Rear hatch acting strange
#1
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My Ride: 2006 530xiTouring
Rear hatch acting strange
Ok, so my rear hatch is unlocking when I start the car. I have to close it when the car is on, or it won't latch also. I believe it gives me a "high battery drain" message also.
I have read a lot about this and I think this is the rear hatch servo lock thing acting up. Does this seem like a symptom to others?
Just looking for some feedback if i decide to replace it, the parts only 70 bucks.
Thanks
I have read a lot about this and I think this is the rear hatch servo lock thing acting up. Does this seem like a symptom to others?
Just looking for some feedback if i decide to replace it, the parts only 70 bucks.
Thanks
#3
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Location: Polk City, FL USA
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My Ride: 2001 M5, 2010 e61 / 535iXT Automatic
Model Year: 2001, 2010
Alpha,
Not trying to be snickety but two things;
1. Ensure nothing is keeping the tailgate from closing. Our rear mat had a tendency to ride backward and occasionally the lip would keep the latch from latching.
High battery drain makes the cars do weird things. Get the battery fully charged up and see if it still happens.
That's my two sense, the other thing is to check the strut mount ball on the liftgate itself. If the connection there is loose, the tailgate might not latch and will relift itself. Conversely, sometimes it won't open....
Ok... that was three things...
Not trying to be snickety but two things;
1. Ensure nothing is keeping the tailgate from closing. Our rear mat had a tendency to ride backward and occasionally the lip would keep the latch from latching.
High battery drain makes the cars do weird things. Get the battery fully charged up and see if it still happens.
That's my two sense, the other thing is to check the strut mount ball on the liftgate itself. If the connection there is loose, the tailgate might not latch and will relift itself. Conversely, sometimes it won't open....
Ok... that was three things...
#4
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My Ride: E61 525i 2005, F11 528i 2012
Model Year: 2012
I had the same thing. You should check the following things:
1). Cabling of the rear hatch. If one of the wires is cut and touches metal it opens the hatch.
2). If it is the glass hatch, check the button. They can wear fast and have a loose contact shorting and opening the glass hatch
3). What was previously said, the attachments struts can wear out and there is a sensor attached on the left one (looking from behind). Check the connection.
In many cases (also in mine) it was the cables which were damaged.
1). Cabling of the rear hatch. If one of the wires is cut and touches metal it opens the hatch.
2). If it is the glass hatch, check the button. They can wear fast and have a loose contact shorting and opening the glass hatch
3). What was previously said, the attachments struts can wear out and there is a sensor attached on the left one (looking from behind). Check the connection.
In many cases (also in mine) it was the cables which were damaged.
#5
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My suggestion is to only lift the hatch when absolutely necessary. Pop the glass to access what you need to mitigate wear and tear on this badly designed hatch.
#6
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Thank you everyone for your response. I think i have figured out that i will need to do a replacement of the wiring.
1. Its the rear window that pops open when you put it in gear
2. no rear wiper or wash
3. no rear defrost.
4. the whole hatch does not lift correctly or close, but i have determined that the hydraulic fluid is really low, and will have to make sure its full before determining if anything else is faulty pertaining to the hydraulics. I found many walkthroughs on filling the reservoir and have the fluid coming
Everything else works back there!
Thanks again!
1. Its the rear window that pops open when you put it in gear
2. no rear wiper or wash
3. no rear defrost.
4. the whole hatch does not lift correctly or close, but i have determined that the hydraulic fluid is really low, and will have to make sure its full before determining if anything else is faulty pertaining to the hydraulics. I found many walkthroughs on filling the reservoir and have the fluid coming
Everything else works back there!
Thanks again!
Last edited by Alpha Trion; 10-19-2017 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Typos
#7
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My Ride: 2001 M5, 2010 e61 / 535iXT Automatic
Model Year: 2001, 2010
Aalpha Trion -- I have a fully function hydraulic strut unit (the one that opens the hatchgate) that I c/would sell you rather than the $800 price than a brand new one. The only thing wrong is the ball socket -- which you could take off of your old hydraulic unit.
HOPEFULLY, just putting in hydraulic fluid will solve your problem, but if not, ping me.
HOPEFULLY, just putting in hydraulic fluid will solve your problem, but if not, ping me.
#8
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Aalpha Trion -- I have a fully function hydraulic strut unit (the one that opens the hatchgate) that I c/would sell you rather than the $800 price than a brand new one. The only thing wrong is the ball socket -- which you could take off of your old hydraulic unit.
HOPEFULLY, just putting in hydraulic fluid will solve your problem, but if not, ping me.
HOPEFULLY, just putting in hydraulic fluid will solve your problem, but if not, ping me.
#10
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My Ride: 2008 535xi Wagon
I used this fluid - ACDelco 10-5041 Power Liftgate Hydraulic Fluid - 1 qt
I'm not sure if it is the BMW recommended stuff, but was recommended by the post I read on how to re-fill it.
I'm not sure if it is the BMW recommended stuff, but was recommended by the post I read on how to re-fill it.