Changed the Oil in my 535i Today
04-05-2009, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by MiamiPhill' post='836980' date='Apr 5 2009, 12:00 PM
Hard to tell from the angle of the pic. but this does not look the engine drain plug. 
04-08-2009, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by MiamiPhill' post='521604' date='Jan 22 2008, 10:23 PM
So 7,160 miles just ticked over on the odometer of our 08 535i, and since we intend to keep the car a long while I felt a mid interval oil change was in order. (BMW does one every 15,000 mls. under their 'free' maintainance plan.) I called my local SA and was told $110+tax which was fine with me, the only issue was finding the time to bring it in. But last week I came accross a post from member B767capt who did an oil change on his 535i, so I PM'ed him to inquire about the process, as I had done oil changes on all my other cars and felt up to the challenge. He told me it was easy so today I decided to do it, and share the knowledge with the forum.
Oil Filter =$11.08
7Qts BMW Oil =$40.53
Tax=$3.10
Total=$54.71
Not paying the dealership $62 to sit & wait for 2hrs.......priceless.
Tools & Part
1) Phillips head screwdriver
2) 8mm scoket & driver
3) 17mm wrench
4) Filter pulling tool
5) BMW Oil Filter
6) O-rings (included with filter)
7) Synthetic SAE 5w30 BMW oil (7 quarts)
8) Car jack
9) Wheel Block
10) Oil catch pan
11) Funnel
Attachment 43372 Attachment 43373
The Process
1) Park the car on a level surface, start the engine and let it idle for 5 min. if car is cold, or cool down if hot.
2) Make sure the park brake is applied (manual trans. also engage 1st gear).
3) Wedge wheel block at the rear passenger side wheel.
Attachment 43359
4) Jack the car up on the front driver side. (best for good oil drainage)
5) Place jack stand under car (if you have one) for added safety.
6) Locate the small trianglar pannel in the (second from the front) air management undertray.
Attachment 43360
7) Using the 8mm socket, unscrew the 3 hex screws and remove the pannel, exposing the drain plug.
Attachment 43362
Attachment 43363
Attachment 43364
8) Place oil catch pan on old news papers (in case you missplace said oil pan like I did ) under drain plug and remove it with the closed end of the 17mm wrench.
9) Locate oil filter cap, round black plastic, top right of engine forward of air box.
Attachment 43365
10) Place paper towel or rag around filter cap to contain any spills while removing the oil filter.
Attachment 43366
11) Using filter wrench, unscrew the filter cap/holder, remove the old filter & O-rings then clean out the cap.
12) Locate the 2 new O-rings (supplied with new filter) & place them on the cap,
Attachment 43367
Attachment 43368
Attachment 43369
......then place the new filter in the cap.
Attachment 43370
13) Apply a thin film of oil to the O-rings then screw the filter cap back in place, thighten. (Note, you should be able the screw the cap all the way down by hand, if not it could be cross threaded & will leak. Undo cap the all the way off then screw it on again.)
14) Replace & tighten the drain plug, taking care not to cross thread as above.
15) Add new oil.
Attachment 43371
16) Replace the small panel (from #6), let the car off the jack.
17) Start the car & check for oil leaks (both at the filter & underneath at the drain plug.)
18) You are done!!
Please be responsible and dispose of the used oil in the proper way, (most auto parts stores will take & recycle your used motor oil) never throw it away in the trash.
I hope this helps....good look.
Oil Filter =$11.08
7Qts BMW Oil =$40.53
Tax=$3.10
Total=$54.71
Not paying the dealership $62 to sit & wait for 2hrs.......priceless.
Tools & Part
1) Phillips head screwdriver
2) 8mm scoket & driver
3) 17mm wrench
4) Filter pulling tool
5) BMW Oil Filter
6) O-rings (included with filter)
7) Synthetic SAE 5w30 BMW oil (7 quarts)
8) Car jack
9) Wheel Block
10) Oil catch pan
11) Funnel
Attachment 43372 Attachment 43373
The Process
1) Park the car on a level surface, start the engine and let it idle for 5 min. if car is cold, or cool down if hot.
2) Make sure the park brake is applied (manual trans. also engage 1st gear).
3) Wedge wheel block at the rear passenger side wheel.
Attachment 43359
4) Jack the car up on the front driver side. (best for good oil drainage)
5) Place jack stand under car (if you have one) for added safety.
6) Locate the small trianglar pannel in the (second from the front) air management undertray.
Attachment 43360
7) Using the 8mm socket, unscrew the 3 hex screws and remove the pannel, exposing the drain plug.
Attachment 43362
Attachment 43363
Attachment 43364
8) Place oil catch pan on old news papers (in case you missplace said oil pan like I did
) under drain plug and remove it with the closed end of the 17mm wrench.9) Locate oil filter cap, round black plastic, top right of engine forward of air box.
Attachment 43365
10) Place paper towel or rag around filter cap to contain any spills while removing the oil filter.
