DIY: 2004 5 Series Halogen to Xenon Conversion
09-03-2005, 04:22 AM
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For those of you interested out there, yes it is possible, yes it is pretty easy to do. First of all i have to do the disclaimer:
This Write up is for entertainment purposes only, anything that you the reader, or anyone you the reader tells, does to their car is their resposibility and I the writer is not in any way responsible.
This is not perfect, you still will get a single check control message, i'm figuring it out as we speak, so wish me luck.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
Xenon Headlamps (Including Ballasts/Igniters, and Bulbs)
Splice Connectors
Butt Connectors
Relay (2 if you wanna try that option)
1) Remove the headlights, 2 T-30 Torx Screws on top (REMOVE), 2 8mm socket screws down below, LOOSEN DO NOT REMOVE, i can gaurantee if you remove them you will lose at least one. Be careful. Remove the HIGH BEAM Cover, it will clear the space you need to remove the headlight. Now gently finagle the headlight out. It'll be a lil hard to get out, but don't give up and be careful or you'll scratch the paint.
2) Open up the low beam cover of the new lights. On both lights you have to disconnect the adaptive headlight motor its a connector between the low and high beam covers, its about 1 - 2 inches wide, its vertical. (REASON : The green wire that runs the high beam flap in the xenon headlight, you can tie this wire into the high beam lead if you really want to, but i don't know if it will work, i didn't try, and wouldn't recommend it, the current flow would throw a warning light most likely, by the way, the green wire on the halogen lights ran the second light bulb for the angel eyes)
3) Still inside the light, in the low beam area, under the projector, you have to splice both BROWN wires together, don't sever either one. (The second brown wire is for the Xenon Ballast/Igniter, and goes to the last pin on the connector for the headlight, the one thats not on the Halogen wiring harness) your connecting them together to give the xenon ballast/igniter a ground.
4) Put the headlight back together.
I'll finish it if i get some interest otherwise i won't keep using my time to finish this up.
This Write up is for entertainment purposes only, anything that you the reader, or anyone you the reader tells, does to their car is their resposibility and I the writer is not in any way responsible.
This is not perfect, you still will get a single check control message, i'm figuring it out as we speak, so wish me luck.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
Xenon Headlamps (Including Ballasts/Igniters, and Bulbs)
Splice Connectors
Butt Connectors
Relay (2 if you wanna try that option)
1) Remove the headlights, 2 T-30 Torx Screws on top (REMOVE), 2 8mm socket screws down below, LOOSEN DO NOT REMOVE, i can gaurantee if you remove them you will lose at least one. Be careful. Remove the HIGH BEAM Cover, it will clear the space you need to remove the headlight. Now gently finagle the headlight out. It'll be a lil hard to get out, but don't give up and be careful or you'll scratch the paint.
2) Open up the low beam cover of the new lights. On both lights you have to disconnect the adaptive headlight motor its a connector between the low and high beam covers, its about 1 - 2 inches wide, its vertical. (REASON : The green wire that runs the high beam flap in the xenon headlight, you can tie this wire into the high beam lead if you really want to, but i don't know if it will work, i didn't try, and wouldn't recommend it, the current flow would throw a warning light most likely, by the way, the green wire on the halogen lights ran the second light bulb for the angel eyes)
3) Still inside the light, in the low beam area, under the projector, you have to splice both BROWN wires together, don't sever either one. (The second brown wire is for the Xenon Ballast/Igniter, and goes to the last pin on the connector for the headlight, the one thats not on the Halogen wiring harness) your connecting them together to give the xenon ballast/igniter a ground.
4) Put the headlight back together.
I'll finish it if i get some interest otherwise i won't keep using my time to finish this up.
09-03-2005, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by E60Speed' date='Sep 3 2005, 07:30 AM
Just buy the OEM BMW retrofit kit, with all the correct control boxes and retrofit wiring adaptors
[snapback]166546[/snapback]
My install cost pretty cheap if you ask me, less then the price of the housings at a dealer.
09-04-2005, 03:09 AM
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My Ride: E60 530i
Model Year: 2004
Engine: M54
Originally Posted by xrsxj' date='Sep 3 2005, 07:22 AM
For those of you interested out there, yes it is possible, yes it is pretty easy to do.? First of all i have to do the disclaimer:
This Write up is for entertainment purposes only, anything that you the reader, or anyone you the reader tells, does to their car is their resposibility and I the writer is not in any way responsible.
