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Changed the Oil in my 535i Today

Old Feb 5, 2008 | 06:36 AM
  #41  
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1 - I add 6 full quarts and then I leave .2 qt in the 7th bottle...my '08 535i uses 6.8 qt. You will see graduated measurements like .2, .4, .6, etc. on the side of the oil container. This is what I have always done. Also, when you realize that the difference between minimum and maximum oil level is probably about 1 quart...it was on my E34 with a dipstick...your measurements don't have to be THAT precise.

2 - Now a seperate question...I just changed my oil for the first time 5000 miles. I did not see/find a drain plug washer when I removed the plug. 1 - It could have fallen off and gone down the hole in my oil catch container when I pulled the plug. 2- it could have stayed on the engine...I checked that and it wasn't there. 3 - It could have stayed on the plug...it wasn't there either. 4 - It could not have been there in the first place...?? Did you guys find a washer on your drain plug? When I replaced the plug I DID NOT put the washer from the filter kit (I assume the copper washer inside the bag with the 2 o-rings was it) on the plug...I figured maybe the '08 535i doesn't use one; I mean it doesn't have a dipstick, so who can tell what else may be different from conventional. I did NOT overtorque the plug and I do NOT have any leaking...so all seems ok with no washer. The good thing....is that BMW will do the next oil change, so I guess they will put a washer onthere if it is suppose to have one.

3 - Also, does anyone else have the problem of when the oil is draining out of the engine, it comes out with such pressure, that it actually makes slight contact with the undercarriage cover that surrounds the drain plug area...causing a big mess! I might need to trim about 1/2 inch off that covering piece, but I think it's metal just under the cover.

4 - Oh... and lastly...does anyone just leave the drain plug cover (the one using 3 8mm bolts) off? I really don't like it hiding a possible oil leak. As it is...I have to put the plug back in the engine, fill up with oil, TAKE THE CAR OFF THE RAMPS, test drive the car, put the car BACK on the ramps, check for plug leakage, and then put cover back on. if I leave the cover off....I test driev the car, a park it...if there's plug leakage, it will drip and be seen. Thoughts??
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 07:53 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Allen' post='527480' date='Feb 5 2008, 10:36 AM
1) Now a seperate question...I just changed my oil for the first time 5000 miles. I did not see/find a drain plug washer when I removed the plug. 1 - It could have fallen off and gone down the hole in my oil catch container when I pulled the plug. 2- it could have stayed on the engine...I checked that and it wasn't there. 3 - It could have stayed on the plug...it wasn't there either. 4 - It could not have been there in the first place...?? Did you guys find a washer on your drain plug?
No, I did not find one but I did put the washer from the kit on when I replaced the drain plug. No leaks.


3 - Also, does anyone else have the problem of when the oil is draining out of the engine, it comes out with such pressure, that it actually makes slight contact with the undercarriage cover that surrounds the drain plug area...causing a big mess! I might need to trim about 1/2 inch off that covering piece, but I think it's metal just under the cover.
No, I made a mess too but that was because my catch pan mispositioned.

4 - Oh... and lastly...does anyone just leave the drain plug cover (the one using 3 8mm bolts) off? I really don't like it hiding a possible oil leak.
I don't think that's a good enough reason to leave the cover off because, those undercarriage pannels are there to handle the air traveling under the car, as part of the aerodynamics.
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 01:24 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by HotLap' post='526591' date='Feb 3 2008, 11:35 AM
MP - nice write up and thanks - you helped a lot as I'm going to be doing my 1st oil change soon as well. Great to see that only the smaller panel has to be removed and not major underbody parts. Also cool that the drain plug is poionting downwards...will keep the mess to a minimum. Was wondering though about the oil filter/housing tightening procedure...is there a torque number...or is it like most other filters hand tighten then an extra 1/4 - 1/2 turn?

