Thoughts on a 08 535 xiT
11-30-2012, 09:51 PM
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Thoughts on a 08 535 xiT
I was thinking of buying a 08 535 xiT that has almost 90,000 miles on it. I was wondering if anyone knew if one of these cars would make it for another 100,000 miles if not more and how it is to live with as a daily driver. I would also like person reviews of the I drive system and if it is capable of handling an ipod or a headphone jack hook up.
I was also wondering if anyone knew of websites that aftermarket body kits and suspension parts can be bought on.
I was also wondering if anyone knew of websites that aftermarket body kits and suspension parts can be bought on.
12-01-2012, 11:46 AM
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My Ride: 2008 535xit
As a present owner of a 2008 535xit let me share my experiences. I purchased the car in late 2009 as a CPO with 20,000 miles on it. I now have 52,000 miles. I have had all the common problems associated with this model in particular the N54 engine (twin turbo) that it shared with the E60 and E90/E92.
50K:
- replaced both turbos due to waste gate rattle issues (common on pre 2009 models)
- walnut blasted the intake valves due to excess carbon build up (common on all N54 engines)
- replaced lower thrust arm bushings due to excessive vibration (relatively common on all E60/61 models)
- Had the battery cable recall done
All this was covered under the CPO warranty thanks to a great dealership in BMW of Encinitas (carbon build up is sometimes not cover nor are the lower thrust arm bushings).
20 -45K:
- Had the high pressure fuel pump recall done (previous owner had a problem – probably replaced already once). It has never let me down but they performed the recall.
- Some injectors were replaced as well (warranty)
- Had the sunroof weather stripping replaced under warranty due to excessive noise.
- Spark plugs replaced at my cost at BMW San Diego (around 500 way too much for this…)
- Front brake pads and rotors changed under maintenance plan
- Gear shifter replaced (AMT) under warranty – difficulty in shifting into reverse.
Aside from changing the spark plugs on my dime all the major repairs and replacements have been performed either under the CPO warranty, standard warranty or recall notices. Had I had to pay for turbo replacement myself it would have been close to 6K! The lower thrust arm bushings probably $500-600. The carbon build up will always be a common problem going forward and will probably have to be done every 30-40K ($400-600). The thrust arms probably again every 40-50K. Hoping the turbos last a lot longer… I am extremely thankful that the car was a CPO and that I have found a very fair and good dealer. However I suspect the car had more miles on it when I bought it (perhaps the dealer I purchased the car from (Nothern CA) rolled it back a bit (maybe 15K) to make it more attractive – but I will never be able to prove that).
Other areas to watch out for:
- Panoramic sunroof (standard in the US wagon) drain holes can clog and water will get into the trunk and fry major electrical systems (big bucks!!)
- X drive 4 wheel drive can be costly in the long run as well.
- Self leveling rear suspension (air) pump to fail or leak (expensive).
The car has been fun to drive and is a real sleeper given the power and decent handling it offers for a wagon and they are pretty exclusive and rare in the US. I have a great color combination black sapphire with brown/black interior, 19” M6 rep wheels and front and side M5/Mtech bumper and skirts.
I have been disappointed by the rather flexible body structure (large sunroof does not help) -the structure really can creak and flex on sloped driveways compared to a sedan but I guess that is the price to pay for more functionality.
The model was the first direct injection gas and twin turbo motor done by BMW and it seems was really a test bed… The newer N55 engine (single turbo) in the F10 has been updated to help deal with some of these issues (but apparently has much less potential for HP gains through aftermarket tunes – if you are into that). It is hard to R&D every component but really BMW clearly missed the boat on this one (High pressure fuel pump failures and lawsuits and problems). Had it been another car company with a less glorious name and following they would probably would have suffered major brand damage (remember Audi and the unintended acceleration claims from the 70's or 80’s?)
The bottome line in my opinion is that a long term warranty contract is a must for this car (and probably every BMW) if you plan on keeping the car past its normal coverage or CPO coverage. I have had many BMW’s in the past this one has been the most fragile (for lack of a better word) probably due to the complexity of it. But replacing lower thrust arm suspension bushings every 50K is just ridiculously fragile, that and the added cost of cleaning the valves in the future really unacceptable. It is a must that you get the service and repair history on the car. If you have possibility of getting an extended warranty with a car close to 90K then do it, otherwise you will probably be spending a considerable sum on repair bills.
