alternator replacement 545i
#21
New Members
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 477
Likes: 12
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
My Ride: 2004 545i+BT+AUX+Coding
Model Year: 2004
Engine: N62
THANKS for the attempt to help but it was nothing like that, initially feeling around I actually felt it might and tried to lift that little wire but after I god a view turned out was not even like that at all, just a plastic retainer on a 90 degree connector. Thanks to some anal mechanic that installed the previous alternator for ty-wrapping the signal wire several times around the power steering hose (every inch) and me finally figuring out which ones to cut to get some forward movement.
See the "Connector pic" for some partial view of the connector in the URH corner of the pic.
Never want to do this again I'll gladly pay the $600 ...!!!
I should add that re-installing was a real challenge as the fit of the bottom "U" mount was very tight and it took two of us to get it in position.
See the "Connector pic" for some partial view of the connector in the URH corner of the pic.
Never want to do this again I'll gladly pay the $600 ...!!!
I should add that re-installing was a real challenge as the fit of the bottom "U" mount was very tight and it took two of us to get it in position.
Last edited by cmyachtie; 07-05-2013 at 11:20 AM.
#22
New Members
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 477
Likes: 12
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
My Ride: 2004 545i+BT+AUX+Coding
Model Year: 2004
Engine: N62
Now...here comes the punch line.......hooked the car up to INPA to monitor the battery charge and before this job felt had unreliable high voltage spikes >14.8 volts which can damage the AGM battery and now she is at 12.23 volts when engine running which means she is NOT charging at all so something is now really f#$$$##D
Two days later after taking an hiatus from this, got the alternator out and took off the back and pulled the regulator and can now call me stupid as the brushes did not engage, even pushed and tried to remove it so ensure the brushes came out felt resistance so assumed all was done.
AH AH not so so now they are and this baby is going back in the engine compartment today.
UPDATE.....Now having a more robust charge voltage steady at 14.02 to 14.5 something like that and none of those wide fluctuations hope that helps the "Rolling computer" behave like it should.....
Two days later after taking an hiatus from this, got the alternator out and took off the back and pulled the regulator and can now call me stupid as the brushes did not engage, even pushed and tried to remove it so ensure the brushes came out felt resistance so assumed all was done.
AH AH not so so now they are and this baby is going back in the engine compartment today.
UPDATE.....Now having a more robust charge voltage steady at 14.02 to 14.5 something like that and none of those wide fluctuations hope that helps the "Rolling computer" behave like it should.....
Last edited by cmyachtie; 07-08-2013 at 01:10 PM.
#24
New Members
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 477
Likes: 12
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
My Ride: 2004 545i+BT+AUX+Coding
Model Year: 2004
Engine: N62
Actually that signal wire connector is just one single very thin wire, thanks for good wishes though,
Last edited by cmyachtie; 07-08-2013 at 01:38 PM.
#25
New Members
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 477
Likes: 12
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
My Ride: 2004 545i+BT+AUX+Coding
Model Year: 2004
Engine: N62
Decided since I am now an EAR....(Experienced Alternator Replacer)......LOL
to post my hints on making this job a bit easier for those attempting it.
Couple of things worth mentioning:
1) Cut a piece of wood like a piece of a broomstick about 12 inched long , will come in handy if you ,like me, have to pound it in place as the "U" mount is an extremely tight fit and the alternator has a tendency to twist and bind itself.
2) Remove that small intake of the airfilter near the headlight as you will find you need that space to bend back the tab of the fan cowling assembly.
3) Remove the signal wire from the wire guide in front of the cam cover to give you more length when pulling the alternator out so you can disconnect the signal wire connector easier.
4) Duct tape, like Google is your friend, and tape that overflow tube on top of the radiator so it stays out of your way.
I made a pdf with pics but seem to be unable to upload today also tried pics here but to no avail today...will try later and see if I can add some illustrations.
to post my hints on making this job a bit easier for those attempting it.
