What did you do for your E61 today?
 

I have seen these threads in other forums (ie ZHPMafia, E46Fanatics, etc) and had not seen one for E61s which seem to be a nice niche vehicle, so I figured I'd start one. In other forums, these threads go huge....hopefully folks will chime in as it's fun to see what all folks do (or don't do) to their vehicles! :ph34r:

I'll start.

Not today but yesterday, I took the wheels off one by one and scrubbed the snot (brake-pad snot) out of them. Then followed up with a thorough wash and vacuum. It's my first black car in a long time (well, my wife drives a BSM ZHP 'vert but it's so small it cleans up in no time flat) so I guess I'll be back to washing it on a regular basis!

C'mon wagon owners....let's hear it!!!!!:tease:

After dropping a screw into my intake tube and damaging my bank 1-3 turbo which lead to a turbo rebuild, I learned the importance of plugging tubes/pipes while working on your car. Pliny is making sure it won't happen again.

Evan

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...o/IMG_2176.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z...o/IMG_2183.JPG

I did this for my e61 today ;)

wooboodoo, are you currently running a JB tune? I can only imagine what a stage 3 tune on a twin turbo must be like!

Evan, holy lost bolt Batman! I guess the entire driver's side front suspension has to come out to access that turbo?

BTW, how do you link photos that appear as part of the post and not a thumbnail as mine and wooboodoo's photos did?

-r

oclvframe I ordered jb4 yesterday, I hope to install it soon ;)

As about pictures open an account on photobucket, (it's free) create folder if you like to keep your pics organized, upload pic you want share, click on the pic then you'll see chain icon above the pic click on it and choose the image link copy it and paste in your thread.

Like this:

Attachment 156898

Hope it helps :)

It looks like you got the info on the photos.

The axle was removed to improve access to the v-band clamps between the DPs and turbos. It certainly helps access to the turbos too, the E6X xi is hands down the most frustrating N54 to work on, truly cruel and unusual punishment. Taking the suspension out was cake compared to some of the other parts.

Evan

Why wouldn't you get a Cobb Accessport? I don't understand why people get a piggyback nowadays, when there's the beautiful (in so many ways) Cobb AP.

6 years ago, sure, only options around were piggy's (I've been around this platform for that long), and I had a Procede, so I'm intimately familiar with what it takes to install one into the ECU compartment, but would never want to do that again, to save a few hundred $.

Ok...so same as I've done on other forums....guess I'll do that in the future. Thanks wooboodoo.

Dang Evan.....I stuck with a N52 so as to not deal with turbos...I know the turbo engine is total kick to drive but I need something I can drive for a long time and put a ton of miles on. Hopefully I'll have good luck piling on the miles on mine (yes, I know...with proper maintenance and preventative maintenance).

-r

Glowin I'm not an expert, it's my first turbo engine so I read tons of threads about Cobb and JB4 especially people who run both...
They said that JB4 works smoother, on lower boosts pulling less codes etc. etc.
All I have to do is press two buttons on the steering wheel jump on map 1 or 5 and confirm done.
My car is full stock and I don't think so I'll do any "heavy" mods like I did with my E46 in past.

RD Anti-Sway Bar installed
 

Hi to all,


Installed RD anti-sways today on my otherwise non-modded 2009 535xit.


Install took about 2 hours by a shop, wound up using Teflon tape to silence the bushings which became quite noisy after test driving. Don't know how long the tape will hold up so looking for other solutions to this aspect.


Set both front and rear on the 2nd hole. Haven't pushed it yet but driving home the car seemed quite happy with some swift lane changes on the highway. On slower roads with uneven surfaces and other irregularities the car seemed even quieter and less choppy than with the old setup.


Special thank to Norsecarnut for his advice. If any others have feedback on their installation of these bars it would be appreciated. A few pics follow.

I coded AUX-in yesterday to the MASK.
Today, I'll be removing the iDrive legal disclaimer.

Done so far (since the car was purchased ~3 weeks ago):
Wash/wax
Interior cleaning/leather care
Fixed diversity module by cleaning corrosion
Fixed passenger cupholder

Bye CCC...

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...ps20499a93.jpg

Welcome CIC... :D

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3ed5c072.jpg

Wow! How hard is it to pull all that stuff out?

I've bought a rear camera kit that displays the image on the NAV screen by attaching to a wire harness there somewhere, but have been afraid to tackle it.

Any links to DIY instructions?

To be honest isn't that hard...
There's bunch of info how to take apart dashboard or center console.
Check this video:

http://youtu.be/(null)

I'm not sure if this video gonna show up, if not type in YouTube search "BMW e60 dashboard".

