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Main Thermostat Change on a 535d

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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 07:08 AM
  #21  
madein's Avatar
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My Ride: M3 ZCP EX:2005 BMW 535D Sport, Estate, Steptronic, Carbon Black, Black Dakota leather, Head up Display, Profi Satnav, Bluetooth - only MULF module, Bi-xenon adaptive headlights, Sportseats, Cruise control, Active steeringMods: 19
Model Year: 2011
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Originally Posted by JasonH
The running temp will hit 95C to 97C when it's doing a DPF regeneration cycle. That can be as often as every 500 miles or as far apart as 2000 miles. The regen takes from 10 mins to 20+ depending on the conditions and if you stop half-way through it'll start again on the next journey.
This doesn't make sense, I know, this needs couple of things to start and as far as I can remember (I'm already over 30's can not remember everything ):

more than half of fuel - it was
you have to drive above some rpm - not really, up to 70mph (few minutes rest 50mph) rpm at 2000 max
you have to drive some distance at constant speed - not really most 50mph, last few miles 70mph

now the other thing - when I drive it is between 88-92°C, only if I stop without AC it goes higher 95-97°C, when the AC is ON it is about 90°C

The truth is than I have requested the regeneration from the ECU; however I'm sure I didn't fulfil the condition to start, I'll check the computer again and I'll find out.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 02:03 PM
  #22  
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My DPF is blocked and reading this I suspect it's because it never regenerated because the temperature never got above 75..
anyway I changed both thermostats and took a few pictures..thanks for all the info







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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 02:51 AM
  #23  
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Thanks for the pics, great help.

I will copy them onto another BMW Forum (and give you credit for them).
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:57 AM
  #24  
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Hi,

Short question: during winter time on the motorway, the readout is between 68-75,while going up when driving in the city to 92. Should I replace the stat, or does the outside temp have such a big impact?

Thanks,
Liam
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 03:40 AM
  #25  
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I just changed the main thermostat yesterday - my additional advice

On my car the EGR cooler has a flexible pipe; I ended loosening the 3 hex bolts, but not the T45 torx bolts. This allowed me to bend the flex pipe of the EGR cooler out of the way to get access to the thermostat.
Saves some time and reduced risk of losing the T45s.

Unfortunately it didn't solve my temperature problem... I guess I should have tackled the EGR thermostat first... :thumbsdown:
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 04:26 AM
  #26  
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Both was gone on my 535d from mid 06
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 01:26 AM
  #27  
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Replaced the EGR stat last night - now runs at a steady 92. I'm a happy camper.
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 12:29 PM
  #28  
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Finished both off in 2 hours in freezing cold and snow.

MPG now slowly cruising up and temp into the 80s and 90s.

Cheers to all that posted
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 08:05 AM
  #29  
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Hi Gusto you say you did the job in 2hrs have you any tips that you used to make the job so quick?
I am about to do mine and still having read this section still cant get my head round it all.
I intend to clean the EGR stat and replace with new the main stat.
Maybe when I see the new stat all will become clear.
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #30  
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Default Thanks to all

Big thanks to JasonH and also to bikerfrenzy for the pics!

My late 2007 530d, with 108K miles, was running 68degrees (I only tested and started poking about the forums when I realised that, no matter how high I turned the heater up, I needed to keep a fleece, hat and gloves on during my 1hr drive to work each day! ). Last weekend I swapped the EGR stat when I had the manifold off removing the swirl flaps, during the week coolant temp climbed up to high 70s. Yesterday I did the main stat and I'm now running 90-93 degrees (also replaced the coolant as it was overdue).

Nice

For anyone about to replaced the stats, FYI I struggled with the connection between the EGR cooler and the exhaust manifold (two T30 torx), but actually managed to get a regular 10mm ring spanner in the gap and removed the tricky last thermostat bolt with the EGR cooler still attached - it's worth anyone trying this if struggling with either the exhaust manifold bolts or removing the air intake to gain access.


Thanks for the thread all, much appreciated...

PS got bored repeatedly pushing buttons for the hidden menu stuff, so got myself a cheapo bluetooth OBD off ebay and put Torque on my phone - much recommended for those who haven't yet.
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