NavarroOne

As an update on the project, I've ordered the following at a dealer in Hamburg:

65-13-6-978-631 Top Hifi loudspeaker tweeter - two pieces EUR 121
65-13-9-143-121 Top Hifi mid-range loudspeaker - two pieces EUR 129

That's Eur 250 for better sound up front and I hope it makes a difference. Will be sure to let you know how easy/hard it was and what my subjective impression of the audio quality is, once I'm done which is hopefully within the next two weeks, after the parts have arrived.

NavarroOne

Please let me know if you know of an easy way to install subs and amp, whether stock bmw or sws-8, which doesn't require major coding or rewiring work. I'd still like it done but I'm a bit spooked at the viability, having read "Technic"'s input

Rasmus

I am really looking forward to pictures, guides and most of all... How does the sound differ from your current setup?!

Keep it up!

Technic

I think that you should take a look at this DIY for an E61 and use the same speaker kit: http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktio...hmentId=683775

To make those speakers PnP to your existing OEM connectors -and meet most of your criteria of an "OEM upgrade"- you should use the following connectors P/N:

- speaker housings: 61138373583 (front/rear speakers, one each)
- speaker housing pins: 61130005198 (2 pins per housing)
- woofer housing: 61136901731 (one per woofer)
- woofer housing pins: 61138364835 (2 per housing)

It will be easier, cheaper and definitely will sound better than what you have right now and than buying OEM speakers, especially if you add just a 4-channel amp to drive the front and the underseat woofers. A 6-channel amp will be perfect if your budget permits. If you do not want to be cutting, splicing or tapping any OEM wires then you will need an iDrive harness to add the amp, PM for details.

I don't exactly what output configuration your iDrive has (4 outputs or 6 outputs) for this 6-speaker Stereo system, but definitely it will have a heavy equalized output signal just because it does not have any tweeters so it has to compensate in EQ those highs thru the mids. That could mean that adding a component set may make the new tweeters sound somewhat overwhelmed unless the crossover in that component set is adjustable in tweeter output.

You can use that signal as it is or use a processor to make it flat and then use amplifiers. It all depends on what you like and what you want to do.

NavarroOne

hm, that came 1 day too late I'm afraid. I've ordered the Logic7 tweeter and mid-range for the door. Meantime I've ordered a set of Earthquake SWS-8 subwoofers, pared to an Earthquake TNT T1000W2 amp. I plan to plug the amp into one of the rear roof mounted speakers, with a remote on-off wire coupled to the cigarette lighter outlet in the boot area.

In case anyone know of a pictorial dealing with a similar install, please let me know.

Technic

The roof mounted sppeakers are high passed (approximately 150Hz and above). You need to tap the underseat woofers input wires to get bass response (150Hz and below) out of that TNT amp. The OEM remote wire is pin 13 at the back of the iDrive computer.

Rasmus

Hi technic.... Very nice post! Have you tried it yourself?

NavarroOne

are you sure this applies specifically to my european base 6-speaker setup?

Technic

Just try it...

If you are going to install the SWS-8 anyways then -just for convenience sake- you can tap those wires at the same time. At least there will be no doubt that the signal in those particular wires has bass content, something that cannot be said of the rear speakers.

NavarroOne

I will, and guess that means running 2 sets of wires between amp and each sub - but that shouldnt be twice the work.

discussing sws-8 on a seperate thread where one member added a 4mm spacer when he installed them. any idea whether that is required or just cream on top?