50K:
- replaced both turbos due to waste gate rattle issues (common on pre 2009 models)
- walnut blasted the intake valves due to excess carbon build up (common on all N54 engines)
- replaced lower thrust arm bushings due to excessive vibration (relatively common on all E60/61 models)
- Had the battery cable recall done
All this was covered under the CPO warranty thanks to a great dealership in BMW of Encinitas (carbon build up is sometimes not cover nor are the lower thrust arm bushings).
20 -45K:
- Had the high pressure fuel pump recall done (previous owner had a problem – probably replaced already once). It has never let me down but they performed the recall.
- Some injectors were replaced as well (warranty)
- Had the sunroof weather stripping replaced under warranty due to excessive noise.
- Spark plugs replaced at my cost at BMW San Diego (around 500 way too much for this…)
- Front brake pads and rotors changed under maintenance plan
- Gear shifter replaced (AMT) under warranty – difficulty in shifting into reverse.
Aside from changing the spark plugs on my dime all the major repairs and replacements have been performed either under the CPO warranty, standard warranty or recall notices. Had I had to pay for turbo replacement myself it would have been close to 6K! The lower thrust arm bushings probably $500-600. The carbon build up will always be a common problem going forward and will probably have to be done every 30-40K ($400-600). The thrust arms probably again every 40-50K. Hoping the turbos last a lot longer… I am extremely thankful that the car was a CPO and that I have found a very fair and good dealer. However I suspect the car had more miles on it when I bought it (perhaps the dealer I purchased the car from (Nothern CA) rolled it back a bit (maybe 15K) to make it more attractive – but I will never be able to prove that).
Other areas to watch out for:
- Panoramic sunroof (standard in the US wagon) drain holes can clog and water will get into the trunk and fry major electrical systems (big bucks!!)
- X drive 4 wheel drive can be costly in the long run as well.
- Self leveling rear suspension (air) pump to fail or leak (expensive).
The car has been fun to drive and is a real sleeper given the power and decent handling it offers for a wagon and they are pretty exclusive and rare in the US. I have a great color combination black sapphire with brown/black interior, 19” M6 rep wheels and front and side M5/Mtech bumper and skirts.
I have been disappointed by the rather flexible body structure (large sunroof does not help) -the structure really can creak and flex on sloped driveways compared to a sedan but I guess that is the price to pay for more functionality.
The model was the first direct injection gas and twin turbo motor done by BMW and it seems was really a test bed… The newer N55 engine (single turbo) in the F10 has been updated to help deal with some of these issues (but apparently has much less potential for HP gains through aftermarket tunes – if you are into that). It is hard to R&D every component but really BMW clearly missed the boat on this one (High pressure fuel pump failures and lawsuits and problems). Had it been another car company with a less glorious name and following they would probably would have suffered major brand damage (remember Audi and the unintended acceleration claims from the 70's or 80’s?)
The bottome line in my opinion is that a long term warranty contract is a must for this car (and probably every BMW) if you plan on keeping the car past its normal coverage or CPO coverage. I have had many BMW’s in the past this one has been the most fragile (for lack of a better word) probably due to the complexity of it. But replacing lower thrust arm suspension bushings every 50K is just ridiculously fragile, that and the added cost of cleaning the valves in the future really unacceptable. It is a must that you get the service and repair history on the car. If you have possibility of getting an extended warranty with a car close to 90K then do it, otherwise you will probably be spending a considerable sum on repair bills.
12-01-2012, 03:39 PM
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My Ride: 2010 535 xi - M Sport Pkg & other goodies
Hi, a few questions for you, and a clarification... Well summarized list of typical issues, by the way.
How do you know when/if your car needs the above? Did you get codes or a check engine light?
Can you tell me when you felt the vibration and where? (just in the car, or thru the steering wheel) Ours is a 2010, with only 30,000 miles on it at the moment, and when we start her up, on cold starts, for the first minute the car vibrates quite a bit lately. It seems to go away when the car is warmed up though, or when the engine is already warm and you start it. Wonder what it could be...
It's not the drain holes in the pano roof cassette that plug actually, but rather the ends of the tubes for the rear drain holes (one tube per side), in most of the older model years, which had a funny end cap that tends to get blocked up. In my car, those end caps are missing, so maybe BMW smartened up at some point, and improved on the end caps.
It's not the drain holes in the pano roof cassette that plug actually, but rather the ends of the tubes for the rear drain holes (one tube per side), in most of the older model years, which had a funny end cap that tends to get blocked up. In my car, those end caps are missing, so maybe BMW smartened up at some point, and improved on the end caps.
