Factory Amp Wattage
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Does anyone know what the factory amp puts out for wattage to the under the seat factory subs. Also does anyone have some insight to how much power to run to them with a aftermarket amp? Any help on this is much appreciated.
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I know Logic7 amp can put 70W per sub.
I wouldn't bother to run the OEM subs with an aftermarket amp. I would add another sub in trunk or replace the underseat subs.
- Antti -
I wouldn't bother to run the OEM subs with an aftermarket amp. I would add another sub in trunk or replace the underseat subs.
- Antti -
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I really don't know. I just checked the Wiring Diagram System and it doesn't tell the hifi amplifier specs, only pro hifi amplifier (Logic7). I could guess it's the same power with a hifi amplfier
.
Here's a copy-paste:
Audio amplifier
The sound reproduction is optimised by the 2 types of amplifier:
* Stereo/HiFi amplifier and
* Top HiFi amplifier.
They are fitted according to the desired type and number of speakers:
The active frequency gates transmit to the amplifier module concerned only that frequency range that can be effectively reproduced by the connected speaker system. The speakers (high, mid and low-range speakers) are connected to those output stages.
Brief description of components
Stereo/HiFi amplifier
HiFi amplifiers are amplifiers with active frequency gates. Active frequency gates achieve better acoustic results than passive frequency gates.
The HiFi amplifier does not have speed-dependent volume adjustment or speed-dependent equalising. The function of the HiFi amplifier is only to amplify the low-frequency output. The HiFi amplifier is a non-diagnosable control unit.
Top HiFi Amplifier
Top HiFi amplifiers are amplifiers with active frequency gates. Active frequency gates achieve better acoustic results than passive frequency gates.
The Top HiFi amplifier is a control unit on the MOST network which has following functions:
* High and mid-range output stages, 4 x 40 Watt
* Subwoofer output stages, 2 x 70 Watt (2-channel subwoofer amplifier)
* Vehicle-specific equalizing
* Speed-dependent equalizing
* Volume-dependent equalizing
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Here's a copy-paste:
Audio amplifier
The sound reproduction is optimised by the 2 types of amplifier:
* Stereo/HiFi amplifier and
* Top HiFi amplifier.
They are fitted according to the desired type and number of speakers:
The active frequency gates transmit to the amplifier module concerned only that frequency range that can be effectively reproduced by the connected speaker system. The speakers (high, mid and low-range speakers) are connected to those output stages.
Brief description of components
Stereo/HiFi amplifier
HiFi amplifiers are amplifiers with active frequency gates. Active frequency gates achieve better acoustic results than passive frequency gates.
The HiFi amplifier does not have speed-dependent volume adjustment or speed-dependent equalising. The function of the HiFi amplifier is only to amplify the low-frequency output. The HiFi amplifier is a non-diagnosable control unit.
Top HiFi Amplifier
Top HiFi amplifiers are amplifiers with active frequency gates. Active frequency gates achieve better acoustic results than passive frequency gates.
The Top HiFi amplifier is a control unit on the MOST network which has following functions:
* High and mid-range output stages, 4 x 40 Watt
* Subwoofer output stages, 2 x 70 Watt (2-channel subwoofer amplifier)
* Vehicle-specific equalizing
* Speed-dependent equalizing
* Volume-dependent equalizing
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I would guess that it is most likely the same. Thanks for the info thats a handy system diagram you got there!
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BMW Wiring Diagram System
I think the diagram doesn't fully work on my computer due to some software things, but it helps a lot when looking for text info!
- Antti -
I think the diagram doesn't fully work on my computer due to some software things, but it helps a lot when looking for text info!
- Antti -
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don't know the factory amp output, but it ain't much.
check this out, its what i did to deal with the issue. i used earthquake subs and an arc audio mini in the factory location without cutting any factory wires.
check out the amp guts pic, and how it compares to the arc mini.
i laughed out loud when i took it apart!
https://5series.net/forums/topic/110...m-sub-upgrade/
check this out, its what i did to deal with the issue. i used earthquake subs and an arc audio mini in the factory location without cutting any factory wires.
check out the amp guts pic, and how it compares to the arc mini.
i laughed out loud when i took it apart!
https://5series.net/forums/topic/110...m-sub-upgrade/
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EXT: 20% Tint All Round | M-Front (Weezy) | Black/White Roundels | Shadowline Paint Match Grilles | M Style Sidemarkers | Vertini Riviera-S 20s
INT: I POD Intg | Trim Rings | ACS Pedals | Cobra XRS 10G
LHT: Xenon Adaptive | XENESIS Fogs| WeissLicht Plate LEDS | Door LEDS I Interior Xenon Pkg
PER: RPI Induction (Weezy) | BMC Filter | Sprint Booster V2
AUD: JL Audio
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don't know the factory amp output, but it ain't much.
check this out, its what i did to deal with the issue. i used earthquake subs and an arc audio mini in the factory location without cutting any factory wires.
check out the amp guts pic, and how it compares to the arc mini.
i laughed out loud when i took it apart!
https://5series.net/forums/topic/110...m-sub-upgrade/
check this out, its what i did to deal with the issue. i used earthquake subs and an arc audio mini in the factory location without cutting any factory wires.
check out the amp guts pic, and how it compares to the arc mini.
i laughed out loud when i took it apart!
https://5series.net/forums/topic/110...m-sub-upgrade/
whoa there is nothing in the factory amp lmao! unless it is splitting atoms it doesnt loot like it put outs much
#9
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don't know the factory amp output, but it ain't much.
check this out, its what i did to deal with the issue. i used earthquake subs and an arc audio mini in the factory location without cutting any factory wires.
check out the amp guts pic, and how it compares to the arc mini.
i laughed out loud when i took it apart!
http://forums.5serie...em-sub-upgrade/
check this out, its what i did to deal with the issue. i used earthquake subs and an arc audio mini in the factory location without cutting any factory wires.
check out the amp guts pic, and how it compares to the arc mini.
i laughed out loud when i took it apart!
http://forums.5serie...em-sub-upgrade/
How did you do it without cutting any wires? Can you show any pictures to help?
#10
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INT: I POD Intg | Trim Rings | ACS Pedals | Cobra XRS 10G
LHT: Xenon Adaptive | XENESIS Fogs| WeissLicht Plate LEDS | Door LEDS I Interior Xenon Pkg
PER: RPI Induction (Weezy) | BMC Filter | Sprint Booster V2
AUD: JL Audio
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you wouldn't need to cut any wires the amp simply unplugs from the connective harness and then is held in place in the left boot bracket on a rail by some philips screws i think which would allow you to remove it completely.