Attachment 43366
11) Using filter wrench, unscrew the filter cap/holder, remove the old filter & O-rings then clean out the cap.
12) Locate the 2 new O-rings (supplied with new filter) & place them on the cap,
Attachment 43367
Attachment 43368
Attachment 43369
......then place the new filter in the cap.
Attachment 43370
13) Apply a thin film of oil to the O-rings then screw the filter cap back in place, thighten. (Note, you should be able the screw the cap all the way down by hand, if not it could be cross threaded & will leak. Undo cap the all the way off then screw it on again.)
14) Replace & tighten the drain plug, taking care not to cross thread as above.
15) Add new oil.
Attachment 43371
16) Replace the small panel (from #6), let the car off the jack.
17) Start the car & check for oil leaks (both at the filter & underneath at the drain plug.)
18) You are done!!
Please be responsible and dispose of the used oil in the proper way, (most auto parts stores will take & recycle your used motor oil) never throw it away in the trash.
I hope this helps....good look.
04-14-2009, 11:14 AM
#103
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Just changed my oil today. The photos and directions were a great help. I didn't have any trouble removing the panel as it was missing. Also no washer on plug which by the way was the offset version. Vehicle was service by BMW Since it was new (I have all service records) I was surprised by the missing items and the condition of the oil after only 7,000 miles. Black and gunky thick. Yah think some lazy tech just reset the Idrive w/o doing the work? 
05-11-2009, 04:41 AM
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This thread is fantastic - I followed it and the useful pixx today and it was great. I was successful on my 2004 530i although it took me a bit over an hour b/c: 1) it was the first time I had done any maintenance work since I've just come off the 4 yrs of service so I was learning where everything is under the hood; 2) it takes a lot longer to drain and fill 7 quarts vs. 4 for typical engines; 3) clean-up.
A few comments:
A. The access panel to get to the drain bolt was different than that shown. Instead of 3 bolts, I had a single Phillips head screw to loosen and then the panel openned up by two hinges that were fixed in place.
B. My drain faced horizontally and not vertically. When I first looked at it, I thought the oil would squirt laterally make a mess, but it flowed without problem through the panel openning.
C. I bought a replacement filter from BMW, but it came with the large O-ring that fits on the oil filter housing cap and a copper crush washer for the drain plug. In contrast the the supplied pixx on this posting, it did not come with two smaller O-rings that fit in the spindle of the oil filter cap. Is that a problem??
D. I had 7 quarts of oil ready, but needed only to add 6 quarts according to the dipstick. I did let the oil drain for nearly 40 min. so it's not like I short-changed the draining of the old oil.
E. After adding the new oil and checking the dipstick, the oil still looked dirty (darker brown). This is unlike my Honda Accord where the dipstick shows very clean new oil (golden) after the new oil is added.
Still, very glad to do this
. Not only did I save $$, but I got to know my car more than I had over my first 4 years. Thanks.
A few comments:
A. The access panel to get to the drain bolt was different than that shown. Instead of 3 bolts, I had a single Phillips head screw to loosen and then the panel openned up by two hinges that were fixed in place.
B. My drain faced horizontally and not vertically. When I first looked at it, I thought the oil would squirt laterally make a mess, but it flowed without problem through the panel openning.
C. I bought a replacement filter from BMW, but it came with the large O-ring that fits on the oil filter housing cap and a copper crush washer for the drain plug. In contrast the the supplied pixx on this posting, it did not come with two smaller O-rings that fit in the spindle of the oil filter cap. Is that a problem??
D. I had 7 quarts of oil ready, but needed only to add 6 quarts according to the dipstick. I did let the oil drain for nearly 40 min. so it's not like I short-changed the draining of the old oil.
E. After adding the new oil and checking the dipstick, the oil still looked dirty (darker brown). This is unlike my Honda Accord where the dipstick shows very clean new oil (golden) after the new oil is added.
Still, very glad to do this
. Not only did I save $$, but I got to know my car more than I had over my first 4 years. Thanks.
05-11-2009, 05:48 AM
#105
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My Ride: 2008 535i w/ Sports & Permium Pkg. Silv/Blk
2008 VW R32 w/Nav.
1992 VW Corrado Silv/Blk-retired
2001 530i Sports/Premium-retired
Originally Posted by hope330ih' post='874874' date='May 11 2009, 08:41 AM
A few comments:
A. The access panel to get to the drain bolt was different than that shown. Instead of 3 bolts, I had a single Phillips head screw to loosen and then the panel openned up by two hinges that were fixed in place.
B. My drain faced horizontally and not vertically. When I first looked at it, I thought the oil would squirt laterally make a mess, but it flowed without problem through the panel openning.
C. I bought a replacement filter from BMW, but it came with the large O-ring that fits on the oil filter housing cap and a copper crush washer for the drain plug. In contrast the the supplied pixx on this posting, it did not come with two smaller O-rings that fit in the spindle of the oil filter cap. Is that a problem??