This is not perfect, you still will get a single check control message, i'm figuring it out as we speak, so wish me luck.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
Xenon Headlamps (Including Ballasts/Igniters, and Bulbs)
Splice Connectors
Butt Connectors
Relay (2 if you wanna try that option)
1) Remove the headlights, 2 T-30 Torx Screws on top (REMOVE), 2 8mm socket screws down below, LOOSEN DO NOT REMOVE, i can gaurantee if you remove them you will lose at least one. Be careful.? Remove the HIGH BEAM Cover, it will clear the space you need to remove the headlight.? Now gently finagle the headlight out.? It'll be a lil hard to get out, but don't give up and be careful or you'll scratch the paint.
2) Open up the low beam cover of the new lights.? On both lights you have to disconnect the adaptive headlight motor its a connector between the low and high beam covers, its about 1 - 2 inches wide, its vertical. (REASON : The green wire that runs the high beam flap in the xenon headlight, you can tie this wire into the high beam lead if you really want to, but i don't know if it will work, i didn't try, and wouldn't recommend it, the current flow would throw a warning light most likely, by the way, the green wire on the halogen lights ran the second light bulb for the angel eyes)
3)? Still inside the light, in the low beam area, under the projector, you have to splice both BROWN wires together, don't sever either one. (The second brown wire is for the Xenon Ballast/Igniter, and goes to the last pin on the connector for the headlight, the one thats not on the Halogen wiring harness) your connecting them together to give the xenon ballast/igniter a ground.
4) Put the headlight back together.
I'll finish it if i get some interest otherwise i won't keep using my time to finish this up.
This Write up is for entertainment purposes only, anything that you the reader, or anyone you the reader tells, does to their car is their resposibility and I the writer is not in any way responsible.
This is not perfect, you still will get a single check control message, i'm figuring it out as we speak, so wish me luck.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
Xenon Headlamps (Including Ballasts/Igniters, and Bulbs)
Splice Connectors
Butt Connectors
Relay (2 if you wanna try that option)
1) Remove the headlights, 2 T-30 Torx Screws on top (REMOVE), 2 8mm socket screws down below, LOOSEN DO NOT REMOVE, i can gaurantee if you remove them you will lose at least one. Be careful.? Remove the HIGH BEAM Cover, it will clear the space you need to remove the headlight.? Now gently finagle the headlight out.? It'll be a lil hard to get out, but don't give up and be careful or you'll scratch the paint.
2) Open up the low beam cover of the new lights.? On both lights you have to disconnect the adaptive headlight motor its a connector between the low and high beam covers, its about 1 - 2 inches wide, its vertical. (REASON : The green wire that runs the high beam flap in the xenon headlight, you can tie this wire into the high beam lead if you really want to, but i don't know if it will work, i didn't try, and wouldn't recommend it, the current flow would throw a warning light most likely, by the way, the green wire on the halogen lights ran the second light bulb for the angel eyes)
3)? Still inside the light, in the low beam area, under the projector, you have to splice both BROWN wires together, don't sever either one. (The second brown wire is for the Xenon Ballast/Igniter, and goes to the last pin on the connector for the headlight, the one thats not on the Halogen wiring harness) your connecting them together to give the xenon ballast/igniter a ground.
4) Put the headlight back together.
I'll finish it if i get some interest otherwise i won't keep using my time to finish this up.
[snapback]166534[/snapback]
Thanks,
09-04-2005, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by lcc014' date='Sep 4 2005, 04:09 AM
How do you get to the lower 8mm socket screws ?? Do you need to remove the bumper to get to it ??
Thanks,
Thanks,
[snapback]166790[/snapback]
09-05-2005, 04:33 PM
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My Ride: E60 530i
Model Year: 2004
Engine: M54
Originally Posted by xrsxj' date='Sep 4 2005, 11:51 AM
[quote name='lcc014' date='Sep 4 2005, 04:09 AM']
How do you get to the lower 8mm socket screws ?? Do you need to remove the bumper to get to it ??
Thanks,
How do you get to the lower 8mm socket screws ?? Do you need to remove the bumper to get to it ??
Thanks,
[snapback]166790[/snapback]
[snapback]166838[/snapback]
[/quote]Thanks,
09-06-2005, 11:50 AM
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My Ride: Gone: 2004 525i Jet Black, Built 03/04, Premium Package, Black Dakota Leather, Halogen to Euro Spec Bi-Xenons Retrofit, Dark Poplar Wood Trim, Steptronic Breyton Spirit Reps 20x9F 20x10R - Nitto NT555 245/35/20F-275/30/20R, M5 Front Bumper, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Grills, 20% Tint, Euro Reflectors, Debadged, Aux Input, CIP v19.x
good information, please finish your write-up. looks like there's hope after all for us halogen users.
