standart stereo upgrade to HiFi
Members
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 13
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From: California
dieseltouring -- What tweeters did you purchase? Just the BWM factory tweeters from a Logic 7 system, or did you buy from another manufacturer?
Hi Karman,
The tweeters are easy. They come with flying leads and plugs which simply connect to sockets that are already on the back of the standard door mid speakers.
To fit amps and drive the under-seat subs and door speakers from these, you will need to get to the back of the CCC unit in the dash and break into the speaker connections that come out . Cable kits are available online to help with this. As I said before, there are no low level signal outputs from the standard CCC, so you have to buy amps that can take in speaker level signals.
If you are not comfortable cutting into your existing speaker wiring harness, then I suggest just doing the tweeters, which alone make a huge difference that is worth having.
Good luck.
The tweeters are easy. They come with flying leads and plugs which simply connect to sockets that are already on the back of the standard door mid speakers.
To fit amps and drive the under-seat subs and door speakers from these, you will need to get to the back of the CCC unit in the dash and break into the speaker connections that come out . Cable kits are available online to help with this. As I said before, there are no low level signal outputs from the standard CCC, so you have to buy amps that can take in speaker level signals.
If you are not comfortable cutting into your existing speaker wiring harness, then I suggest just doing the tweeters, which alone make a huge difference that is worth having.
Good luck.
Members
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: NJ, USA
Hi,
The standard stereo CCC does not have low signal outputs, so coding will not help to achieve an upgrade. As you have already said, many upgrade by fitting tweeters in the door (80% improvement) and then adding an amp and better (Earthquake) subs under the seats. The tweeters and amp both take their input from the speaker outputs from the CCC, so the car is no wiser and needs no coding changes.
I have:
Tweeters in the doors and roof (I have a touring)
Earthquake subs
Logic 7 mid dooor speakers
Amps for both the door mids and subs
Sounds amazing and all looks totally stock.
The standard stereo CCC does not have low signal outputs, so coding will not help to achieve an upgrade. As you have already said, many upgrade by fitting tweeters in the door (80% improvement) and then adding an amp and better (Earthquake) subs under the seats. The tweeters and amp both take their input from the speaker outputs from the CCC, so the car is no wiser and needs no coding changes.
I have:
Tweeters in the doors and roof (I have a touring)
Earthquake subs
Logic 7 mid dooor speakers
Amps for both the door mids and subs
Sounds amazing and all looks totally stock.
Members
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Hi,
To try to answer the questions:
The Blaupunkt THA amplifiers are auto-sensing and do not need a remote wire to turn them on and off. You just power them direct from the battery (through a fuse, obviously).
I spliced the existing door speaker wires to feed both amps and then ran new wires from the sub amp to the under seat subs. The old sub wiring is sitting in the car redundant.
I used the Logic 7 tweeters. They are called Top HiFi in the BMW parts list. Part number B65.13.6.978.631. Some say that you can buy better silk tweeters (The BMW ones are aluminium domes), but they sound brilliant to me.
Sorry, I have some (alarming) pictures of the dash in bits, but the tweeters were so easy, I didn't take any photos. There are several how-to's on here about removing door cards. The roof speaker covers simply unclip and then it's 2 screws.
To try to answer the questions:
The Blaupunkt THA amplifiers are auto-sensing and do not need a remote wire to turn them on and off. You just power them direct from the battery (through a fuse, obviously).
I spliced the existing door speaker wires to feed both amps and then ran new wires from the sub amp to the under seat subs. The old sub wiring is sitting in the car redundant.
I used the Logic 7 tweeters. They are called Top HiFi in the BMW parts list. Part number B65.13.6.978.631. Some say that you can buy better silk tweeters (The BMW ones are aluminium domes), but they sound brilliant to me.
Sorry, I have some (alarming) pictures of the dash in bits, but the tweeters were so easy, I didn't take any photos. There are several how-to's on here about removing door cards. The roof speaker covers simply unclip and then it's 2 screws.
Thread Starter
Members
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Latvia
My Ride: BMW E61 530d
Hi,
To try to answer the questions:
The Blaupunkt THA amplifiers are auto-sensing and do not need a remote wire to turn them on and off. You just power them direct from the battery (through a fuse, obviously).
I spliced the existing door speaker wires to feed both amps and then ran new wires from the sub amp to the under seat subs. The old sub wiring is sitting in the car redundant.
I used the Logic 7 tweeters. They are called Top HiFi in the BMW parts list. Part number B65.13.6.978.631. Some say that you can buy better silk tweeters (The BMW ones are aluminium domes), but they sound brilliant to me.
Sorry, I have some (alarming) pictures of the dash in bits, but the tweeters were so easy, I didn't take any photos. There are several how-to's on here about removing door cards. The roof speaker covers simply unclip and then it's 2 screws.
To try to answer the questions:
The Blaupunkt THA amplifiers are auto-sensing and do not need a remote wire to turn them on and off. You just power them direct from the battery (through a fuse, obviously).
I spliced the existing door speaker wires to feed both amps and then ran new wires from the sub amp to the under seat subs. The old sub wiring is sitting in the car redundant.
I used the Logic 7 tweeters. They are called Top HiFi in the BMW parts list. Part number B65.13.6.978.631. Some say that you can buy better silk tweeters (The BMW ones are aluminium domes), but they sound brilliant to me.
Sorry, I have some (alarming) pictures of the dash in bits, but the tweeters were so easy, I didn't take any photos. There are several how-to's on here about removing door cards. The roof speaker covers simply unclip and then it's 2 screws.
Contributors
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Turin , Italy
Hi. in addition to previous suggestions , consider this :
http://www.audison.eu/index_main.php?Section=BITONE
http://www.audison.eu/index_main.php?Section=BITONE
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