Is this a fairly difficult job to undertake if you haven't really done any mechanics before?

 

Its not too bad. It looks more difficult than it is in reality. Half the battle is having the right tools i.e. you will need a T45 torx to undo the EGR at the manifold. Provided you take your time, follow Jason's DIY and are methodical you should be okay.

 

A great DIY JasonH!!
Managed to get both thermostats changed today , it was outside, but as Kerb said above, I took my time, was methodical and followed Jason's DIY and managed to get it all done before it started to rain . I should have listened to LOZ about covering the radiator ends as I scrapped my forearms a few times, but saving the cost not having the stealer doing it made it worth while.

The car is running rock solid at 90 degrees! Will keep an eye on the coolant levels over the next few weeks, but managed to get most of the air out I hope.

A tip when refilling and bleeding, make sure you turn your heater settings to hot / highest temps and turn on the fan settings to low, this should help get some of the air out when bleeding it..

 

Hi Guys

I assume you flushed the coolant while it was partially drained?

What is the capacity of the cooling system for total refill?

Thanks

David

 

I didn't exactly flush the coolant I just let it all drain out and the refilled when the job was done. There is a drain plug somewhere on the side of the engine block to get the last bit out but I think it needs a new gasket once opened. A full fill is about 9 litres (although even the BMW dealer couldn't tell me the exact figure). I got 7.5 litres in (because I removed the main thermostat).

 

Thanks Jason

I did the job several weekends ago, and concur with your findings.

I did flush the system out however, by leaving a hose running through the block (which found its way to the matrix) and also, separately, the radiator.

Bleeding was easy... helped by a vaccum refil kit!

David

 

Hi guys,

I had to do it twice, the first thermostat I have bought from stealer it never went more than 80°C so I had to change it again, now it is nice between 88-92°C.

But now, I need bit of help, to find out, if there is another fault on the system, or it is normal:
As we are usually drive with AC ON, there is no really big demand for the cooling fan to run, as it is activated form the AC.

One day morning, it was bit cold and I just switch the AC OFF and than I have stacked in the traffic with slow movements for about 20 minutes and the temperature went to 97°C, dropped to 94-95 and back to 97°, when the traffic become better, it dropped back to 88-92°C.

I have tested this later on and I have found than this is happening as a normal thing, but I think this temperature is to high for the fan to start?

Can someone please try and let me know your temperature to switch the fan ON?

Thanks a lot

 

I think my car temp also gets this high when stuck in traffic but goes to a steady 88-90 once I get moving. I'll double check when I hit traffic again

 

Ok, thanks, please don't forget the AC has to be OFF

 

The running temp will hit 95C to 97C when it's doing a DPF regeneration cycle. That can be as often as every 500 miles or as far apart as 2000 miles. The regen takes from 10 mins to 20+ depending on the conditions and if you stop half-way through it'll start again on the next journey.