Couple of things worth mentioning:
1) Cut a piece of wood like a piece of a broomstick about 12 inched long , will come in handy if you ,like me, have to pound it in place as the "U" mount is an extremely tight fit and the alternator has a tendency to twist and bind itself.
2) Remove that small intake of the airfilter near the headlight as you will find you need that space to bend back the tab of the fan cowling assembly.
3) Remove the signal wire from the wire guide in front of the cam cover to give you more length when pulling the alternator out so you can disconnect the signal wire connector easier.
4) Duct tape, like Google is your friend, and tape that overflow tube on top of the radiator so it stays out of your way.
I made a pdf with pics but seem to be unable to upload today also tried pics here but to no avail today...will try later and see if I can add some illustrations.
Last edited by cmyachtie; 07-08-2013 at 02:07 PM.
#27
New Members
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 477
Likes: 12
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
My Ride: 2004 545i+BT+AUX+Coding
Model Year: 2004
Engine: N62
around $200 complete, or if you just have an electrical issue and bearings are OK the just get the regulator for around $50-70. easy and cheap fix. The only things really that go on any alternator are the bearings (mechanical) or the regulator.
Last edited by cmyachtie; 07-15-2013 at 06:26 AM.
#28
I'm 99+% sure a new regulator would have fixed mine--I just didn't want to take the risk of having to pull it twice (plus charging my battery every night then hooking a jumper box up to the car in order to drive to work wasn't something I want to have to repeat.. lol)
#29
New Members
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Sarasota, FL
My Ride: 08' 550i 6spd manual M-Sport & 07' M5
What are signs that your alternator or regulator or battery is going out?
In the last couple weeks, occasionally when I start the car, the time has reset to 00:00, which also clears the MPG on the display. There are no other symptoms, I set the time, and it's fine for a few days, then randomly it will be reset again.
A couple days ago I turned off the car and listened to the radio for about a minute or two before pulling out the key fob, and I saw a "battery voltage low" message on the idrive screen so I pulled the fob. I'm hoping it could just be the battery, but if it's not charging....
I still need to check the voltage this weekend to see what the battery or alternator say.
In the last couple weeks, occasionally when I start the car, the time has reset to 00:00, which also clears the MPG on the display. There are no other symptoms, I set the time, and it's fine for a few days, then randomly it will be reset again.
A couple days ago I turned off the car and listened to the radio for about a minute or two before pulling out the key fob, and I saw a "battery voltage low" message on the idrive screen so I pulled the fob. I'm hoping it could just be the battery, but if it's not charging....
I still need to check the voltage this weekend to see what the battery or alternator say.
#30
New Members
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 477
Likes: 12
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
My Ride: 2004 545i+BT+AUX+Coding
Model Year: 2004
Engine: N62
What are signs that your alternator or regulator or battery is going out?
In the last couple weeks, occasionally when I start the car, the time has reset to 00:00, which also clears the MPG on the display. There are no other symptoms, I set the time, and it's fine for a few days, then randomly it will be reset again.
A couple days ago I turned off the car and listened to the radio for about a minute or two before pulling out the key fob, and I saw a "battery voltage low" message on the idrive screen so I pulled the fob. I'm hoping it could just be the battery, but if it's not charging....
I still need to check the voltage this weekend to see what the battery or alternator say.
In the last couple weeks, occasionally when I start the car, the time has reset to 00:00, which also clears the MPG on the display. There are no other symptoms, I set the time, and it's fine for a few days, then randomly it will be reset again.
A couple days ago I turned off the car and listened to the radio for about a minute or two before pulling out the key fob, and I saw a "battery voltage low" message on the idrive screen so I pulled the fob. I'm hoping it could just be the battery, but if it's not charging....
I still need to check the voltage this weekend to see what the battery or alternator say.
First culprit to check would be the battery based on your symptoms I'd say, if that is good than look for the next item in line some power issue for sure is what you likely have.