09-06-2005, 08:02 PM
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well i have good news and bad news. for those of you wanting to complete this, there are two choices:
continue to recieve lowbeam failure warnings, or deal with your foglamps being on with your low beams.
continue to recieve lowbeam failure warnings, or deal with your foglamps being on with your low beams.
09-06-2005, 08:14 PM
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continuing....
5) Just in case everyone is wondering you can wire the bi-xenons in line with your high beams and they seem to work fine. DOWN SIDE!!!! You must disable your DRL's at the dealer. Other wise the Bixenon Solenoid will DIE. For those of you wanting to wire it in, just tap the green wire that runs right next to a brown wire on the harness we disconnected between the heigh beam and low beam covers, taop in it into the white wire on the hgih beam bulb connector. There are a lot of wires and not alot of space, so be careful and take your time, no harm splicing/taping the wrong wire, no power will come from or go to the other green wire. Although it may set the swivel motor to the side, which would be a bit of a pain.
6) Now that all the headlight is back together lets start to work on the wiring harnesses.
7) For my install, i installed a relay that relayed a direct line from power to the lights, not the best idea in retrospect but it was late and i was tired and not thinking the straightest, the problem was that the initial current draw of the xenon igniters, triggered the circuit malfunc. and the lights were disabled. So you have to install a relay on the LARGE YELLOW WIRE in the wiring harnesses, I won't go into too much detail here, becuase if you don't know how to wire in a relay you shouldn't be messing with a system that works with about 20-25 THOUSAND VOLTS, like i said be careful. The large yellow wire is the power wire for the headlights, cut it and use it as the positive signal (Use the side that goes to the car) and tap the brown wire (the main ground wire) for the - wire. I think those are terminals 85 and 86, by the way i used DPST relays (Dual Pole Single Throw, meaning, power is aplied to terminal 85 and grounded at 86, which triggers terminal 30 to connect to terminal 87a, when power is off its connected to terminal 87) Try to find water proof relays other wise when you wash your car your headlights will stop working. Install a new wire from power to terminal 30, and the other side (the side that goes to the connector) of the large yellow wire connects to terminal 87a. (Do the same on BOTH SIDES)
8) Splice the power wire (The wire thats not brown) on the fog lamps with a new wire and tap that wire into the wire we just installed on terminal 85/86 (THE large yellow one that goes to the car, it will make sure we don't have any annoying messages of malfunctions, the other option is to tap one of the wires (explained next step) for the angel eyes, but then when you turn your parking lights on and not your headlights, your headlights will go on. Which ever you would rather have on wire in (No seperate parking lamps, or no seperate fog lamps) keep in mind if you turn on your foglamps when your parking lamps are on you will turn on your headlamps as well. Either way you won't get annoying messages. There are probably other ways to pull it off, but i'll leave that to you guys.
8) On the passenger side first, you have to locate the top wire on the wiring harness connector and the bottom wire, they should be the wires for the ANGEL EYES, the new Xenon setup uses one bulb and a fiber optic setup to light the angel eyes, the old setup used one small bulb per angel eye ring. So you have to tap the two wires together. Again don't sever either one, for the sake of being able to go back to stock. (Do the same on the Driver Side as well, wire positions will be the same, wire color will be different.)
9) My memory is a bit dim right this second, but that should get everything on with no problems.
10) Email me at philip@deenron.com with any questions, or with any ideas on how to get around the parking lamp, fog lamp work around.
Total Cost of Project (eBay Aholic, i know)
eBay
Driver Side Light (124.99 shipped)
Passenger Side Light (200.00 shipped)
Ballasts/Igniters and Bulbs (280.00 shipped (express shipping))
Harware Store
Butt connectors (5.00)
Splice Connectors (5.00)
Relays (Free (off of a wrecked previous car)) But they would run about 2.50-3.00 at Radio shack
Wire 50' (WAY TOO MUCH) (10.00)
Fuse for power wire (5.00 with holder)
~635.00, judge that against the dealer retrofit kit for 1,900(eBay Euro)-2,300(Dealer Quoted with install)
I think its a reasonable thing to try now.
Like I said questions, comments, ideas, email me philip@deenron.com
5) Just in case everyone is wondering you can wire the bi-xenons in line with your high beams and they seem to work fine. DOWN SIDE!!!! You must disable your DRL's at the dealer. Other wise the Bixenon Solenoid will DIE. For those of you wanting to wire it in, just tap the green wire that runs right next to a brown wire on the harness we disconnected between the heigh beam and low beam covers, taop in it into the white wire on the hgih beam bulb connector. There are a lot of wires and not alot of space, so be careful and take your time, no harm splicing/taping the wrong wire, no power will come from or go to the other green wire. Although it may set the swivel motor to the side, which would be a bit of a pain.
