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The same concepts apply to the following cars:
E90, E64, E92, E65, E60, E39 M5 and most BMWs after 2003 except E46s

REQUIRED PARTS - Provided with Kit
2 H3 Bulbs (any Kelvin)
2 Ignitors (Prolumen)
2 Ballasts (Prolumen)
2 H3 Adapter Plugs (Included)
2 Resistors (50W 60hm)
1 Complete Relay/Wiring Harness for HID system
1 Set of Zip Ties

REQUIRED TOOLS
Box Cutter/Knife
3/4" Drill Bit
Philips Screw Driver
Socket Set
Cordless Drill
2 Metal Self-Tapping Screws
Needle Nose Pliers
Electrical or Covering Tape for cleaner install
Extending Magnet (for the nut you WILL drop )

Install Procedures
1) Remove cover to gain access to fog lights


2) Unscrew fog light and remove fog light

fog light removed


3) Remove back cap - note locations of positive lead and negative post.


4) Remove existing H3 bulb, do not damage contact guides for the H3 bulb.
Insert the new H3 HID bulb (there is a squared edge and a rounded edge).
Use needle nose pliers to squeeze the two prongs (rounded and squared) onto the base of the H3 HID bulb to secuire HID bulb into base.

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5) The HID bulb leads and Adapter Leads
Find the removed back HID Fog cap. Drill a 3/4" hole (size of the rubber grommet on the HID bulb wires) through the cap. Be careful, do not damage the positive lead and negative post.

Push the adapter leads through the grommets existing holes (these holes may need to be enlarged slightly using a blade/knife/box cutter).

There is no modification involved with the back cap nor the OEM plug. they will plug in normally as before.




6) At this point, you can test and you are finished with the fog light installation and it will look something like this:



However, you will receive an error message on the dash/iDrive claiming there is a fog light error and you will receive occassional flickering perpetuated by the LCM throwing occassional pulses to check if the fogs are operative. The next few steps will guide you to finish the installation with no adverse affects to either your car, the fog lights, or any electrical components.

--- COMPLIMENTARY WIRING TO ELIMINATE ERROR CODES and/or FLICKER ---
At this point, you have varying options:
- for the E65, headlights must be removed to do this properly.
- for the E64, it's not required, though helpful
- for the other cars, it's not required and doesn't change the aspect of the install.
- in all cases, it's wise to remove the wheel or turn them all the way to one side to gain easier access to the fender wall/liner area just behind the headlights.

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7) Remove the 7 Series Headlights. We do not want to go into too much depth here because we don't want you to damage your car, so if you aren't comfortable, you need to ask someone that is. But basically:

a) Unscrew fender liner bolt located just behind the seam of the bumper and the fender. It's a 10mm bolt.

Also, there is a push out pin located at the vey bottom of the bumper as well that needs to be removed.
Remove bolts #34 and #22 and pins located near #28/29/21


b) PUSH THE BUMPER SKIN FORWARD, do not attempt to pull it out towards the outside of the car's side, only PUSH it forward, that's how it's designed to release from the holders. Here's an example picture (more specific photos will be available as soon as we can get them).

located at #25


Once these parts are done, do not remove the headlights yet.

c) Unscrew the headlight
remove screws located at #5/#6

remove screws located at #1


8) On the 7 series, the positive battery post, has a little "trap door" just under the post itself. Simply remove the cap (it's clipped in place) to reveal the nut (13mm). Once the nut is removed (don't lose it), place the positive lead from the ballast onto the protruding positive terminal bolt and secure back down TIGHTLY with the nut.



At this point, decide exactly where your wire will be running and dremel or shave or snip a little opening in the cover that you just removed so you can safely - without pinching the positive wire - re-insert the cap.

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9) Now you have the harness positive post installed, you will need to find the part of your car where the negative lead will be inserted. For example see picture below. It must be non-painted, ground. Also, find a safe location to mount the relay (it's not heat senstive, but somewhere using an existing bolt/nut will be fine.




10) You now have 3 leads that are remaining. 2 leads will have a 9006 mail plug on the ends of them. These plugs will go directly into the HID ballast plugs (RED if Prolumen) or directly into the ballast (if non-Prolumen).



If a plug needs to be extended due to the length of the 7 series, you can use 16g wire to extend the leads.

The final lead is a two pronged trigger wire. This trigger wire is important, because it has to be crimped onto the fog light wires (just like the resistor's wires as well). You can combine those two triggers together if you want to only make a single splice into the main wiring plugs

We are still gathering photos for this, but here are a couple from an E90:


11) Now that the headlights are removed, you have access directly onto the two metal posts that hold the horns. Using 2 sheetmetal screws attach the 2 resistors to these posts and run the wires from the resistors over to the positive/negative wires of the fog lights.

These resistors get very hot, so mounting them on a metal surface is the only way to go.




12) Crimp wires of the resistors (parallel) onto the fog light wires.




13) You are finished, it's over. And you get this:
no error messages

6000K HID Fogs, 6000K Low Beams, Predator ICE 6000K


Applicable to the E60 as well.

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One more note on this, they can come in 6000K, 5000K, 3000K, you name it, the work is the same regardless and the headlight removal on the E60 is a piece of cake compared to the 7 series.

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Now I know why you call yourself "umnitza"!!

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