ObD

The difference between my E46 330i and E90 330i was night and day. (225 HP vs 255 HP) About 0.5 sec quicker spec wise. The 535i kills them both in low end torque.

Slowhand11404

I had a 2009 528xi loaner the last time my 2008 535xi was in the shop and it had considerably less accelleration than the 535xi. Handling seemed about the same, and on the highway the 528xi moved along OK, but it seemed slow off the line.

panaguy

one4thethumb,

I don't think you are crazy. I have an '07 530xi and wrote about this very same subject plus my observation that the newer LCI versions of the 5 series (2008 and newer) are MUCH NOISIER on the road (interior noise) than 2004 - 2007 5 series. Why? Because BMW apparently for cost reduction on these newer cars uses less sound deadening material and/or cheaper glass (non- laminated) for doors and rear. This noise issue alone makes the car sound like some pedestrian Chrysler while driving and the single reason why I will NOT buy a 2008 or newer E60. :thumbsdown:

BTW, regarding the "valve bleed" being done on your engine, I've had this bleed done TWICE and it did NOT clear up the valve ticking problem where your 530xi sounds like an old Chevy pick up truck. BMW actually replaced the entire top head assembly on my engine and that finally took away the problem. Apparently the new replacement head BMW sent from Germany is now modified with a new "bleed down valve" to ELIMINATE the issue of valve ticking. It seems the original design of the head on the N52 engine our cars use have restrictive oil channels. Also when the car is sitting for a few hours the oil drains down to the crank case (duh -gravity) which is normal . When you restart the car oil couldn't get back up in the head fast enough which produces metal to metal contact which is valve train noise or "ticking" (and WEAR). The new redesigned head they put on my car has that bleed down valve to retain oil in the head (sounds good to me). That "valve bleed" procedure the dealers perform supposedly clears out the oil circulation channels but is not always succesful. As far as I am concerned once valve ticking starts the damage to the engine is already done and it will only get worse.

Since it didn't work on my car and to insure the long term integrity of my engine and car (obviously my engine head and valve train was damaged- you don't have to be a genius to figure out "no oil = no good"), I insisted that BMW replace the head which they did with a completely assmbled bolt on head they flew in from Germany with that new bleed down valve change and I am sure modifications to the oil circulation channels as well.

Bottom line the engine now runs great and my complete long term confidence has been restored in my car. Here is my original post on this subject late last year;

530xi Engine Valve Ticking Posting


My $.02 worth; I hope this helps

one4thethumb

panaguy:

Thanks so much for your experiences re: the valve bleed. Funny that you reference the sound of an old Chevy pick-up, I likened the tapping to the sound to my 1980 Chevy Citation (bought new while in college) after 150,000 miles on the clock.

My SA was very up front and told me that the valve bleed resolves the problem only 60-65% of the time, and should it return they will replace the head. He told me that at the moment there are a half dozen E60 customers ahead of me who have already gone through the valve bleed awaiting head replacement. None of the replacement heads are in stock and are on "back-order."

Was your valve tap constant or intermittent? Mine occurred only in the morning (after the car sat in my garage overnight) following my drive to the health club, and ONLY if ambient air temperatures were under 20 degrees F. Over the last 3 days, it has been much warmer in the mornings, and while I've had a keen ear out for the tap, it hasn't materialized.

Memo to all: panaguy's response is the very reason why this forum is so valuable to me, and I've been here only a little more than a month.

panaguy

one4the thumb,

My valve tap was more random. It would happen on startup whether it was a warm day or a cold day. It would sometimes go away after a few miles and other times tap away the whole time I am driving it. It was very annoying (and worrisome). Actually it got worse over time happening more frequently but always at random on startup.

If I were you, I would continue to complain about the tapping even AFTER they do the valve bleed. For 2 reasons:

1)Remember the new head is a REDESIGN with a bleed down valve to keep oil in the head specifically as a countermeasure to keep some oil in the head after engine shut down to prevent "dry" starting the next time and consequently setting conditions right for "valve tapping" (and damage).

2) I would believe the oil circulation channels are also redesigned to promote better engine oil flow throughout the heads and not allow them to clog. The valve bleed procedure you refer to actually blows out what are probably clogs in the more restrictive oil channels in the original head design a stopgap measure, so why deal with it again in the future if the valve bleed is successful for you.

Get on the list and get a new head. It's a bolt on complete head, already calibrated and adjusted from the factory and a fairly straighforward job for a competent BMW mechanic and only takes a day or so (and I'm sure your dealer will give you a loner?).

Best of luck