12-02-2012, 12:36 AM
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I've put almost 50,000 more on mine in 2 years since I bought it. At 76,000 now I've had very few serious issues, well, none really "serious". The only thing that was very concerning was the high pressure fuel pump and it was replaced under warranty/recall. BMW is covering that item now up to 100,000 miles or so as I recall regardless of cpo.
Mine is a cpo though so I've not really been worried. I keep it up to date and have mid-cycle oil changes done just for peace of mind.
People seem to think the items in the other post above are "all the common problems" but I've yet to have all that stuff. However, I still have a 96 Land Rover Discovery running wonderfully strong and has never broken down so maybe I'm just lucky that way so far.
As for body structure, this is after all a large wagon so I do not expect it to feel stiff like a sports car. It seems perfectly great to me and I've had a number of sportier cars so it's not like I have nothing for comparison. It's a great blend of things in my opinion.
Overall I think the 90,000 mile car question is more of at what purchase price does it make sense?
Mine is a cpo though so I've not really been worried. I keep it up to date and have mid-cycle oil changes done just for peace of mind.
People seem to think the items in the other post above are "all the common problems" but I've yet to have all that stuff. However, I still have a 96 Land Rover Discovery running wonderfully strong and has never broken down so maybe I'm just lucky that way so far.
As for body structure, this is after all a large wagon so I do not expect it to feel stiff like a sports car. It seems perfectly great to me and I've had a number of sportier cars so it's not like I have nothing for comparison. It's a great blend of things in my opinion.
Overall I think the 90,000 mile car question is more of at what purchase price does it make sense?
12-02-2012, 12:39 AM
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oh, the idrive is great in the 08. bluetooth, ipod, etc, all work fine in mine. ipod or any mp3 plugs into USB socket as well as a 1/8" audio jack. phone is simply bluetooth. idrive is so incredibly easy and quick once you know how to get around.
12-02-2012, 08:24 AM
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I have a 2007 (non turbo) and I've had a few issues, clogged sunroof and soon will need to get the valve lifters replaced under cpo. Overall the car is very good and yes you can feel the softness of the chassis but it is a big wagon. Just make sure you have some $$$ on hand to fix the issues when and if they come up. Good luck and let us know if you get it.
12-02-2012, 08:34 AM
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My Ride: 2008 535xit
Hi, a few questions for you, and a clarification... Well summarized list of typical issues, by the way.
How do you know when/if your car needs the above? Did you get codes or a check engine light?
It was really just a drivability issue. The car would hesitate when accelerating hard as if it was not getting enough gas. After they cleaned them it made a huge difference in response and smoothness. It felt like a new car. As long as I have had owned it, it never drove this well. My car has always had this hesitation problem even at 20K, The engine had a cold vibration problem at start up shortly after I purchased it. The dealer at the time changed a few injectors that cured the problem but the hesitation was always there. I just learned to accept it. Now it is gone.
Can you tell me when you felt the vibration and where? (just in the car, or thru the steering wheel) Ours is a 2010, with only 30,000 miles on it at the moment, and when we start her up, on cold starts, for the first minute the car vibrates quite a bit lately. It seems to go away when the car is warmed up though, or when the engine is already warm and you start it. Wonder what it could be...
I had a steering wheel and body vibration regardless of when it was hot or cold. It was really road surface dependent. Certain highway surfaces made it worse at speeds above 60. The 19" rims made it more pronounced. The bushings are fluid filled and mine had leaked out a while ago, they did not seem fully cracked but the dealer got it covered under the CPO warranty anyway. After they replaced the bushings it was smooth. Your problem sounds like tire flat spots from overnight sitting.
It's not the drain holes in the pano roof cassette that plug actually, but rather the ends of the tubes for the rear drain holes (one tube per side), in most of the older model years, which had a funny end cap that tends to get blocked up. In my car, those end caps are missing, so maybe BMW smartened up at some point, and improved on the end caps.
How do you know when/if your car needs the above? Did you get codes or a check engine light?
It was really just a drivability issue. The car would hesitate when accelerating hard as if it was not getting enough gas. After they cleaned them it made a huge difference in response and smoothness. It felt like a new car. As long as I have had owned it, it never drove this well. My car has always had this hesitation problem even at 20K, The engine had a cold vibration problem at start up shortly after I purchased it. The dealer at the time changed a few injectors that cured the problem but the hesitation was always there. I just learned to accept it. Now it is gone.
