gcalo

I took my time and tried doing it in an organized manner especially being concerned for being under the vehicle for a few hours!

I tell you that replacing the pan and filter now makes no clear sense to me.

I really think that frequent fluid changes are most important, and seeing the actual filter material convinces me that regular flushes alone will keep the tranny clean and properly functioning..

gcalo

Let me known if you need any help with yours

gcalo

So today I drained and refilled the tranny again with Motorcraft Mercon SP.

To my surprise, only 4 - 4.2 pints actually came out! Four (4) pints went in. The pan holds about a pint to pint and 1/2. So you'll never see 5 1/2 going in unless you get all the pan residual out.

Next drain I'll either lower the front to allow more to drain, or I will use a suction pump to pull it out.

Also of surprise was that the fluid was dark after 169 miles since 1st flush.

It was not stinky as was that which came out on the 1st drain nor was it as dirty as the original. However, it was dark.

So I do not think that the statement of 90% replacement with a second flush is completely accurate!

The torque converter holds at least 3 pints, and it takes a while to flush that out apparently.

Once again my theory of not replacing the filter/pan still holds value for me.

Frequent flushes are the key.

I am going to do it again in 500 - 1,000 miles since the Mercon SP at O'Reilly Auto parts is only $5.50 per quart per case.

gcalo

Tranny is doing great.

It is shifting beautifully and without any delay, and I have noticed that fuel mileage is up.

I believe that is due to the quicker shifts.

Do it folks, and do it a few times to clean out the heavy residue.

E60I

Hi Gcalo,

I have the parts for over a year now. What you are saying, sounds very tempting...

If you are not using INPA to measure the engine operating temperature on the final fill, would you mind elaborate how you go about doing it? Is it safe to run the engine for five minutes and fill in the rest?

Thanks.

gcalo

After the 1st fill and running through each gear for a 1-5 count, I let the car run for 5-10 minutes.

I feel the plastic pan and then compare that to the temp of the aluminum tranny housing. I am doing this by feel remember. The tranny housing being aluminum will always have a higher temp.

If I can somewhat comfortably put my hand on the pan the temp is about correct.

I go also by the temp of the fill plug that is screwed in only a few turns. That is going to be hotter than the pan for sure!

I could purchase a digital temp gauge, but I feel I am getting close enough to the correct temp.

The oil is heating mostly by the turning torque converter.

You can get a feel for it. How off can one be?

And again I emphasize that I feel replacing the pan is an absolute waste of money, but that's my position after seeing the condition of my "filter" after 114,000 miles.

It's not like an engine oil filter. The tranny is not getting bombarded with combustion bypass gasses, etc. as is the engine oil. So engine oil filter change for oil is very critical.

I don't see that for the tranny in light of BMW saying it's a sealed system which we all know is absurd!

There are plenty on this site far more experienced with BMW maintenance than I. So hopefully some of those can chime in as well.

E60I

Unfortunately, I already bought the ZF filter/pan. The car has about 87,000 miles. Yeah, I think I will change just the fluid (BMW brand) for now.

Thanks!

gcalo

If you have the filter and you can get the car up to clear 12" and ensure it's level you can change out your filter.

It's no fun from the ground though.

If changing out the fluid this time let it fully drain and then use some type hand pump to suck out as much as is possible from the pan.

The idea is to get as much of the old fluid out as is possible.

I think it takes 3-4 complete flushes to really get that gearbox fluid clean.

ATF is relatively cheap.

KyleB

guys, measure your trans temps when doing this, and not changing out filters per ZFs recommendations is not a good idea IMO. Just because you can't 'see' contaminants in there, doesn't mean they aren't there. Replacing the pan in this car is so easy, I don't know why anyone wouldn't do it. Why risk failure on a $5000 transmission? Transmissions (and engines for that matter) function best with fresh, clean, contaminate free fluids. This is why you should change your filter regularly. ZF knows more about this transmission than all of us here combined, and they deemed a filter necessary.

Anyone who has done this and properly measured trans temps will tell you that you go from proper filling temperature to 'too hot' very, VERY quickly. Transmission internals and fluids expand under heat. By prescribing a specific temperature for the filling period, ZF is ensuring that all of us are getting the proper amount of fluid in, whether you are doing this in an Alaskan winter or the heat of an Arizona summer. If you are doing this by feel, you run the risk of overfilling or underfilling your gearbox, either of which can result in catastrophic gearbox failure.

I hate to threadjack, but there is the correct, ZF outlined way of doing this and then there is everything else. A new transmission is around $5000.

https://5series.net/forums/diy-do-yo...thread-137584/

E60I

Ultimately, I'd prefer to have the filter/pan and mechatronic sleeve replaced since I already bought them.

Lifting and requiring all four wheels to be above the ground and leveled sound so tedious and risky. I must push and motivate myself this weekend!!! :-)

Since you have done it twice already, did you run the engine to operating temperature before you drained the fluid? Did you do it while the engine is on the ground or above?

Thanks!