the rear? same as for front, i.e. 2 upper and 2 lower? Browsing parts catalog, I've found I need to get 2 rear upper forwards, which are identical for both left and right side of car, and then a rear left upper rearward and a rear right upper rearward.
Any other control arms? Are there any rear lower control arms? What's this "wishbone" part, is it recommended that I replace that too?
Anything else I missed in the rear? How do these brands compare: Dorman, Mevotech, Moog, Beck Arnley, Replacement, TRW? I heard to stay away from Dorman and Mevotech. I got all Moog stuff for my front, but Parts Geek doesn't have any Moog rearl control arms or sway bar links. I'm trying to keep the spending mid-range. Thanks.
I've replaced the whole front: struts and mounts with new bellows and bump stops, upper and lower control arms, the whole tie rod assembly, and sway bar links.
This was the most physically demanding car DYI ever...more physically demanding than installing a suspension lift on my Jeep. Some of the ball joints just wouldn't come apart, I had to beat'em, heat'em, pry'em. Nothing really went smooth and I had to get creative and what seems like a simple task of screwing nuts and bolts, took hours and hours of fitting, checking, torquing, checking again, lining up.
The moment I got behind the wheel, it felt like a different car, or more like the car I picked up 8 years ago. The steering wheel is heavy as hell, even a bit too heavy for my liking. Responsiveness is great, a slight move of the steering wheel gets the car to respond immediately. Car feels "very sure of itself" on the road, it's like a tank. I kept the old springs, I inspected them, they were in great shape, couple minor rust spots I sanded off, then lightly sanded the whole springs down, primed and painted them, look like new. Maybe the car sits an inch lower with them, but that's what people get when they buy lowering springs anyway.
Now time to do the rear. Instead of taking apart the rear and inspecting what needs to be replaced, and have the car sit for a week while the parts come in, I decided to keep driving and put together a list of things I'm ordering. I'd appreciate any additional advice on what I should repalce with the rear:
1) shocks, shock mounts and bump stops (there are no bellows on these shocks, right?)
2) 2 sway bar links
3) control arms - how many are there in the rear? same as for front, i.e. 2 upper and 2 lower? Browsing parts catalog, I've found I need to get 2 rear upper forwards, which are identical for both left and right side of car, and then a rear left upper rearward and a rear right upper rearward.
Any other control arms? Are there any rear lower control arms? What's this "wishbone" part, is it recommended that I replace that too?
Anything else I missed in the rear? How do these brands compare: Dorman, Mevotech, Moog, Beck Arnley, Replacement, TRW? I heard to stay away from Dorman and Mevotech. I got all Moog stuff for my front, but Parts Geek doesn't have any Moog rearl control arms or sway bar links. I'm trying to keep the spending mid-range. Thanks.
#13
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Update several weeks later:
I've replaced the whole front: struts and mounts with new bellows and bump stops, upper and lower control arms, the whole tie rod assembly, and sway bar links.
This was the most physically demanding car DYI ever...more physically demanding than installing a suspension lift on my Jeep. Some of the ball joints just wouldn't come apart, I had to beat'em, heat'em, pry'em. Nothing really went smooth and I had to get creative and what seems like a simple task of screwing nuts and bolts, took hours and hours of fitting, checking, torquing, checking again, lining up.
The moment I got behind the wheel, it felt like a different car, or more like the car I picked up 8 years ago. The steering wheel is heavy as hell, even a bit too heavy for my liking. Responsiveness is great, a slight move of the steering wheel gets the car to respond immediately. Car feels "very sure of itself" on the road, it's like a tank. I kept the old springs, I inspected them, they were in great shape, couple minor rust spots I sanded off, then lightly sanded the whole springs down, primed and painted them, look like new. Maybe the car sits an inch lower with them, but that's what people get when they buy lowering springs anyway.
Now time to do the rear. Instead of taking apart the rear and inspecting what needs to be replaced, and have the car sit for a week while the parts come in, I decided to keep driving and put together a list of things I'm ordering. I'd appreciate any additional advice on what I should repalce with the rear:
1) shocks, shock mounts and bump stops (there are no bellows on these shocks, right?)
2) 2 sway bar links
3) control arms - how many are there in the rear? same as for front, i.e. 2 upper and 2 lower? Browsing parts catalog, I've found I need to get 2 rear upper forwards, which are identical for both left and right side of car, and then a rear left upper rearward and a rear right upper rearward.
Any other control arms? Are there any rear lower control arms? What's this "wishbone" part, is it recommended that I replace that too?
Anything else I missed in the rear? How do these brands compare: Dorman, Mevotech, Moog, Beck Arnley, Replacement, TRW? I heard to stay away from Dorman and Mevotech. I got all Moog stuff for my front, but Parts Geek doesn't have any Moog rearl control arms or sway bar links. I'm trying to keep the spending mid-range. Thanks.
I've replaced the whole front: struts and mounts with new bellows and bump stops, upper and lower control arms, the whole tie rod assembly, and sway bar links.
This was the most physically demanding car DYI ever...more physically demanding than installing a suspension lift on my Jeep. Some of the ball joints just wouldn't come apart, I had to beat'em, heat'em, pry'em. Nothing really went smooth and I had to get creative and what seems like a simple task of screwing nuts and bolts, took hours and hours of fitting, checking, torquing, checking again, lining up.
The moment I got behind the wheel, it felt like a different car, or more like the car I picked up 8 years ago. The steering wheel is heavy as hell, even a bit too heavy for my liking. Responsiveness is great, a slight move of the steering wheel gets the car to respond immediately. Car feels "very sure of itself" on the road, it's like a tank. I kept the old springs, I inspected them, they were in great shape, couple minor rust spots I sanded off, then lightly sanded the whole springs down, primed and painted them, look like new. Maybe the car sits an inch lower with them, but that's what people get when they buy lowering springs anyway.
Now time to do the rear. Instead of taking apart the rear and inspecting what needs to be replaced, and have the car sit for a week while the parts come in, I decided to keep driving and put together a list of things I'm ordering. I'd appreciate any additional advice on what I should repalce with the rear:
1) shocks, shock mounts and bump stops (there are no bellows on these shocks, right?)
2) 2 sway bar links
3) control arms - how many are there in the rear? same as for front, i.e. 2 upper and 2 lower? Browsing parts catalog, I've found I need to get 2 rear upper forwards, which are identical for both left and right side of car, and then a rear left upper rearward and a rear right upper rearward.
Any other control arms? Are there any rear lower control arms? What's this "wishbone" part, is it recommended that I replace that too?
Anything else I missed in the rear? How do these brands compare: Dorman, Mevotech, Moog, Beck Arnley, Replacement, TRW? I heard to stay away from Dorman and Mevotech. I got all Moog stuff for my front, but Parts Geek doesn't have any Moog rearl control arms or sway bar links. I'm trying to keep the spending mid-range. Thanks.
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