Can you tell me when you felt the vibration and where? (just in the car, or thru the steering wheel) Ours is a 2010, with only 30,000 miles on it at the moment, and when we start her up, on cold starts, for the first minute the car vibrates quite a bit lately. It seems to go away when the car is warmed up though, or when the engine is already warm and you start it. Wonder what it could be...
I had a steering wheel and body vibration regardless of when it was hot or cold. It was really road surface dependent. Certain highway surfaces made it worse at speeds above 60. The 19" rims made it more pronounced. The bushings are fluid filled and mine had leaked out a while ago, they did not seem fully cracked but the dealer got it covered under the CPO warranty anyway. After they replaced the bushings it was smooth. Your problem sounds like tire flat spots from overnight sitting.
It's not the drain holes in the pano roof cassette that plug actually, but rather the ends of the tubes for the rear drain holes (one tube per side), in most of the older model years, which had a funny end cap that tends to get blocked up. In my car, those end caps are missing, so maybe BMW smartened up at some point, and improved on the end caps.
Don't get me wrong I enjoy the car, I just have been rather disappointed with some of the major problems that have surfaced.
12-02-2012, 08:47 AM
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Sorry for the repost, my previous post was mixed up with yours and hard to read (New forum style)
It was really just a drivability issue. The car would hesitate when accelerating hard as if it was not getting enough gas. After they cleaned them it made a huge difference in response and smoothness. It felt like a new car. As long as I have had owned it, it never drove this well. My car has always had this hesitation problem even at 20K, The engine had a cold vibration problem at start up shortly after I purchased it. The dealer at the time changed a few injectors that cured the problem but the hesitation was always there. I just learned to accept it. Now it is gone.
had a steering wheel and body vibration regardless of when it was hot or cold. It was really road surface dependent. Certain highway surfaces made it worse at speeds above 60. The 19" rims made it more pronounced. The bushings are fluid filled and mine had leaked out a while ago, they did not seem fully cracked but the dealer got it covered under the CPO warranty anyway. After they replaced the bushings it was smooth. Your problem sounds like tire flat spots from overnight sitting.
It is important to clean the drain hole lines on a regular bases (with high pressure air) as even the revised drain plugs can still get clogged up.
Don't get me wrong I enjoy the car, I just have been rather disappointed with some of the major problems that have surfaced.
It was really just a drivability issue. The car would hesitate when accelerating hard as if it was not getting enough gas. After they cleaned them it made a huge difference in response and smoothness. It felt like a new car. As long as I have had owned it, it never drove this well. My car has always had this hesitation problem even at 20K, The engine had a cold vibration problem at start up shortly after I purchased it. The dealer at the time changed a few injectors that cured the problem but the hesitation was always there. I just learned to accept it. Now it is gone.
had a steering wheel and body vibration regardless of when it was hot or cold. It was really road surface dependent. Certain highway surfaces made it worse at speeds above 60. The 19" rims made it more pronounced. The bushings are fluid filled and mine had leaked out a while ago, they did not seem fully cracked but the dealer got it covered under the CPO warranty anyway. After they replaced the bushings it was smooth. Your problem sounds like tire flat spots from overnight sitting.
It is important to clean the drain hole lines on a regular bases (with high pressure air) as even the revised drain plugs can still get clogged up.
Don't get me wrong I enjoy the car, I just have been rather disappointed with some of the major problems that have surfaced.
12-02-2012, 10:21 PM
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That is really funny! I don't think his tires are having "flat spots" from sitting overnight. It's not like he lives in International Falls.
12-03-2012, 10:49 AM
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What?????? No joke intended. Let me rephrase: If a car is left too long in the same place the area where the tire touches the ground (contact patch) can become rigid and a "flat spot" can develop - especially if the tire is under inflated. You know what I mean. I've had Continental tires with this problem...
He described a vibration that he feels when driving his car from a cold start up which goes away when he drives it for a while. I am assuming he is talking about a vibration he feels in the steering wheel because he made reference to my post about replacing the thrust arm bushings. If this is engine related it could be injectors (I had that) or possible carbon build up on the intake valves.
Just sharing my experiences not making jokes
He described a vibration that he feels when driving his car from a cold start up which goes away when he drives it for a while. I am assuming he is talking about a vibration he feels in the steering wheel because he made reference to my post about replacing the thrust arm bushings. If this is engine related it could be injectors (I had that) or possible carbon build up on the intake valves.
Just sharing my experiences not making jokes