KyleB,

I have a Craftsman multi-meter that can measure temperatures, can I apply such a tool for this transmission service? How the heck do I use it??? Do I touch the tool leads (black and red) together and touch the pan concurrently??? I really don't want to mess up my perfectly working transmission, because I know it will be expensive and time consuming to replace! lol

Thanks!

 

I'd probably pick up some sort of infrared temp gun if you don't have access to INPA or a similar software package. They're a lot cheaper than they used to be (Harbor Freight has them). I'd trust something like that more than a hand held multi-meter. Not wanting to mess up a perfectly working transmission is definitely the right frame of mind!

If in the end you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself, it might be worth it to pay someone. This is a very complex and exspensive transmission, now is definitely not the time to take unnecessary risks or cut corners

best of luck with the car.

 

I can fix anything if I have enough energy, dedication, time and money. At the moment, all of the above are limited and in question. j/k ;-)

 

KyleB
No threadjacking. Every opinion is important.

I intentionally used a new, light colored pan into which I drained the 1st time. I wanted to see if there were any contaminants. None, and the two inner magnets had a very, very light gray metallic coating. It was less than shown on the BavAuto video.

The filter showed no contaminants when I opened it.

I just feel that it's OK if one wants to change out the filter assembly. It is ONLY my opinion that since no visible contaminants were present I am not sure it is necessary.

As to temperature, I watched the BavAuto and the ECSTuning videos, and I read a few docs concerning the procedure.

ZF says temp must be between 30 - 35C (86-95 farenheiht). I am comfortable I was in that range.

Maybe next time I'll buy and use a digital gauge, but I still think I am close.

I even wait a minute or two after the fill with fill plug off to make sure temp was right, the overflow output was accurate, and any air is out.

I can say the fluid is vastly different now than it was, and the tranny is operating very well.

E60I,

I use my wood ramps for rear wheels and small jack stands for the front two positions. Everything is done while vehicle is above ground.

The 1st time the car was cold. I did not want to fight cats and hot parts. After pan replacement and 1st fill I let the car run for a while to get warm before the final fill.

2nd fill the car was warm, and I let it run a bit after the 1st fill to allow the fluid to warm. It was then I started feeling the pan to get the oil temp.

 

Tranny continues to shift beautifully and smoothly.

Surprisingly a noticeable fuel mileage increase!

I am certain from clean fast shifts.

The fluid change is a definite needed improvement

 

good to hear. So much for BMWs 'lifetime fill' theory....

 

It is quite a nice difference.

I'll put 400-500 miles on this fluid, drain it, use my hand pump to empty the residue collected in the pan,
calculate how much came out for reference, and then fill it again.

The Motorcraft Mercon SP is relatively cheap.

So frequent flushes will clean the system.

Had to do the same with the Ferrari transmission. Three flushes before it was clean!

 

I drained and refilled my P/S system today, and in so doing learned how to remove the pressure fittings on the systems.

Removing the one at the radiator cooler location drained the system completely.

My next tranny drain and refill I am removing the cooler fillting at the tranny cooler and will let the lines drain out all that dirty fluid.

Maybe for one I will get a nearly 100% drain.

Will advise when I get to it in 2 weeks (waiting to put a few more miles on current fill)

 

So I have all the metric dies and taps I need for the plug and we have started machining the first few drain plug samples.

More to come

It will be liked by all.

 

^sweet.