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DIY - Fuel Filter/Sending Unit Swap

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Old 09-05-2012 | 08:11 PM
  #31  
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Just bought the same fuel filter! Great write up hope i dont mess it up
Old 09-13-2012 | 09:15 PM
  #32  
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Does anyone know an easy way to take that collar nut off? things not coming off i used a punch and a hammer and its slowly moving but not enough to even get loose
Old 09-14-2012 | 01:43 AM
  #33  
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Use a tool similar to this. I used a big flat head screwdriver and a hammer and ended up buying 2 sets of filters and a new fuel pump (it's a long story).
DIY - Fuel Filter/Sending Unit Swap-2012_0321_130812.jpg

Originally Posted by Jonoballer
Does anyone know an easy way to take that collar nut off? things not coming off i used a punch and a hammer and its slowly moving but not enough to even get loose
Old 09-15-2012 | 08:20 PM
  #34  
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^ thats a good idea mentioned above. i jerry rigged something like that also. i hate the idea of pounding on the plastic tank with a hammer.
Old 09-17-2012 | 01:29 PM
  #35  
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thanks for the help, i thought germans we a bit smarter when it came to this :thumbsdown:
Old 10-12-2012 | 04:08 PM
  #36  
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Thank You for the post, I did this today, Replaced my Sending Unit on the left Tank and also the tube that goes from the top of the sending unit going to the bottom of the car.. Was getting a leak from the left tank and bought the 2 pcs found out that there was a hairline crack on top of the sending unit where the fuel line goes..
Old 10-30-2012 | 04:40 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jgt
Great DIY!

What benefits have you noticed? MPG improvement? Smoother idle? Better acceleration?
Glad you can benefit. Now close the Credit card dispute you initiated because you took back your money and kept my stealthbox. Now I'm out a stealth box and $375. I'll give you a few weeks then I'll contact the FBI local office for interstate fraud. You disappoint me.
Old 10-11-2013 | 11:41 AM
  #38  
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I'm changing the sending unit today on my '06 525i. The base of the post developed a hairline fracture and began to leak gasoline. My collar nut was very VERY difficult to remove. After trying with a screwdriver and hammer, then two screwdrivers, I found the best tool (aside from massive channel locks) is using a 9" extension for a 3/8" socket. It protected the tabs a bit more from being pried out by the flathead screwdriver.
Old 11-11-2013 | 10:44 PM
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I was barely able to get the collar nut off, but I did it. I exchanged the unit which was simple enough then drove down to the gas station and filled up my tank. The car drives great, though tomorrow morning I'll know if it still has a rough idle in the cold.

My major problem is, the fuel level only went to 3/4 fill mark. I'm planning on driving the car until the tank is near empty and opening the filter again. My concern is that the seal will need to be replaced again and what if there's nothing interfering with the float?

Is there a calibration process for this that I forgot to do?
Old 11-13-2013 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by kneemah
I was barely able to get the collar nut off, but I did it. I exchanged the unit which was simple enough then drove down to the gas station and filled up my tank. The car drives great, though tomorrow morning I'll know if it still has a rough idle in the cold.

My major problem is, the fuel level only went to 3/4 fill mark. I'm planning on driving the car until the tank is near empty and opening the filter again. My concern is that the seal will need to be replaced again and what if there's nothing interfering with the float?

Is there a calibration process for this that I forgot to do?
did you maybe bend the float arm when you put it in the tank? it seems easy to tweak.


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