Control/Tension Arm Remove and Replace
07-26-2010, 03:45 PM
#11
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Model Year: 2006
LOL,
Yeah... it was pretty relaxing actually. I had the front of the car lifted and all the under panels removed before John got to my place to be well prepared. We took a break after removing the driver-side first (took 15 minutes). Then we put the new one in. Wee took another break. We did the passenger side. This one was a bit tougher just because the ball joint nut was rather hard to get loose (took 30 minutes). Took another break. John's buddy came over this time so the break was about 30 minutes with 2 beers each.
Then we put the new one in. Took another break. NO joke. 
By this time we both had 4 Coronas! After we put all the panels back on and the tires, we took another beer for good measure. 
Anyways,
About the symptoms leading to the event. I had a rather loud "knock" coming from the front suspension a while back but it was come-n-go type of noise so I didn't mind it much. I figured I'd get to it when I had some time to inspect the entire front sub frame. Some 3 weeks ago, I had the time to do just that. In the process, I found that the noise case from the strut bar atop the suspension. 2 of the 4 screws were a bit loose so I tightened them and NO MORE NOISE! I then proceeded to inspect all the bushings around the suspension components and found that the driver side one had a good size crack it in. Not worn enough to cause shuddering or vibration while driving but was failing nevertheless.
Yeah... it was pretty relaxing actually. I had the front of the car lifted and all the under panels removed before John got to my place to be well prepared. We took a break after removing the driver-side first (took 15 minutes). Then we put the new one in. Wee took another break. We did the passenger side. This one was a bit tougher just because the ball joint nut was rather hard to get loose (took 30 minutes). Took another break. John's buddy came over this time so the break was about 30 minutes with 2 beers each.
Then we put the new one in. Took another break. NO joke. By this time we both had 4 Coronas! After we put all the panels back on and the tires, we took another beer for good measure. Anyways,
About the symptoms leading to the event. I had a rather loud "knock" coming from the front suspension a while back but it was come-n-go type of noise so I didn't mind it much. I figured I'd get to it when I had some time to inspect the entire front sub frame. Some 3 weeks ago, I had the time to do just that. In the process, I found that the noise case from the strut bar atop the suspension. 2 of the 4 screws were a bit loose so I tightened them and NO MORE NOISE!
I then proceeded to inspect all the bushings around the suspension components and found that the driver side one had a good size crack it in. Not worn enough to cause shuddering or vibration while driving but was failing nevertheless.
Great job troubleshooting!
07-28-2010, 12:31 PM
#13
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What brand is the FCP Proton's control arm? Chinese made or Germany made?
How about the quality of the bushing, ball joint and the aluminum arm?
I looked around there are couple of choices of brands:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ntrol_arm.html
Febi Bilstein, Lemforder, Mefotech, maybe others.
How about the quality of the bushing, ball joint and the aluminum arm?
I looked around there are couple of choices of brands:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ntrol_arm.html
Febi Bilstein, Lemforder, Mefotech, maybe others.
07-28-2010, 01:17 PM
#14
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My Ride: '05 545i SMG, 35% Tint, LED Angel Eyes
What brand is the FCP Proton's control arm? Chinese made or Germany made?
How about the quality of the bushing, ball joint and the aluminum arm?
I looked around there are couple of choices of brands:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ntrol_arm.html
Febi Bilstein, Lemforder, Mefotech, maybe others.
How about the quality of the bushing, ball joint and the aluminum arm?
I looked around there are couple of choices of brands:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ntrol_arm.html
Febi Bilstein, Lemforder, Mefotech, maybe others.
I checked the quality and weight of the FCP part and they were pretty much the same. All that was missing were the stampings on the arms themselves.
To my understanding, Lemforder is the OEM manufacturer for this part. That's why it's the most expensive. FCP also carries this part as well but it costs more that twice as much. Since the FCP brand came with a lifetime warranty, I just decided to save a little $$$.
07-29-2010, 09:42 AM
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Thanks for the write up. I don't mind using FCP brand as long as it's about equal quality as OEM
Hell, BMW OEM control arm bushing is well known to crap out fast. This FCP brand may last longer than OEM
Hell, BMW OEM control arm bushing is well known to crap out fast. This FCP brand may last longer than OEM
07-29-2010, 10:12 AM
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08-15-2010, 07:17 PM
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IMPORTANT NOTE:
the control arm bushing bolts should be tightened when the suspension is loaded.....set the front wheels on ramps for example, then tighten the bolts. otherwise if you tighten the bolts when the arms are all the way down, the rubber bushing in the control arm will be twisted when the car is sitting at its normal height.
the control arm bushing bolts should be tightened when the suspension is loaded.....set the front wheels on ramps for example, then tighten the bolts. otherwise if you tighten the bolts when the arms are all the way down, the rubber bushing in the control arm will be twisted when the car is sitting at its normal height.
08-21-2010, 12:26 PM
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Word of caution doing yours. If you still have the stock struts, you will have to allow a bit more time for this DIY. The reason being because the stock struts are much longer through the collar on the hub, you will NOT have sufficient room to pull out the arm after you get the nut loose. You will need to undo the big 18mm nut/bolt combination behind the collar to drop the hub before the arm can be taken out. I know, it's a bitch but it is what it is.
because of your DIY I found what I am being looking for a while. I followed your instructions and it is pretty easy as you described. What you state above (stock struts) it is true, I do have the stock ones and it takes little bit longer because once the carrier or base for the struts and control arms is loosen up I had to bang on it (pushing it down) to allow the control arm ball joint to come out. Once I took the upper control arm off I found that the ball joint was very loose, the rubber bushing was still okay. I ordered both arms lower and upper since FCP have them on sale now, I checked out the quality too and it looks good to me. 
Few comments on FCP; first one is that the price is good, and the warranty is only for one year not lifetime but for the price can not complain (considering that the stealer sells it for almost 8 times what you pay with them) and second The shipped two right control arms instead of R/L but when I called them today they are going to overnight the correct part on Monday morning (which it speaks good about their customer service), the last thing about them is that when I first bought the parts (on Ebay) I paid the advertised price but the following Monday the parts were on sale; I called them right away when even the parts were not shipped out yet and I asked for refunding back the difference in price and they did!
I have not checked the driving feeling yet until I get the lower driver control arm, but one thing for sure I am not able to twist the upper arms anymore so my expectations are high
One last comment; to avoid having hard time unscrewing the ball joint nuts (as you mentioned and I experienced myself in one side) spray WD40 in the nuts before you start and let it penetrate for a while, trust me it makes the job easier instead of using brute force to get them off.