Thanks. Not sure why your link doesn't work. :huh:

When I search for that phrase, I found this. It's odd that this forum doesn't let you link videos, by the way. Only links and images.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzvDYNTSpVo

Just broke down and popped in the SAT Flash... I recommend it

:twoup:


I might be bugging you for one, if that's cool.

Ya sure no problem. Takes literally less than 5 minutes to do!

Bavsound Stage 1 Speaker Upgrade( Front Doors, Rear Ceiling)
Added BMW OEM Individual Audio coaxial Center Channel speaker
Added JBL MS-8 with Technic PnP Harness

and 2 new tires thanks to a double flat..

Pic taken, before all wires cleaned up..
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m..._181104381.jpg

Thank you sir! I'll get a chance to see the beauty in person too then!

I'm guessing the SAT Flash applies to the turbo engines correct?

I took my 07 to an Indy yesterday to get a quote on doing the transfer case fluid, front/rear diffs, and tranny fluid refresh. They pulled the undercover off and we found that the front diff is leaking at the input shaft seal...so that got added to the list of things to do....dang. If the transfer case fluid wasn't such a bitch with having to drop the exhaust, I'd plan to do it myself, but I've yet to find a straight forward way to do it.

-r

bought it! ... and the window regulator died on the drive home :\

@oclvframe
SAT flash is on ecu GKE215 with a 535

finally dropped in some 20w a side angels..

Enjoying the planted handling?

I wouldn't use the 2nd hole on the front, maybe on the rear if you really haul a lot of stuff often. This isn't a race car or on a track often enough to offset the reduction in real world driving traction caused by sway bars set too stiff. Even on the softest setting the ride will be MUCH better than stock and actually safer overall that on the middles or higher. This info is from both RD and from a racing friend of mine with 20 years experience on the track in all sorts of vehicles as an instructor and competitor.

I have had NO sounds at all from mine. Did the shop use the lubricant supplied with them? Did they take care in how all the parts went together?

Month ago or so I installed the RD Sport sway bars. Loving the handling. Also installed the Oil Catch Can from Berger Motorsports. Unscrewed it today and so far it's dry, thought it might be oily!

Last week: Philips and Osram led lights for all interior lamps that come on when doors open or front center dome lamp button is engaged. Also for the "puddle" lamps under the 4 door edges. Most are W5W simple "wedge". Rear cargo hatch center lamp is a Festoon type of 43mm in length and the front footwell lights are festoon 38mm. 4000k for all as I like more of a true white to the eye, not blue looking 6000k ;) Power draw is about 1/10 of the standard incandescent bulbs! I have my car open often for various reasons.

This week: new AGM battery and several hour programming of car to set up the new battery type (old battery was lead acid, not only do you have to "register" it but the car has to be told how to charge it properly)

Also, had the roof drain on right side cleared out as water was starting to appear in battery compartment. Spare tire well with all the electronic modules was always 100% dry but supposedly that area can get wet if drains clog up worse.

Tomorrow: new summer tires. After months of research and comparing, I'm going to try the Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season "plus" which is a "low rolling resistance" tire with 700 tread wear, 70,000 mile/unlimited years wear warranty in size 245/45x18 non-run flat with full size spare. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....ll+Season+Plus

Runner up tire I wanted to try instead is the new Michelin "Premier" All Season. I'm still on the fence about it actually. I have some so far very awesome Michelins on the land rover. (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....ASXL&tab=Sizes)

I realize the treadwear warranty isn't quite as high but for spirited driving (esp. with stiffer sways) wouldn't a sportier tire be more appropriate? I am planning on putting on Michelin Pilot A/S 3s when my PS 2s wear out. They are a perfect balance of really good treadwear and awesome sport traction.

-r

Nice! You been busy! 2 questions for you. :)

For your battery, are you coding it yourself?

Lastly, to clear your drains, how are you doing it? I was going to attempt mine, but I don't think attacking it from the bottom of the tube, where it drains at the rear is the best way. Did you maybe blow compressed air in the two holes in the sunroof drain guide?

I replaced my puddle lights with ones that project the M logo, like in this pic: :D

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1382746849
.
.
.
If anyone decides to get them, make sure to get the plug and play type, like in this pic, and not the ones that just have two wires on the end.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA...dTqCux/$_1.JPG

I thought you knew WE cannot "program" this battery. It has to be done at the dealer with proper tools/software when going from lead acid to AGM. It is not the same/as simple, as changing out the same kind of previous battery. Going forward it would be simple now that the programming is done or had I replaced it with another lead acid type.

I did not do the drains either. They took apart part of the rear area to pull/access them. I think before being too clogged one might be able to use compressed air but anyway it's done and didn't cost much while it was already in the shop.

Thanks for the other option to compare.