Good work - your write up is now part of my BMW "technical manual"
Great write up Phil. If you look on the left side of the oil filter cover (cap), mine has a green paint line that is on the plastic cover and on the oil filter housing. Just tighten the cap back up until the two realign. Looks like the factory paints that on there and it also serves a visual way to see if the cap has moved. My daughters 08 328i that I bought her has the same marks too.
Bill
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 01:41 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by B767capt' post='527646' date='Feb 5 2008, 05:24 PM
Great write up Phil. If you look on the left side of the oil filter cover (cap), mine has a green paint line that is on the plastic cover and on the oil filter housing. Just tighten the cap back up until the two realign. Looks like the factory paints that on there and it also serves a visual way to see if the cap has moved. My daughters 08 328i that I bought her has the same marks too.
Bill
Thanks, just went & checked it and it was already aligned.
BTW there is a torque number right there on the cap! 25.5Nm.
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 06:58 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by MiamiPhill' post='527652' date='Feb 6 2008, 06:41 AM
Thanks, just went & checked it and it was already aligned.
BTW there is a torque number right there on the cap! 25.5Nm.
does anyone know the tightennig torque on the oil pan plug? I would like to ensure that I do not overtighten it for any reason... thanks..
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 07:09 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by MiamiPhill' post='525095' date='Jan 31 2008, 11:07 AM
Hand tight is good for most filters, but because of that structure the filter is in, (..and I'm not so sure of the pressures) I gave it a very slight extra twist after tightening by hand. Don't over do it though.
BMW oil filter wrench is 86mm a bit special size wise but can be used with any 3/8" torque wrench.
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 07:26 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by desertfox65' post='527774' date='Feb 5 2008, 10:58 PM
does anyone know the tightennig torque on the oil pan plug? I would like to ensure that I do not overtighten it for any reason... thanks..
Are you also working with a 535i? The tightening torques vary between engines.

The following list may help out if you know what the bolt thread type is:

Thread.........Torque
M12x1.5....... 25 Nm
M18x1.5....... 35 Nm
M22x1.5....... 60 Nm

If you don't know the bolt type, then let me know either the engine code, the model and year of the car, or the last 7 digits of the VIN...
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 05:50 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Rudy' post='527778' date='Feb 6 2008, 12:26 PM
Are you also working with a 535i? The tightening torques vary between engines.

The following list may help out if you know what the bolt thread type is:

Thread.........Torque
M12x1.5....... 25 Nm
M18x1.5....... 35 Nm
M22x1.5....... 60 Nm

If you don't know the bolt type, then let me know either the engine code, the model and year of the car, or the last 7 digits of the VIN...
Thanks I checked the site http://bmwfans.info the part number seems to be 11 13 7 535 106 which is common accross the range and specified as M12x16. From looks of it it seems to be 25NM as well

the model is 523i LCI version production July 2007 Right hand drive ECE version automatic six speed. Would appreciate your confirmation.
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 06:18 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by desertfox65' post='527905' date='Feb 6 2008, 09:50 AM
Thanks I checked the site http://bmwfans.info the part number seems to be 11 13 7 535 106 which is common accross the range and specified as M12x16. From looks of it it seems to be 25NM as well

the model is 523i LCI version production July 2007 Right hand drive ECE version automatic six speed. Would appreciate your confirmation.
For a 523i with the N53 engine, the thread is indeed a 12x1.5 so yes, 25Nm of torque is required...
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 08:29 AM
  #50  
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You did an excellent step by step instruction, now I can't wait to see your future DIY's specially on ATF which I plan to replace at 60K.


[quote name='MiamiPhill' date='Jan 22 2008, 08:23 PM' post='521604']
So 7,160 miles just ticked over on the odometer of our 08 535i, and since we intend to keep the car a long while I felt a mid interval oil change was in order. (BMW does one every 15,000 mls. under their 'free' maintainance plan.) I called my local SA and was told $110+tax which was fine with me, the only issue was finding the time to bring it in. But last week I came accross a post from member B767capt who did an oil change on his 535i, so I PM'ed him to inquire about the process, as I had done oil changes on all my other cars and felt up to the challenge. He told me it was easy so today I decided to do it, and share the knowledge with the forum.
Edit: Oil Filter =$11.08
7Qts Oil =$40.53
Tax=$3.10
Total=$54.71
Not paying the dealership $62 to sit & wait for 2hrs.......priceless.
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