D. I had 7 quarts of oil ready, but needed only to add 6 quarts according to the dipstick. I did let the oil drain for nearly 40 min. so it's not like I short-changed the draining of the old oil.
E. After adding the new oil and checking the dipstick, the oil still looked dirty (darker brown). This is unlike my Honda Accord where the dipstick shows very clean new oil (golden) after the new oil is added.
Still, very glad to do this . Not only did I save $$, but I got to know my car more than I had over my first 4 years. Thanks.
A. The access panel to get to the drain bolt was different than that shown. Instead of 3 bolts, I had a single Phillips head screw to loosen and then the panel openned up by two hinges that were fixed in place.
B. My drain faced horizontally and not vertically. When I first looked at it, I thought the oil would squirt laterally make a mess, but it flowed without problem through the panel openning.
C. I bought a replacement filter from BMW, but it came with the large O-ring that fits on the oil filter housing cap and a copper crush washer for the drain plug. In contrast the the supplied pixx on this posting, it did not come with two smaller O-rings that fit in the spindle of the oil filter cap. Is that a problem??
D. I had 7 quarts of oil ready, but needed only to add 6 quarts according to the dipstick. I did let the oil drain for nearly 40 min. so it's not like I short-changed the draining of the old oil.
E. After adding the new oil and checking the dipstick, the oil still looked dirty (darker brown). This is unlike my Honda Accord where the dipstick shows very clean new oil (golden) after the new oil is added.
Still, very glad to do this
. Not only did I save $$, but I got to know my car more than I had over my first 4 years. Thanks.C. It should be fine.
D. The position of the car may not have been ideal to allow maximum drainage.
E. This is as a result of D.
Great that found it useful.
05-16-2009, 08:14 AM
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My Ride: BMW 535xi
Model Year: 2008
With 6,000 miles on my 08 535 I called the dealer to see if I could get an early "mid-stream" oil change under warranty. He said no but if I waited till next month (June) when I bring it in for its 1 years maintenance, he would perform a "courtesy early" oil change at no charge.
When I took my wife's 08 X3 in for its 1 year maintenance, the dealership changed the oil, without asking or telling me anything, and it show up on the invoice "FREE -Customer requested courtesy early oil change". We did not request it and never mentioned it.
I suspect there is some unwritten change in policy by BMW causing the free early courtesy oil change.
When I took my wife's 08 X3 in for its 1 year maintenance, the dealership changed the oil, without asking or telling me anything, and it show up on the invoice "FREE -Customer requested courtesy early oil change". We did not request it and never mentioned it.
I suspect there is some unwritten change in policy by BMW causing the free early courtesy oil change.
07-29-2009, 12:55 PM
#108
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My Ride: 2008 535i w/ Sports & Permium Pkg. Silv/Blk
2008 VW R32 w/Nav.
1992 VW Corrado Silv/Blk-retired
2001 530i Sports/Premium-retired
Well it's 22,202mls and time for another mid-service oil change which I did today. Oil & filter cost has gone up ~$10, $6.50/Q for the oil (BMW HP syn.) & $15.86 for filter, a total of $65.04/w tax.
Same procedure as before except the filter cap was a bitch to get off, I think the BMW tech went way past the 25nm recommended to tighten the cap when the car was in for the scheduled service @ 15K miles....very frustrating
but I was even more pissed off to find the drain plug panel missing 
....looks like they forgot to refit it WTF......I'm calling the SA right now, I want my panel back. 
Same procedure as before except the filter cap was a bitch to get off, I think the BMW tech went way past the 25nm recommended to tighten the cap when the car was in for the scheduled service @ 15K miles....very frustrating
but I was even more pissed off to find the drain plug panel missing ....looks like they forgot to refit it WTF......I'm calling the SA right now, I want my panel back.
07-29-2009, 08:37 PM
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My Ride: I have an 05 545i. It's a manual with a few options. This is my first BMW but I don't know how I'll ever be able to switch to something else.
I would call! There's no excuse except plain laziness for not putting it back on. The mechanic probably thought you would never notice, blah blah blah, I hate dealership mechanics. I think i've yet to find one that is actually competent at what they do.
11-02-2009, 01:00 PM
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My Ride: 2004 530isport packagepremium packageactive steeringxenon hids20mm H&R spacers in the rear6 spd51kpurchase price , 32k back in 2006
Model Year: 2004 530i
nice write up!
how can you reset the oil service due indicator on the idrive?
The dealer wants to charge me 75 bucks for the standard scope . I guess the standard scope is to reset all the things needed to be done for service , is there anyway to do this on your own?
thanks
how can you reset the oil service due indicator on the idrive?
The dealer wants to charge me 75 bucks for the standard scope . I guess the standard scope is to reset all the things needed to be done for service , is there anyway to do this on your own?
thanks