First of all, the way this car is used, the A/S 3 is not necessary and those tires would rarely get utilized to their potential.

That A/S3 is also only an SL load rating where as the way I use my wagon it should have an XL with higher psi rating. I also like the generally stiffer sidewall of an XL.

Overall, I bet that's a great tire but I think it would also wear out much quicker. I am leaning toward the Michelin Premier now due to it's symmetrical design which will allow me to flip the tires once a year to even out the inner edge wear. I am betting the A/S 3 would only last me 30k at best due to not being able to flip the tires to even out the inner wear and the loads being carried.

I'm positive that it's doable at home I've read, as I've been gathering info on it for a bit. With the BMW software that is, like NCS whatever.

Just did a quick search and came across this for example:

Bimmerfest - BMW Forums - View Single Post - Battery Replacement in BMW E60 5 series – DIY

I know people including some forum vendors even do it remotely, with your own cable, or with theirs (that you borrow with a deposit), like this guy:

Coding Review Alex@Alpine - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums

RD Sways and Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3s, and Battery
 

Again, thanks to Norsecarnut for his advice.


For now I'm going to leave my both my sways still set to 2. Still feel a bit of understeer both in long and short corners and so far, with the limited rain we've had in Seattle - no nasty surprises. I'll update in the fall on this once we get some hydroplaning weather again.


I went from AS 2s to AS 3s (W rating) a few months ago. In my opinion they're a bit stiffer in the sidewall and also give you more feedback - which I personally like. Again, not a lot of rain so hard to judge them for wet-weather handling. My AS 2s were very good in the rain but didn't provide as much road-feel, which some might like or dislike. They also had a problem with chunking on the outside which led me to replace them. No such problems so far with the AS 3s.


Before my car went off warranty BMW replaced the battery with the new type which has been bullet proof so far. The original style battery was horrible.


Thanks to all.

e61it....I agree...I had AS3s on my Subaru Outback (mtd on 18x8 TSWs) and they were really nice riding tires. They were a good bit stiffer than the Super Sports I had on the Subaru prior to that and they seemed to be a good bit stiffer than the PS2s I have on my e61. Although very sticky, the PS2s are soft enough that I don't get some of the precise turn-in feel I had on my last e61 when it had Eagle RS-As. I would venture to guess that the AS3 will yield excellent treadwear under highway use yet offer funness when pushed into a turn. With my OB, their wet traction was great as well!

-r

Planted feel and teflon tape
 

Norsecarnut asked if I was enjoying the "planted feel" and that describes the car after the sway-bar install - perfectly.


Also, the mechanic tried a bunch of lubes, lithium, and a few others but none seemed to quiet the bars. I had read in an article that someone had used Teflon tape to good effect and that's what he wound up doing. So far, no noise at all, fingers crossed it will remain that way for a good while.

Technically this was yesterday... But I swapped out the stock intercooler/front bumper with a 7"VRSF fmic and an m5 replica front bumper. I am very satisfied with the results
Attachment 145848

On Wednesday, I had my local indy shop drain/refill my front and rear diffs, transfer case, transmission including a new pan. As part of the front diff drain/refill, they also replaced the input shaft seal that was leaking and causing my front driveshaft to sling oil. Both the front and rear diff oil services as well as the input shaft seal replacement were all DIY type items for me but the transfer case and tranny services seem daunting to me so I let them do it all at the same time. I need to nut up and try the transfer case service on the next go-round but my goal with these services was to base-line. At 34Kmi, I was no where near needing the tranny service but figured I'd do it since it's a new-to-me 7 year old car! Oil change is coming up this week...I'll do that myself for sure. Both front sway bar end-links are seeping grease so that will be on the list of to-do's at some point.

Today, though, I washed it!!!

-r

Rolled up to 40Kmi yesterday....

...celebrated with a wash while it was warm in the afternoon.

Completed swapping all of the interior lamps to Philips LED except for the directional 2nd row reading lamps which I think are nice as a warm glow if you're sitting there to read something. I just wanted all of the lamps which come on automatically with doors opening to be LED for almost no power draw when parked and packing for trips or camping.

My Land Rover makes this much simpler by allowing a feature where the interior lamps can be switched to stay off unless intentionally turned on.

The last BMW lamp to swap out was the festoon type in the lower edge of the hatch which functions both as cargo area white lens but also rear facing red when open.

Sure like the Pirelli Cinturato All Season PLUS tires. Doing well so far in lots of rain and great MPG.

Lol that's funny me too !

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psb390ce9c.jpg

Installed some LEDs on my tailgate to be used as puddle/cargo lights.

Evan

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...o/IMG_3790.JPG

That looks awesome...can you take some pictures of how you mounted the LEDs?

-r