6) Now that all the headlight is back together lets start to work on the wiring harnesses.
7) For my install, i installed a relay that relayed a direct line from power to the lights, not the best idea in retrospect but it was late and i was tired and not thinking the straightest, the problem was that the initial current draw of the xenon igniters, triggered the circuit malfunc. and the lights were disabled. So you have to install a relay on the LARGE YELLOW WIRE in the wiring harnesses, I won't go into too much detail here, becuase if you don't know how to wire in a relay you shouldn't be messing with a system that works with about 20-25 THOUSAND VOLTS, like i said be careful. The large yellow wire is the power wire for the headlights, cut it and use it as the positive signal (Use the side that goes to the car) and tap the brown wire (the main ground wire) for the - wire. I think those are terminals 85 and 86, by the way i used DPST relays (Dual Pole Single Throw, meaning, power is aplied to terminal 85 and grounded at 86, which triggers terminal 30 to connect to terminal 87a, when power is off its connected to terminal 87) Try to find water proof relays other wise when you wash your car your headlights will stop working. Install a new wire from power to terminal 30, and the other side (the side that goes to the connector) of the large yellow wire connects to terminal 87a. (Do the same on BOTH SIDES)
8) Splice the power wire (The wire thats not brown) on the fog lamps with a new wire and tap that wire into the wire we just installed on terminal 85/86 (THE large yellow one that goes to the car, it will make sure we don't have any annoying messages of malfunctions, the other option is to tap one of the wires (explained next step) for the angel eyes, but then when you turn your parking lights on and not your headlights, your headlights will go on. Which ever you would rather have on wire in (No seperate parking lamps, or no seperate fog lamps) keep in mind if you turn on your foglamps when your parking lamps are on you will turn on your headlamps as well. Either way you won't get annoying messages. There are probably other ways to pull it off, but i'll leave that to you guys.
8) On the passenger side first, you have to locate the top wire on the wiring harness connector and the bottom wire, they should be the wires for the ANGEL EYES, the new Xenon setup uses one bulb and a fiber optic setup to light the angel eyes, the old setup used one small bulb per angel eye ring. So you have to tap the two wires together. Again don't sever either one, for the sake of being able to go back to stock. (Do the same on the Driver Side as well, wire positions will be the same, wire color will be different.)
9) My memory is a bit dim right this second, but that should get everything on with no problems.
10) Email me at philip@deenron.com with any questions, or with any ideas on how to get around the parking lamp, fog lamp work around.
Total Cost of Project (eBay Aholic, i know)
eBay
Driver Side Light (124.99 shipped)
Passenger Side Light (200.00 shipped)
Ballasts/Igniters and Bulbs (280.00 shipped (express shipping))
Harware Store
Butt connectors (5.00)
Splice Connectors (5.00)
Relays (Free (off of a wrecked previous car)) But they would run about 2.50-3.00 at Radio shack
Wire 50' (WAY TOO MUCH) (10.00)
Fuse for power wire (5.00 with holder)
~635.00, judge that against the dealer retrofit kit for 1,900(eBay Euro)-2,300(Dealer Quoted with install)
I think its a reasonable thing to try now.
Like I said questions, comments, ideas, email me philip@deenron.com
09-06-2005, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by xrsxj' date='Sep 6 2005, 09:14 PM
8) Splice the power wire (The wire thats not brown) on the fog lamps with a new wire and tap that wire into the wire we just installed on terminal 85/86 (THE large yellow one that goes to the car, it will make sure we don't have any annoying messages of malfunctions, the other option is to tap one of the wires (explained next step) for the angel eyes, but then when you turn your parking lights on and not your headlights, your headlights will go on.? Which ever you would rather have on wire in (No seperate parking lamps, or no seperate fog lamps) keep in mind if you turn on your foglamps when your parking lamps are on you will turn on your headlamps as well.? Either way you won't get annoying messages.? There are probably other ways to pull it off, but i'll leave that to you guys.
Like I said questions, comments, ideas, email me philip@deenron.com
Like I said questions, comments, ideas, email me philip@deenron.com
[snapback]167739[/snapback]
Wouldn't using a power resistor instead of the foglamp or angel eyes do the same thing? The resistor should fool the car into thinking that there is a light bulb there and not give any error messages. They use the same type of setup when changing incandescent bulbs to LED's. Here are some pics:
